the deacon

Looking for a bench type skiver (6" or 8") to do laps on 5-6oz chrome leather. thanks

Thanks for the detailed response Tor. Have you used the CR or CSO on chrome leather?

I've heard it's tough to skive chromexcel leather. I need to lap skive 5-6 oz leather for bag handles (about 7/8" wide straps). I know Tandy, Cowboy, Randell Campbell, Osborne all have skivers. Are there some that work better than others when it comes to chrome leather? Any tips or tricks? Any personal experience lap skiving chrome leather? thanks all.

Hi all, This machine came up for sale near me and couldn't dig up much on it via google. I wondered if anyone has used it? thanks deacon

appreciate the input Darren. The dealer is going to set up the machines I mentioned so I can try them out and see which machine is a good fit, great service. I've seen that Cowboy has an attachable table making the cylinder arm easier for flat goods. Does Juki have that option or can I make one for it?

thanks again Uwe. I have a Juki DDL 555 that is a work horse and great machine, so I'm inclined to agree with you. The used Juki is $1900, about $350 more than the new clone. I haven't done any comparison shopping yet to know if these prices are middle of the road or not.

Thanks Uwe. I should have mentioned that the Juki and Sieko would be used models, I can't afford brand new. The Typical would be a new machine. In case that information impacts the conversation.

Hi all, I'm in the market for a cylinder arm machine that can handle canvas and 4-9oz leather for bags, wallets, and the like. I've been looking into the CB227R, Juki LS341 and Seiko CW8B. In my research I've come across a LS341 clone called a TypicaI. Has anyone heard about this machine? Any other opinions for the machines under consideration? the Juki, Seiko, and Typical would be from a local reputable vendor, I'd have to get the CB227 shipped. thanks deacon

Thanks Ole South and everyone else. Making the move from wovens has proved a touch difficult. Here is an image of a few woven seams and their names. Not pictured is the basic straight stitch (right sides together with a single stitch) or the french seam (where the edge of the seam allowance is encased in the seam allowance, so no fraying edges show). It seems terms like french seam and lapped seams mean something different depending on if one is using wovens or leather. I will take your advice Ole and embrace the more simplicity of leather stitching. I am going to do more experimentation using the glue and clamp method and check out the results. What little machine leather knowledge I have came from a garment leather worker who used thinner lambskin. It was he who said to glue the seam allowances open after stitching to attain a crisp, clean seamline. It appears that advice mainly pertains to those thinner weight leather? What are the pros and cons to using 1/2" seam allowance vs. 1/4"? Thanks for the great discussion all.

Beautiful work TinkerTailor, the image helps. Interesting, in soft goods manufacturing "darts" describe the take up of excess fabric to shape, thanks for the heads up. Also thank you for the pointers to use glue. I was under the impression in order to get a clean flat seam when you machine stitch leather right sides together malleting the seam open is necessary. How can this be done if the seam allowances are glued together? I have some Master contact cement that shoe makers use which has worked well. Stuff is mighty powerful smelling though. any tips on the best way to stretch and manipulate the leather around tight curves? In the fabric industry we use thinner seam allowances (1/4") around curves to facilitate smoothness, would the same apply here?

Hi all, I've machine sewn many things in fabric and have done a fair amount of hand stitching leather. I've recently tried my hand at machine stitching leather. One of the challenges I've been having is setting a straight piece of leather into a curved piece. What are the best practices when it comes to this? As you can see from the photo I've clipped and stitched like I do when stitching fabric, the difficulty I'm having is making sure my clipping does not disrupt the integrity of the leather, but is close enough to the seam line to achieve a clean curve. I'm working with 4-5oz chromexcel leather for bags Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks

andrew thanks for the post. Right, it's getting that stitch straight. I've read about a compensating foot guide, though can't tell if it will work well for my application. I did a google search and think the suspending guide looks like a good system too. Are they designed to be used across different machine makers? Or do I need to get one specific to either the juki or singer? that's exactly how i'm imagining the handle. Leather wrapped around cording, I just couldn't figure out how to get the stitch right up to the rope, thanks for the tip about the holster plate I'll look into it. can those be used in flat bed machines and does it also come with a foot that can get the needle up close to the rope?

Thanks PT I'll take a look. Anyone have thoughts on the edge stitching? best

Hi all I have a Juki DNU-1541 and a singer 211 U567B both walking feet machines. I want to do a leather canvas bag that has the double stitch overlap seam where leather meets canvas. Like image inclosed. Any thoughts on good feet to accomplish this? Also any tips on how leather purse handles are constructed? Thanks for the help

Thanks for the comments. I agree, micro manufacturing has taken root and fills a much needed niche, and that we will never return to the "good ol days". But I sense people and customers today are craving products that reflect their aesthetic and are made using long tested, tried and true methods to produce quality. There are many small companies opening up where the craft of making the product is just as important as the final product. There is an analog to the slow food movement in the product world. It's maybe ten years behind, but I see how it can really become big. If that happens the skills will be in more demand, hopefully causing that knowledge to be passed down and valued.

Hi all. This is my first time posting, but I've been reading and learning for a while. First off I'd like to say that I have much respect for learning a craft and/or trade and pursuing that as one's life. I have not really worked with leather (thanks to this site I'm learning to, though). I am a clothing maker by trade and am drawn to the process of designing, sourcing inputs, and producing items that I feel have something to say. I love to work with my hands and enjoy the satisfaction of producing something of integrity, quality, and beauty. Although separated by traditions, craftspeople are not much different than the new maker movement (though much of their skills are technological). When I purchase items it means a lot to me (as well as being well designed and constructed) to know where it came from, who had a hand in it's making, and about the inputs. I had a clothing line (www.dieterbennet.com) and tried my best to adhere to these ideals. I have since started a new project and want to go even deeper into those ideals. I work in fabric, and in that medium am very proficient. Although I'm learning leather, I fully understand that there will be other people that will have more skill at leather craft no matter how hard I work. I think this is a good thing, I love to connect with people that have deep knowledge and skill. The hardest thing that I've run across is it's often very hard to find craftspeople. I think community building like leatherwork.net is crucial, but there are countless others not even hooked up to the net. It is my great dream to build a community of craftspeople in which we all work together to achieve great things. I see American micro-manufacturing as a great thing, and hope to be a part of it. Anyway, just throwing comments out there. If you are like minded, or disagree please post up. best dieter