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JinxedDream

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Posts posted by JinxedDream


  1. Hopefully this is the right topic. I dabble into leatherwork and repair when needed but this project is beyond my skill. I have a professional enlisted to help me, she's worked with leather for years and has done some saddles. And if not, there's a custom maker not far from me who would help.

    Anyway, I'd like to build a skeleton saddle for endurance racing. Does anyone know where we could find a cable-rigged endurance tree (I don't want a horn)? I know Laporte has the cable-rig but I'm not sure if they make an endurance tree. I tried contacting CSST but never got an answer. Then, any recommendations on the type and weight of leather to use? The saddle would have the seat half-covered with jockeys so the stirrup leathers are covers and the cable. It would also have skirts.

    If there's anything you think I need to know to do my research properly, please let me know. My friend (the professional) has told me I have to bring the supplies and she would bring the tools and the skills. I do have the saddlemaking books so I can understand the process.

    Or if anyone knows someone who makes saddles like what I'm looking for, names help too!


  2. Hoping this is the right section.

    I have an order for a dog collar with a name on it. I never got the alphabet stamps because normally I don't do projects with letters in them. Is there any way I can just carve the letters and then clean them up with a bevel tool? Does anyone have any suggestions? I do have a piece of tracing film that I printed out the letters on in a large block font.

    I've also seen "craftaids" listed on SLC. What are these and would they help?

    Thanks for any advice, still new at this!


  3. A suggestion that was given to me, was to pick a project, and then build up your tools from there. GoodsJapan has many tools, I'm currently waiting on some from them, very reasonable prices. Springfield Leather is another, also has generally good tools at good starting prices.

    For awls, I just got a Douglas diamond blade with a Stinger awl haft and I must say, I'm in love. Worth every penny.

    You can also get many tools at the hardware store and if you are creative, make your own.

    It is costly but no more than other hobbies. Look at what parents drop today for their children to play hockey. Or owning a horse. Or sewing. I have figured out that unlike most things, leathercraft tools do hold their value fairly well so that if you decide this isn't for you, you will get most of your investment back as long as the tools you bought aren't complete junk.


  4. I'm aware of that. However, if I make them longer again, cues become difficult. You can see just how far down my boots are along her side. I know on my fat pony, my toes would touch her knees. I take the arm length and then shorten it a hole. When I did ride English in first year college, I was running the irons up 3 to 4 holes just so I could keep my legs on the horse not around the horse (it was a 16.2hh warmblood).


  5. Jinxed, any chance of posting a side-on pic of you mounted at halt? What Dag has said sounds about right and checking your position is the most logical thing to do, at the risk of sounding a little patronising.

    That's not an issue. I'll find one tonight, post it.

    Dag, thank you. English saddles are an issue, I have only found one that I really liked and it was on one of my catch ride horses

    . 9 times out of 10, I can basically wrap my legs almost all the way around the barrel of the horse. Current horse is 15.1hh, quite a step up from my quarter ponies.


  6. Right now its at a walk, horse had a few weeks off but usually, that is mostly, trot and canter, once she's back in shape. Walking is too slow for me LOL It is easier for me to post at a trot.

    It could be but I'm not sure. I can at least stand after riding in the stock saddle, those stirrups help so much! I don't think my position is too far off ideal, my coach hasn't said anything recently. Although I've been riding in Tough Ducks recently... so its entirely possible that I have been sitting funny up there.

    Your falling off incident sounds like mine. I hadn't ridden bareback in close to 4 years, just went from saddle to saddle. Had a photoshoot last summer and the photographer wanted me to canter bareback through a field. Let's just say all she got was some really funny photos of me trying and failing to stay on the horse.


  7. I think people will need to know where the pain is and what your fit is to be able to help with an answer or suggestion. Back, hips, knees, etc. Is there actual bruising? Have you been in an accident and have damaged joints, bones, ligaments? Are you short, tall, long body, short legs, heavy, slim, etc.

    It's so tempting to say something about a "pain in the ...". But I'll leave that for someone else.

    Tom

    Mostly my knees. And depending on the saddle, hips. Back is rare, that's usually only in English and for the most part, preventable. I did get wider stirrups, that helped a bit with the knees. The worse part is actually that I feel like I'm sitting on the side of the seat... my seat bones hurting so bad is usually what makes me get off and walk home. In the case of the stock saddle, only the knees are really an issue.

