Tenleytown DC

Thanks each and all. I appreciate that you have all taken time out of your day to help me out. I checked out Cyberthrasher's image gallery before I left work - the guitar strap was spot on with just enough blend and stand out to my eye. Sending the links showing the fresh crisp lines from your latex process is exactly what I was looking for. Receiving the feed back on other locations and uses brings me back to the old days using a library's card catalog. I often learned more being side tracked by the sub-headings and see also than in pursuing the original idea. I'm probably the only guy without a digital camera - but I'll update after I get a chance to try this out.

Many thanks for the tip. The latex will work just like the wax - without turning the shoe into a torch trying to melt it off. Will the latex discolour the leather or the dye when applied/removed? Latex by logic seems much surer than a liquid chemical resist - completely sealing off the pores. I'll play around with it this weekend on some blanks. I have some Silicone sealant at home - I think that may be too rigid and permanent but now that you got me thinking I'll give it a shot.

Would someone kindly point me in the right direction. For several weeks now I've been trying to come up with published techniques when using multiple Fiebings dyes (in my case on shoes and belts) separated/protected by some sort of resist or technique. I'm accustomed to using paraffin in a pottery situation to either prevent the clay from receiving any color (at all or at that moment of the process - or to protect a final step while completing colors in another section). Is there a corollary in using Fiebings' dyes? I've gotten reasonable good at blending in the dyes creating a patina, hue or amalgam I like. I am unable to discover a product or technique that will enable me to create crisp lines.