Constabulary
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Posts posted by Constabulary
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It does not boost answers when you post the same question in different forum sections. Stick to the Sewing Machine section.
But since the sewline 106r rpl (never heard of it before) is not wide spread as it seems you may not get many answers. Maybe its a clone of another machine so I would look for info on that machine instead.
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Well done Boris - Brexit was a great idea for your people and to keep them away from buying "foreign goods" they cannot buy in country. Wondering how many Breixteers were not not aware of this when voting for the leave.
So the thresholds for customs duty liability will it be like before, right?
- Value up to £15 Import - pay no VAT & no Customs Duty
- Value over £15 up to £135 - pay Import VAT but no Customs Duty
- Value over £135 - pay Import VAT + Customs DutySo Vat is one thing but how will the UK handle custom duty? Do they want the seller to collect them as well. I cannot imagine that. And when the customs already charge the custom duty then why not the VAT? Or is the exception (where sellers have to collect VAT) only the amount between 15 and 135 GBP where they do not charge custom duty?
And Boris wants this to be handled by the seller of goods? Excellent idea. Pretty sure a lot of small business are not willing to do that and will no longer sell to the UK.
And beside of that - how will the UK control this. Will packages go through the customs again and they ask for an invoice showing a valid Vat number and the amount of tax and vat? I think so, right? And what happens when there is no proper invoice (for what ever reason f.i. foreign seller was not aware of the changes) - will they deny the package and it will be returned to sender?
Just recently I had tow cases where a customer form the US bought something from me on Ebay and Ebay or Paypal has charged HIM a small amount of fees. They first put that money on my account and then Paypal takes it from me. So that does not bother and IMO makes sense.
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And what in particular did not fit? The needle into the holder or the parts?
If the 112w139 gauge set needle holder is dedicated for 126x3 needles and 135x17 do not fit I would try a needle holder from a Singer 212 needle feed machine. They for sure take 135x17 as they have the same shank diameter as the original needle system and as mentioned before maybe changing out the needle bar as well. Thats at least what I would try.
A while ago I played with gauge sets a little bit. Maybe some is interested:
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From your list and without knowing details of either machine I would most likely choose the Consew 227.
Is 227 all you know or is it possibly a 227R?
The Singer in your picture is a 51w as it seems but cannot ID the subclass. The roller foot is good for sewing shoe uppers. Machine has a rather short stitch length but that may depend on the subclass.
Here is a 51w manual that is close but not the same subclass I´d say, but maybe it helps:
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4.1mm is a very good score for a machines of this type and age. When you increase the foot lift and decrease the foot pressure it may improve the stitch length a little bit.
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IMO - no it´s not.
I also have no felt on my hook (its just missing) I put a drip of oi in the bobbin case race from time to time - no problems. On hooks of other brands there is no oil felt as well.
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agree with chrisash.
1 hour ago, JClif88 said:Reduced Gubbins - maybe true but lots of fiddling attaching it to the machine (depends a bit on your skills) if it is not a dedicated motor and it for sure is not.
no need for a synchronizer - yes, if you really need one - many do not - I don´t.
no belt losses - overrated IMO on a light duty machine like this.
belt wear - overrated, how often do you change a V- Belt? 1x in 5 year or 10 year or maybe never.
and a lihter table overall - Lighter table? Not sure how much difference that is maybe 1-2KG or so? How often do you move your table that this matters?
my 2 cents
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Looks like machine has no reverse if that matters (short slot in scale plate) stitch length should be indicated on the stitch length scale (ask for a picture). Yeah looks like wheel feed. Expect a rather short stitch length cause on shoe upper you do not need a long stitch most of the time (maybe 2-3.5mm - check your own shoes) but it´s just a guess.
Here is something about the 34 class (does not cover all sub classes!!!) maybe it helps a little bit.
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Why a direct drive motor and not a standard under table mount motor? I´m sure that would cause less trouble.
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I have one - send me your email by PM and I´ll send you the PDF.
EDIT:
To be fair - the file I have once came form LW Member UWE. I guess he don´t mind if I send it to you.
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I now see you mentioned inner foot, seems I overlooked this - my bad, sorry! Mine is for the outer foot.
Optional Seiko STW 8:
https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/10708-vis-de-barre-de-pression-seiko-origine.html
Or a thumb screw 7/32 x 32 (see 2nd picture)
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Yes, I have the screw
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I think I have one... let me check...