    As for me, I'm tall and slim. 5'10" with a 36" inseam. I feel the most comfortable in a 15" western seat but at the same time, I feel like I'm sitting on the sides... not in the actual seat.

    I'm going to attach a few photos...

    First 14" western. Cheap, got it new. So all wear marks are for me. Had the seat issue... and that's why I sold it.

    100_0401_zpse1fbf5b3.jpg

    100_0405_zps518588e2.jpg

    ^ Felt like I was sitting on that concho.

    Next, 15" western. Older, got it used. Seat was amazing. But my hips and knees would nearly kill me. Not to mention the stirrups were so off and short.

    100_1699_zps1c247521.jpg

    Last, my current. 15" stock saddle. Only pain is my knees and it hasn't been enough to make me want to find a new saddle. The seat isn't as dished as I like but it works.

    ellymar034_zps8fccf218.jpg

    These are the saddles I all kept for more than a year. The fat pony in the tooled saddle was my bareback horse... it was like riding a big gaited couch!

    Jinxed, what I think you are needing is the right shape in the groundseat to fit you. You can ride hard seats all day if they fit you, and padded seats still hurt if they are not shaped to fit the rider. Check out "ground seat" in the search function here and see what you come up with. I know there were some discussions on it a few years ago. You can also search for fitting males versus females. (It makes a difference..) Building a good groundseat to fit the rider is one of the discussions saddle makers constantly have, so you know there are many opinions on it...

    Thank you! Will search this. Looks like we posted at the same time.


  8. Hopefully this is the correction section. Anyway, I ended up here because ultimately, I'd like to make my own saddle. Currently saving up for that :)

    My biggest issue is not fitting my horses, I can usually find a saddle fairly quickly that fits whatever horse I'm riding. My biggest headache is finding a saddle that fits me, the rider. I've probably gone through 8 or 9 saddles in the last 10 years. I've had everything from old economy saddles to an old custom-made. I've ridden Western, English and stock. Usually to the same result, after 2 or 3 hours in the saddle, I'm in enough pain to cry. I've walked home because I hurt that much. I've ditched my saddles and rode home bareback, going back later with the truck to get my tack. I rode bareback for 2 years exclusively because I was so frustrated. Sadly, I sold my bareback horse and my new one can't go bareback... she's short-strided and hard to stay on. I have a stock saddle right now, it's not perfect but I can go about 4 or 5 hours without too much pain. Problem is the saddle is old and I don't know how many years it has left.

    So my question is how do you make sure your saddle fits the rider? Do you think padding the seat actually makes it more comfortable for the rider? Padding has never done anything for me... if I do anything, I throw a sheepskin over the seat.


  9. I use either round drive punches or single tube frame punches. On the rotary punches you will see that the tube will enter the leather at a slight angle, and the thicker the leather the more the angle. Some of them will tend to roll out as you squeeze and make things worse. The single tube frame punches (aka squeeze punches, spring punches, handle punches, plier punches, etc) have a wider gap usually and will enter the leather a lot more squarely. The punch tubes themselves can also be replaced. The round drive punches work well too, and you aren't limited by the reach of the frame or rotary punch.

    Thank you. Where can I find the single or tube punches? Does osborne have some?


  10. Yes, accrual is when the action happens. Cash is when you get the cash. In this case, with accrual, you would make an account for the customer, you show that they paid 50% and the remainder is on the books as a credit. So your "cash" goes up by the full amount but you keep it even with the credit of the 50% that the customer still owes you. In cash accounting, you just show that there is an inflow twice, no credit accounts unless you are getting loan and there is actual cash involved.


  11. Quickbooks is an excellent software to use, most businesses, especially the smaller ones seem to be using that one. We use it for the farm. Accounting isn't that hard (says the business student). Just keep track of what you spend, keep all the receipts (the shoebox method is more popular than you think). Write out receipts for what you sell. IRS just wants your cash flows. Setting up a business account might be good, it give you a way to check your books.

    Don't panic. If you really want to, consult an accountant, they are usually helpful.

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