JeffChastain

So, I've got a fellow that wants a holster for a Kimber Ultra Carry, but I can't find any blue guns for it. Anyone know what other 1911 blueguns would be suitable to substitute? Thanks.

Quick question, besides length, are the XD40 and XD 45 the same, width wise?

Many, many thanks for the insight Katsass and $$hobby. I appreciate that you guys take the time to go into detail for a new guy. I will be taking your advice. My next purchase will be a diamond awl. Recommendation on size?

I was wondering how you guy about forming and boning the front of a holster, but leaving the back flat for a more comfortable carry? I'm sure you have to leave extra leather on the front piece to make this happen, but is there a formula to figure out how much bigger to cut the front piece? Thanks! I plan on starting to build mag holsters, and it seems like they'd be alot nicer OWB with a flat back.

Hey Katsass, Thanks for the reply. I am actually using a stitch groover, and running over my grooves twice to get it a little deeper. I think you're on to something about the holes I've drilled being a bit too big. I think that's why the stitching looks raised, because the holes aren't holding the stitches tight. Right now I'm grooving the front, but not the backside, because I haven't been completely successful in getting the holes to line up perfectly on the back. If I'm going to continue drilling, I need to use my drill press to ensure straight holes. I've been thinking of trying out an Awl. I've not used one yet mainly because it seems like it is very time consuming. But, if it will make the holsters look better, it has to be worth it. Thanks for giving me a step by step on how to get it done, also. You've been a big help in both threads I've posted. Attached is a picture of the finished product, minus the top coat. Still waiting for the dye to dry. I used Eco Flo Dark Cocoa brown. It's way closer to black than brown.

So, I started my second holster with proper tooling leather. (I made a few with Tandy farmer's bundle leather before I realized I was extremely wrong) I made myself some boning tools by cutting up one of those plastic cutting boards, and sanding down the edges into shapes I thought were useful. I used a Ruger SR40C for this holster. The particular firearm doesn't have particularly deep lines on it, so I decided to bone this one differently from my last, and it came out better than I expected. There are a few noticable boo-boo's, but overall I'm pleased. Also, the stitches don't look near as terrible as this picture shows them. I took this pic with my Ipod. But, my stitches aren't as clean as I want them to be, by a long shot. When I back stitch, it always looks bad in that area. I'm using artificial sinew, and I can't seem to get the backstitch to hold very tight. Should I be using something different? Also, what's the secret to getting extremely clean handstitched lines? There's something I'm missing. I've got thick skin, and critiques are why I posted this. I want to get better! Thanks guys. Also, I realize the firearm isn't molded very straight in the pocket. This little pistol is thicker than what I'm used to molding, so I gave it some extra room in the stitch lines, and I think I gave it a little too much wiggle room. I didn't notice when I began boning that the firearm was sitting a little crooked. If you'll look in the bottom right hand corner under the trigger guard area you'll see what I mean about my back-stitching looking rough.

hah! If you start making top hats like Renegade described, I want two of them.

Thanks for the replies, fellows. Renegade- I'm designing my own patterns also, but I was thinking a pattern book would help me focus on the fundamentals while I'm still figuring this all out. Thanks for posting your process. I've read alot of processes, and I think the one you follow has been one of the better ones I've read. Now to apply the steps. particle, I think it adds character to the holster, also. By the way, I was over at another forum,and happened to come across some posts of yours when you first started out. If I can progress that much and become that good in the same timeframe as you, I will consider myself a great success, even if I never made a dime.

So, I made myself some crude, but smooth boning tools out of a plastic cutting board. I fashioned them out of pictures of boning tools here on the internet. I was able to get a thin edge that was very smooth, and not thin enough to cut the leather, but it seems like my leather is burnishing quickly. The only reference I have on boning are particles videos, and he has dyed his holsters before he bones them, so I can't tell if he's burnishing the leather quickly or not. Will most of the burnish be hidden once I dye? Also, do any of you know of a pattern book for medium framed auto holsters? I find alot for 1911's, but that's really all. Thanks for reading, and looking forward to your insight!

Thanks for all the info, everyone. I've learned alot just from posting this one thread. Now, to get better at making them!

Thanks for responding, particle. I reckon I should look for one of those. I've been pressing the butt of my edging tool into the trigger guard area. Thanks, Dickf. I'm going to try a more traditional OWB pattern tomorrow, and I'm hoping it'll look alot better than this one does. Also, I decided to punch out slots on this one. The stitching around the slots definitely look like an afterthought. But, I'm fairly happy with the first attempt on real tooling leather. Particle, one more question and I swear I'll stop picking your brain. In your videos, is that a single oblong tool to punch out belt slots?