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I run 2 Jack Servos with 750w. One on a 111G156 with 1:3 speed reducer. No problems since 2014. The 111G155 / 156 machines have safety clutches if something goes wrong but generally you cannot overpower these machines. The safety clutch will not release just because of a higher power motor you need a resistance like needle hitting a hard spot in the material or the needle plate or at the hooks thread has accumulated a bird nest and blocks it but other than that you motor will run without problems. I sew really hard cotton webbing. BTW - I never have released my safety clutch. At slow speed you rather hear the motor knurling when sewing hard material but again the safety clutch never released. Thats at least my experience.
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1 hour ago, Gymnast said:
just looked at motors from some suppliers in Europe, and I agree that it is hard to find the brushed DC motors. Almost all servo motors sold in Europe seems to be of the brushless type. I found one supplier in the UK via ebay with a brushed DC motor:
I guess it will work like the Family motor Wizcrafts suggested.
Look at that - so I better shut up
But 0 is off, right? And next step is 350 or is there an acceleration ramp between 0 and 350 when the knob is on 0?
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A fairly cheap cobbler / leather finishing machine in northern Germany (no mine).
https://www.ebay.de/itm/193741093791
Maybe something for our members in the UK or the Netherlands. You need space of course but maybe worth traveling... Seller even takes Paypal.
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yes but afaik the Family sew motors are not available on our sides of the pond (meaning EU and UK) and in 230V but I may be wrong.
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4-5 inches too short, really? Mismeasured, miscut or forgot the buckle end fold or all together? Or what do you think what happened? Leather does not shrink 4-5 inches all of a sudden.
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Most "cheap" servos start at 200-300 rpm and have a 70mm pulley. To slow down the motor far enough you may install a larger hand wheel instead of a speed reducer. I do not know of any "cheap" (meaning 100-200€ / GBP range) servo motor in the EU hemisphere that is extremely slow at the start and has a good amount of torque at slow speed. Not saying there is none but I do not know of any. The addition of a 40-50mm motor pulley + a larger hand wheel or a speed reducer is almost mandatory I´d say. I don't want to got without a SR - I have them on all my machines. Much more comfortable!
Maybe the HoShing series is what you need but I have no experience with them.
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Often industrial sewing machines share parts across the brands so it could be that this binder setup probably works for your machine as well:
Or a set incl correct presser feet:
EDIT:
just noticed your machine is mentioned in the description (see 1st link)
EDIT II
regarding raised binder plates - you only need a raised needle plate on vertical hook machines (like Singer 111) because the hook or bobbin case opener are in the way and therefore you cannot install a plate with a "sunk" binder. Horizontal hook machines like yours have needle plates as shown above where binder is sunk because there are no parts in the way that could come in interference with the binder.
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8 hours ago, dikman said:
Bargain!!
2nd
its a machine from the 1960s (and onward) - so a relatively new one.
I have a good clear 111G156 (same machine but with reverse) manual if you want it send me your email address by PN
Lots of timing values in it, basically all you need.
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This is a Juki 562 FP from College Sewing:
https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/b3101-053-000-face-plate-juki-genuine.html
This is one from Ebay (cheapest I could find incl. shipping )
Both will work cause the 562 is a clone of the Singer 111. Not sure if the Ebay plate will fit perfectly cause it is an aftermarket part but still the best option I think.
EDIT:
Looks like CS has the plate on back order.
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not sure which face plate you need. Needle feed and triple feed plates area bit different, I may have a face plate for the needle feed version and the screw as well but have to look for them.
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College Sewing in the UK has all parts. If you cannot find them in the Singer section check the Juki 562 / 563 or Seiko STW or LSW series machines. Lots of Seiko, and Juki parts are compatible. Thats the big advantage of vintage Singer machines.
https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/10707-vis-de-regulation-seiko-origine.html
https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/224144-attachment-slide-plate-front-singer-212.html
Face plate for the 111 or 112?
https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/210911-singer-112g-112w-212w-face-plate.html
If you cannot find the parts search for the the parts number and if that does nor help send CS an Email, they respond soon.
Ebay - YOUR personal data they share (and sell I guess)
in Computer Help
Posted
Just figured (at least on my end) I once set all to NO and now checking back they are all set on YES again! Interesting!