Tiara

Skin arrived today and very nice quality. Marked on the back as made in Indonesia. Truly is 12' 6" long and 10" wide with 3 small holes. Markings are crisp and has a glaze finish. For the price I am quite pleased. Skin arrived today and very nice quality. Marked on the back as made in Indonesia. Truly is 12' 6" long and 10" wide with 3 small holes. Markings are crisp and has a glaze finish. For the price I am quite pleased.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230938324423&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160#ht_1301wt_889 I just ordered one some 11-12 footers available

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230938324423&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160#ht_1301wt_889 I just ordered one.

Hi all, I have some head pieces of caiman that are a cool looking salt and pepper coloring. They look like this. http://www.allexoticleather.com/product-p/chnat40.htm I want to keep the dark markings and dye the white portions different colors. there is a glaze on the skin that varies, glossier and appearing thicker on the more raised areas, to a more semi gloss/satin appearance on the outer areas that are most of the white areas. I'm experimenting with small pieces first. In the first test, I wanted to see what would happen without deglazing and dyed straight over the glaze. Used Angelus purple spirit dye diluted with isopropyl acohol about 10 to 1. Had softened it somewhat with applying a glycerin/alcohol/water solution from the back side. I've used on other caiman and snake skins with good results. Dyed it and left overnight to dry. It looked good but was quickly apparent that either the dye or pretreatment with glycerin mix was lifting the glaze. The glaze itself had soaked up the dye with some partial penetration beneath. I took another couple of test pieces along with this one and did a few other tests. Went back to the first piece and used acetone to see about getting all the glaze off and used the acetone on another piece. I had applied the acetone, let it sit for a minute or so and scrubbed it off as much as I could. The first piece I did still had some glaze on it this morning after its dried that lifts easily with a light fingernail scrape. The second piece I didn't use the glycerin on and deglazed first seems not to be lifting and appears more of the glaze is gone. The third piece I tried dyeing from behind as I do with snake skin. Did not wet it first but will do so on the next test. This one is interesting. It did take more dye of course but the color came through to the surface. Some interesting color shifts with some areas more bluish and some more reddish with other areas more towards the usual purple. The dark marking do show nicely on all the pieces but the one dyed from behind has partial penetration on the scutes. No sign of the glaze lifting off this one yet. I may keep going with this process. However, I would like to know if it is likely for this glaze to keep lifting off? I've usually found that I like the look of the exotic skins best after dyeing with some oil and then use Angelus satin acrylic finishe diluted 50/50 with water as a sealer. Would the alcohol in the dye be the likely causing of the glaze lifting? Any tips on getting the acetone to more completely take it off if I need to do so? or adding another finish over it? thanks in advance

Thanks JayJay, I'll pick up some and head over to the friend who has the sewing machine.

Hi all, I ordered some cobra skins from an ebay supplier in Indonesia. Had a glitch as my skins went to another customer and his wallet to me. In straightening things out the supplier and I started emailing directly. The cobra skins were quite nice and a decent price when they arrived. I asked about other skins, especially python and lizard. I specifically wanted ones with little background color, as close to black and white as possible. I just got 2 nice reticulated python skins with heads, about 6 feet long for $40 each and 2 ring lizard skins, about 12" long for $15 plus combined shipping of $10. quick shipping arrived today after about 2 weeks. Erlin at erlimarsellawijaya@yahoo.com if you want to contact for skins.

I've not worked with lizard crust but have been working with some snake and caiman that were quite stiff and dry. Mixing some water, glycerin and alcohol and applying to the back of the skin, lightly, let dry for 24 hours and add another if needed has been helping to make them quite soft and supple without being oily. I did overdo the glycerin a couple of times and they stayed damp as it holds water very well. a dip in alcohol evened it out. I usually dye first and when satisfied with the dried color do the glycerin treatment. As it draws water back in the color will darken a bit so do some test pieces. It seems to give some more depth to the color and texture.

Cyberthrasher, My late husband was an engineer specializing in composite materials. The fuzzies if long enough and enough of them are going to act like an aggregate. Roughing up smooth leather before gluing is often recommended. How rough becomes too rough? In any project my husband and I did that involved a composite material, which ranged from pouring concrete with both sand and gravel in specific ratios to the mud and reinforcing with rebar, the amount of filler ie the fuzzies to the bonding material made a difference. The bonding material didn't care what it bonded to but the effective strength in shear and compression forces made us care. The fuzzies might give a good surface to glue ratio and add some strength to prevent separation or might weaken the bond by tearing themselves. Since I'm not yet familiar with the properties of the materials I'm using, asking those who are experienced seems sensible.

