rundogdave

Thanks! I look forward to it.

Can you go in to more detail on this? My little pea brain can't picture what you are explaining. Maybe a drawing or photo?

MStarmer, I believe I formed it with the safety off, but I really can't remember. Never thought about it, to be honest. I suppose it should be formed with the safety on, as one would carry it. Is the reinforcement piece for looks or function? What did you use to die the one pictured?

Thanks, but I think I can do better. I used a hole punch on each end, the an exacto knife to cut out the rest. Then tried to burnish the slot with a new burnisher chucked in my drill press, that I bought from one of the advertisers on this site. Katsass, you are not dissuading me in the least. I appreciate your honest criticism. I will take everyone's suggestions to heart. I'm working on new patterns already. And I'll go to bed tonight repeating my new mantra, "Do not cover the mag release, Do not cover the mag release, Do...not... cov....zzzzzzzzz.

Concealed carry for now. I would imagine there are dozens that are not of the concealed carry type.

It's fun addicting, and frustrating when I mess something up. I did get the weapon a little too deep in to the holster, but didn't realize it until after it dried. One of several lessons learned. Started another one already, for a Glock 17 this time. Do you do your stitching before or after you form? Did the stitching before on the first one. I want to try this one after, to keep the stitching white. I like the contrast. I am using 6-7 oz. on these. Seems to be a nice weight for the wet forming. How do you make them without belt slots? Got any photos to share?

What are the different holster styles? Pancake, Avenger. Are there others? Can someone show me what they look like and the characteristics, advantages, disadvantages are? Thanks.

This is my first attempt at a scratch built holster. Did some experimenting. Drilled the stitching holes on the right side with a .060 drill. I see from other posts that this is too big. Left side with an awl. Need to improve my stitching and edge work, as well as the belt loops. Dip dyed after forming and stitching, several coats of neatsfoot oil then 50/05 water and resolene. What do ya think? Don't be shy. Can't hurt my feelings. Don't have any!!

Here are some pics of the finished holster. Learned a lot. The next one will be better. I need to work on the stitching and the belt slots. Don't have a good pic of the edge, but it needs some improvement also. Comments and criticisms welcome. You are not going to hurt my feelings. Don't have any, so my wife tells me!!

Haven't forgotten. Computer problems. Doing this from an iPod. Damp sponge with stain has taken care of most of the white coloring/covering. I rubbed the snot out of it before hand with little effect. Several coats of neatsfoot oil have given it a nice black color. I was hopping the oil would have softened the leather up, but it is still stiff as cardboard. Any suggestions on how to soften it?

I'm out of town until tomorrow evening. I'll try the suggestions, then get back to you. I did read on Tandy's web site that the stain is made of different waxes, so that may very well be the problem.

I believe I've seen a topic about this, but I can't seem to find it. I dip dyed a holster, my first original, in Tandy's professional black water stain. I t has been drying for about 3 hours now, and it has what looks like a white frost covering. It was in the stain for about 30 seconds. I put the dye in a 1 gallon zip lock bag, then dropped the holster in, and sloshed it around until I was sure it had all been covered. Removed it from the stain, wiped of the excess, and set it aside to dry. Now the white covering. Doesn't seem to wipe/rub off, and can't scrape it off with my finger nail. What did I do wrong?

For those that sew by hand, do you use an awl, a chisel type awl, or drill? If drilling, what size drill bit do you use? And do you groove the back side of the stitching? Thanks.

Thanks for the information. Going to glue and stitch it up this evening. I assume dip dyeing is exactly what it sounds like. Submerge the project in the dye of your choice. If it turns out decent, I'll try to post a pic for comments/criticisms.

Thank you all for the information. Leatherjunkie, that is the way I am doing this. Saw it on a youtube vid. Maybe you?? So does one stain and finish the grain sides as well? If so, how I've heard several light coats of 50/50 resolene and water for a final finish. Oops, I meant how to finish the flesh sides.

I'm trying to build my first holster from scratch. I'm building a pancake style with the grain side facing out on both pieces. I have read a lot of valuable information here. You are all a wealth of knowledge. My first question; I have seen an additional piece sewn/ glued to the front of several holsters here and on other sights. Is there a reason for this other than tooling for decoration? And would this piece be put on before or after wet forming? Next; Should dying be done before wet forming or after? Or should the inside be dyed before wet forming, then finish dying after? I'm sure your responses will promote additional questions on my part. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. Greystone, most pay ME $.10 to keep my $.02 worth!!

Thanks. So if one doesn't have reverse, would you just turn the work around after the last stich and re-stich over the last stiches? I ask, because there is a new GA5-1 at a local shop for $800. Says it has a cosmetic flaw. Just wondering if I should spend the extra cash for a reverse model.

What is the reason some machines will stich in reverse, and what are the benefits? Or am I confused about what reverse means in regard to sewing machines? I do get confused easily, or so I'm told. Thanks.