Thanks for the link, Jake. Those are alot cheaper than I had expected. I bought a tooling kit a bit ago, and figured out quickly that tooling is harder than it looks. I can't decide if I want to put belt loops on this for IWB, or if I want to punch out slots for OWB. If I did it OWB, I could tool on the wings a little. I noticed in particles video where he is boning the 1911 avenger that he uses the pear shader to work the trigger guard area. What I didn't notice is, is that pear shader smooth on the bottom? The only pear shader that I have is textured.

Okay, got it dyed. I think it looks better. As katsass stated, I know the first picture made the stitching look rough. It's not as bad as it seemed. I do think it needs more stitching though. Looks pretty bare. dyed holster

I really like those belt loops on the safeguard IWB. I notice all your belt loops are stitched. Are they lined on the underside?

Thanks mojoe, I've actually kept up with this guy for some time. particle, I've watched all of your videos. Probably the best how-to videos I've seen on youtube, bud. Thanks for posting them. I refer to them alot. The (i think) second video where you airbrush the holster blows me away. Instantly makes it a have-to-have piece. I don't know why I didn't look for a boning tool while I was at Tandy. I bought a few tools, and forgot a boning tool and a stitch wheel. I really appreciate all the pointers, guys. I've kept up with Adams Leatherworks and katsass for a few months now. I'm glad you guys posted with some advice.

Thanks for the info, josh. I think what I'm going to do to mold the tips of the tools is use a torch to make the plastic soft, which will also have an effect like polishing it, mold it while soft, then do a gradual sand ending at a very fine sandpaper. Sound like that'll do the trick? I've been asking around trying to find some antler. You'd think living in Alabama someone I know would have some laying around. Gonna keep checking. Thanks again for sharing some knowledge. I learned from boning this holster, and I hope my next one will be bounds better. I dyed it earlier, and it actually looks pretty decent. I will post a picture when it's fully dry.

Hey Josh, thanks for taking a look. I actually went out and got a small plastic-type cutting board today that's about a foot long, and somewhere close to a half inch thick. I thought maybe I could cut it into strips, and sand the ends into different thickness and shapes for boning. Think that'll do a better job than sharpies and edger handles? It's an IWB without the attachments added. I guess I made up this shape, trying to re-invent the stone I reckon. The ears don't seem too popular, haha! I've made one like this out of hobby lobby leather that wouldn't really tool or mold well, but I wear it, and the way that holster feels and wears is better than the crossbreed I purchased a while back. I do believe my next design will be more traditional than this. Thanks again, Josh.

Why is my boning not as crisp as others I've seen here?

Thanks for the advice and for checking it out, guys. Katsass, Renegade, Jake, I actually was looking into springfield leather co, but happened to sell a guitar and end up with cold hard cash in my hand, and there's a Tandy store an hour from my house. I'm not a patient person. :/ The clerk at Tandy actually also told me that once I tried Herman Oak or Wickett and Craig that I wouldn't be back to buy leather from him, but I paid 2.99 per sq. ft. for this stuff, and it isn't all that bad. Usable for sure. Katsass, you were talking about the belly leather stretching over a period of time. Are you suspecting that's what I've gotten here? The guy told me they were single shoulders, but we know how salespeople can be. On the molding and boning, you've all said it looks okay for a first shot. Can you give me pointers? Can you point out what is good and bad about the boning I did? Thanks a bunch, fellows!

Sorry about that. Not familiar with the site yet. There's a photobucket link at the beginning of the post now.

holsterHey guys. Been scouring through this forum for the past few months, learning a ton, and trying out alot of stuff too. I've been making holsters for about a month now, but I've been using cheap drum dyed leather from Hobby Lobby, and that stuff doesn't mold or tool. I went to Tandy yesterday and picked up some good leather. Caught a good sale and got a nearly 20 feet for 55 dollars. Anyhow, I sat down tonight, made a holster, and proceeded to actually mold and bone it. I learned alot during the process. Spent about 30 minutes molding and boning. Used the handle of my edge beveler, and a sharpie. What do you guys use to mold and bone, besides your fingers? I'm attaching a picture, and I'd like some honest critque. I realized I didn't stitch closely enough to the firearm, but I didn't realize it until I started to molding process. The firearm was very hard to get into the holster to begin with. I know in the picture the stitches don't look straight. Not sure what happened in the pic, but they are straight. Anyhow, enough with my rambling. Any advice and critque will be greatly appreciated!