Hi Dwight and thanks for the reply. My reason for 2-3 coats on the caiman is that the other pieces of it I've worked with suck up so much of it that one coat on each piece didn't seem to give good grab. I watched a video on Springfield leather's site describing how 2 coats, with dry time in between gives a more secure hold. The other caiman was from a different hide that was rough but not fuzzy and with a firmer texture and still sucked up a lot of the Weldwood. The fuzz is probably 1/4 inch long for about half of it and an 1/8th inch or less for the rest. Enough of it that I wasn't sure if it would weaken the bond when it's flexed. I think I'll take most of it off.

I want to glue a caiman backstrap to some veg tan, flesh side to flesh side. The caiman has quite a bit of fuzz on it. I removed a lot of it with a wire brush but don't know what would be an optimal amount to leave prior to gluing. How much should I sand off or would it be better to singe off? I plan on using Weldwood gel with 2-3 coats on the caiman and 1-2 on the veg tan and letting dry in-between.

Ok, will do! thanks again.

Thanks Cyberthrasher, I'll check further into thread and take it over to her. If I can match the red fairly well I may go for a straight line near the edge.

Hi all, I'm making a guitar strap to donate to a fund raiser. Tandy kit on sale, I'm a newbie and not skilled at cutting and such yet. I had a white with black markings snake skin, dyed it ox blood red as I did the straps, glued it to the flesh side, buffed all pieces, trimmed, applied neatsfoot oil, and sealed the next day with Angelus satin acrylic. I used Weldwood gel and the edges look as if they are quite tight. I do have a friend with a heavy duty sewing machine that can stitch it. We tried a similar test piece today. But I like the way it looks without stitches better. Will a guitar strap get the sort of wear that might catch the edge and start to lift? If I do need to sew it, what type of thread is recommended? Any particular type of stitch better for this? Her machine can do some overlapping zigzag stitches that might hold the edge down better than some straight stitches.

I don't know how often boas are hunted for skins or how big they get on average. Anacondas and pythons are enormous. Right now pythons in the Everglades are a severe problem. A month long hunt in a recent article showed only 27 caught in the first 2 weeks with 800 permits issued. http://www.nytimes.com/2013/01/24/us/florida-mounts-a-hunt-for-creatures-that-maintain-a-very-low-profile.html?pagewanted=all One female radio tagged and released was over 17 feet when caught again and had 87 eggs in her that were fertile. I started checking for sustainability of the snake species I wanted skins for. There are conflicting reports on how effective farming of captive bred snakes is, captive raised wild harvested eggs or hatchlings and how many skins come from wild caught snakes either legally or poached. There are confirmed reports of large pythons living in cities like Bangkok. The success of pythons in the Everglades and elsewhere and possible report of a breeding pair of King cobras there also makes me think that the hunting in their native habitat is unlikely to endanger them. Loss of habitat may be an issue but with the reports on just how hard it is to hunt these species indicates to me that breeding adults in jungle type habitat would be hard to eradicate. I also find snake and caiman skin fascinating to work with. I prefer light colored skins to dye myself and the way scales may take up dye around the edges more deeply than the center if I don't overload gives some lovely effects. Add in some oils to give depth and then I've found some highlighting acrylic based paints that accentuate the textures even more and I'm enthralled. Post some pictures of your project please?

I'm a newbie myself but have mostly worked with snake skin for somewhat similar projects. More experieneced people may contradict what I do so don't do anything before you get more feedback. However, I did do some checking on restoring leather with glycerin and found that the British museum uses glycerin and water to restore very old brittle leather. It is possible that the glycerin will hold so much moisture in that it can mold but this doesn't seem that common. I found that some of the skins I have been working with are either much like paper to start with or become very stiff and dry after I dye them with spirit dyes. I found that mixing glycerin and water or glycerin, water and isopropyl alcohol which helps with drying time, and applying to both sides increases suppleness a great deal. Glycerin is a humectant, fancy word for something that draws in and holds water. So a bit of water in the mix speeds up the time that it would take for the glyerin to pull water out of the air. Right now I have a couple of snake skins hanging to dry after I applied glycerin and water but no alcohol. They have been hanging in an area with normal room temps and air flow, not near a heat vent for about 3 days. It may take about another 24 hours before the water evaporates enough to glue to a backing. I'm cross checking final feel against another skin that I used the mix with alcohol. I think that does't leave it quite a supple. Alcohol itself can be used as a "shoe stretch". Some shoe stretching products are made with alcohol, small percent of water and glycerin. Sprayed on shoes, worn until dry so that they conform to the foot better. I've noticed when I glue snake skins, that the glue itself makes them temporarily softer and more pliant. I have a python skin that is much thicker and doesn't change as much with the glue. When I glue them to backing, if the backing is also quite thin, when the glue dries the backing will curl a bit. As those laminates are then used glued to a metal wrist cuff, the final product isn't wrinkled. So far I've not had a problem with gluing the skins treated with glycerin not sticking even if applied to a smooth surface or lifting loose later. But none of those have been glued on more than 6 weeks. I have found that gluing to pliver--found a couple of sources on ebay, that the skins are easier to work with. Pliver or skiver are very thin skins used for doll making and other craft work. I've found white, black and at times a few other colors available but those are the only ones I've needed. I have rubbed straight glycerin on the skins but found that mixed with water worked better. The 'straight' glycerin took days to pull moisture in unless we had a rainstorm. I hope other more experienced members can post so we both can find out how well this works out over time.

