Modad2010

He took this one in on a trade for a Cobra class 4, I believe.

Got a used Machine from Cobra Steve and it was delivered yesterday. I got it to the house and set up, but was so tired from work didn't get to play with it much. Got home today and set up the bobbin winder and tried to load a bobbin. I had to help it along a little as it wanted to wind one side more than the other. Been having fun with it all evening. Not sure if I wanna start sewing holsters yet but it won't be long. I just wanna put out a big Thank You to Steve and Dave at The Leather Machine Co. and all of the folks at their company. They were all very helpful and pleasant to talk to.

For some of the best tutorials for hand stitching, look up Nigel Armitage on You Tube. He does a great job of showing how to do things right and then explains why they are done that way. I am waiting for my sewing machine to be delivered, but in doing my holsters, I am sewing 2-3 layers of 7-10 oz. veg-tan and trying to keep up with incoming orders. I do agree that nothing looks quite as nice as a well done hand stitch. Like the others, thanks for your service to our country!

Looking at the Springfield leather sites 10 day deals and they have several western diamond back skins for $90 each.

I was just wondering if anyone has tried one of the Cowboy 3200 machines. Supposed to have many of the same parts as a 441 clone but at a lesser cost. I'm needing a machine for making holsters and gun belts and was thinking it might be an option for me.

I was just wondering if anyone has tried one of the Cowboy 3200 machines. Supposed to have many of the same parts as a 441 clone but at a lesser cost. I'm needing a machine for making holsters and gun belts and was thinking it might be an option for me.

I will be picking up a used Toro 3000 soon and noticed that the 3000 does not have the integrated bobbin winder like it's big brother the 4000. Just wondering how does one rewind the bobbins for the Toro 3000?

Thanks, Steve.

I am looking for my first machine to stitch holsters. I am on a very limited budget and saw a rebuilt Consew 227 LTHR single needle, cylinder bed, lockstitch machine in my price range. Supposed to have a servo motor and dual speed reducer. says it will sew 3/8" and this would probably be enough depth for me for now. Just wondering if this would be a good machine for building concealment holsters?

Is the Cobra 3 still available?

I like to wet the holster for a few seconds in warm water and then bone in the detail. I carefully remove the mold gun and then place in a food dehydrator set at 100-110 degrees for 60-90 minutes. The leather will shrink some but provides a nice, snug fit that allows the owner to break in to the way he/she wears it. I also do my final burnishing and finishing after the wet molding is done.

I recently made a crossdraw for a friend and after having the same issue as yourself, went with the avenger style. It was for a 5" 1911 and was for a guy that is 5'8" and 145 pounds. It was not very comfortable for him. I'm not a big fan of crossdraws for the same reasons they are not allowed in IDPA. Just my 2 pennies.

Thanks for the advice. I was assuming that bevelers would be one of the first things. The first upgrade I actually made was to call Barry King, ask for his advice and order a new swivel knife. I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas. Thanks again.

Hi everyone. I just recently started carving and tooling after building holsters for the past year. The stamping tools that I am using are some of the newer craftools. Being on a budget, I am not able to buy a complete set at one time. My question is what tools do you start upgrading with first? Bevelers? Shaders? Veiners? Thanks in advance.

Check with Springfield Leather, they sometimes have bags of exotic scrap for a reasonable price.