Thanks Tom, Disassembling would take removing a long line of tacks and I suspect some staples in the tucked areas. Difficult for me. There appears to be some fiber type cushioning material under it, not foam so there is room to work. The patch from behind might be feasible for me, I don't see what looks to be a backing material. I think this is going to be more than my newbie skills are up to now or for some time to come. Since it does have sentimental value that makes it irreplaceable, it's better to admit my limits and find an upholsterer. I can probably handle the latex type fill and oiling but the rest on leather so dry and surprisingly thin is too risky. Thanks for giving me the info I need to say no, not up to this one. Oh, for future reference, what would you suggest as a slow drying glue? Right now I have Tandy tanners bond for some small light duty projects and Weldwood gel which I think would not be appropriate.

My sweetheart has a chair with sentimental value where he'd prefer not to replace the leather on the seat. The leather is very dry, has quite a few surface cracks that don't go all the way through and one tear about 3" long. quite straight and looks as if a cracked line pulled apart, the edges are frayed looking. Is there a glue that will hold the tear and fill in the cracks to prevent another tear and not affect color too much? With the tear I think I'd need to use some tape to hold the edges together until it sets. Or if this is important enough to him is it better to take it to an upholsterer who works with leather?

Thanks Spence, So you are starting with a fresh scraped skin that hasn't been salted or dried first? Most of what I'd found had people scraping and if not salting, then tacking to a board to dry before applying the 50/50 mix. If you are starting with a fresh wet skin, then I should be safe rewetting the skins to unroll and apply the mix. I do plan on using these for similar uses to the ones you mentioned. Great looking GSD pic BTW. I admire your leashes and collars. I hope to work up to making my own sturdy collars and leashes. So far I've made some prong collar covers with snake, caiman tail and row stone stingray but not attempted to make an agitation strength collar or leash.

I was given an air dried snake skin. I've found the same basic information on home tanning snake skins in the archives and elsewhere on the net. Basically to soak for about 3 days in 50/50 solution of glycerin and denatured alcohol. Rinse in water, work until supple and dry. I've also been reading ads by the companies producing various reptile tanning products. Is there any benefit to using these over the glycerin/alcohol process? Is it better to leave it very dry or re-hydrate it to some degree first? On some commercially tanned snake skins that were stiffer than I wanted especially after I dyed them, applying a mix of roughly a third each of water, alcohol and glycerin until fairly damp and let dry. One coat has usually been enough. If there is any excess it wipes off easily. The skins become quite a bit more supple even if glazed. I have some non glazed skins that become very soft and supple. Neither type has had a problem holding a finish, sticking to glue or darkening. Working them with my hands seems to open up the scale pockets. This gives the colors a bit more variety and contrast. Since the glycerin will pull water from the air as well as hold water already in the skin, I am wondering if dampening the skin first will help speed up making it supple or will the water before it's finishing any chemical changes from the glycerin/alcohol would damage it? It's rolled fairly tightly so I've not fully examined it. I don't know how brittle it might be. It's a lovely skin from what I've seen and was told by the friend who gave it to me that it was in very good shape when he rolled it. I'd like to have it turn out as nicely as possible. So what do you suggest? do it yourself mix or commercial product? leave it dry before treating or dampening it first?

http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1847-AA.shtml dharma also carries these lumiere and neopaque acrylic fabric paints. They have worked very well for me on leather. I'll check the silver again but recall that a quick test drop appeared silver. The basic gold is golden. Dharma also carries the unmixed pigments, Pearl ex is the brand and the base is sold separately making it easier to mix. There are some really cool hi lighter and color shift pigments. One color on dark and another on light backgrounds. various shades of gold and degree of 'glitter' depending on particle size. A little goes a long way. There are ebay vendors carrying the Pearl ex pigment in individual 3 gram bottles rather than the larger half ounce if you don't need much.

Great idea! I wonder if it would help for some of us who are interested to let them know what type and how much we'd like to order. For me the basic natural gray was most intriguing. The cod also looked interesting with the 2 sorts of textures.

Hi Bob, I did check this company. With shipping from Canada the prices were fairly high unless I got a big enough order. I might do so in a few months. Thanks for posting the link.

I'm looking for one right now also. Ebay seems to be much less expensive than the sewing and hobby stores I've checked. I had looked briefly online with several retailers including amazing, Joann fabrics online store, and dropped in Hobby Lobby, Michaels and 2 fabric stores. The prices for the same self healing mats was quite a bit more than some ebay sellers including shipping. I am looking for a small one for some fine detail cutting. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SELF-HEALING-CUTTING-CRAFT-MAT-GRID-LINES-INCH-PAD-DOUBLE-SIDED-9-X-7-5-GREEN-/230818699404?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bdddd88c A comparable one was about 3 times the price in the stores yesterday.

Thanks for the kind words. I bought the blanks from this shop. http://www.beadwork-supplies.com/index.html Not spring steel but aluminum. Lighter weight and less expensive than brass and I don't want either of those metals against my skin, I'm covering the insides so color is not an issue. I do have an idea for spring form cuffs using memory wire. I've seen some spiral shaped cuffs and rings Here's one example http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-spiral-turquoise-snake-leather-wristband-bracelet-81stgeneration-/140764059680?pt=Fashion_Jewelry&hash=item20c6311820 i suspect that it is made with memory wire in that center ridge. There are leather tubes made to have the wire inserted. Usually I've seen that for bangle type bracelets that I'm not interested in. But the idea of running memory wire between layers to have a flexible fit is interesting. Some memory wire comes preformed in diameter but some can be heat treated with a candle flame and set to custom shapes. I've managed to use diluted glow paint to cover some cobra skin that allowed the background pattern to show in daylight and the white areas to glow red in the dark. The pigments are rather flat dull colors in daylight but I don't have the high sheen recommended finish on it yet. That is suggested as it allows more light in and out of the pigment than satin or matte. I have also done a test on black light pigments which are either totally invisible or very slight off white in daylight but bright white, and less bright yellow green, pale blue and red. Both glow and black light pigments show up better on white or very light backgrounds. I'm waiting for some skins with closer to true white than the ones I have. A friend who is a belly dancer is impatiently waiting for some cuffs that glow with snake scale patterns in the dark and have a nice sheen in normal light while still showing the pattern. I think it is do-able but will take some testing to make attractive in daylight as well as reasonably durable. I'll see if I can get a picture of the one kid's cuff I made with red glow paint. Getting a pic of it glowing may take a tripod and long exposure. There are other colors much brighter I haven't received yet.

DS, I have checked ebay and prices and types are rather limited so far. I found another source but not yet ordered. http://www.atlanticleather.is/en/products I contacted them and got a price list. Not bad for top quality appearing products but not sure what shipping will be so plan on waiting until I can afford to buy enough to make shipping per item sensible. The wolf fish skin is really appealing to me. Spincycle, I ordered several semi gloss and gloss skins plus some scrap that had several large skins including suede. I havent worked with that yet but made a few small items only gluing. A couple of hair barrettes glue to a metal blank and a wrist cuff. My stitching skills are unskilled yet so I'm starting to work on them with scraps before tackling some bigger projects with the fish, snake and caiman I have lined up. The fish skins are thick, fairly rigid and stiff. It's mostly carp, with some sea bass and small salmon pieces that are less rigid. I'm trying a test on one 4" carp scrap to see if I can make it more pliant. I mixed glycerine with some water and gave the back side a good coating, the surface seemed to repel it completely. After letting it soak in for a couple of hours I started to work it by rolling and bending over my thumbs. It does seem to have become more pliant without affecting the finish or too soft. I've used some acrylic metallic and hi lighter paints--Luminex, with good results when thinned to translucence. The glycerin treatment might help with holes closing.Hmm, I wonder if leather lace that is treated with the glycerin after stitching might swell up enough to fill in the holes. It seems to have plumped up the skins without leaving it feeling wet or sticky. I've tried this on several snake skins with good results and wondering if adding some to the dye would keep the snake from getting stiff as it dries. Here's a link to a post showing the first items I'm satisfied enough with to show. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44689 The fish cuff was a gift for my sweetheart's son. He was quite pleased to have something made of very unusual appearing leathers. Very simple. Metal cuff blank backed with thin lining leather, front is a dark brown 2 tone carp with an alligator patch. I used Weldwood gel on all 3 pieces, smoothed the edges with a Dremel and used Lumiere black acrylic to cover the edges. Stitching practice is now a priority! I have some experiments in mind for the suede. I want to try dusting with glow in the dark powder pigments, then spray adhesive to hold in place, cover with the water based acrylic generally used to mix the pigments with and press with waxed paper over it and a weight and finally a harder acrylic used with the glow products once I finish the item. I'm hoping for the 2 tone effect that I think comes from the thin scale edges being pressed down on the skin for some of the satin and gloss finishes. Any feedback on my initial projects appreciated. I'm very much a newbie but caught the bug.