hunter131

ok i think i got it. pretty much you do it the same as any other piece its just gonna be harder and slower since you have to move the needle around and its a tight fit and everything. i will have to give it a try once i get time and just go for it. if it works it works if not i will try again. thanks for the help camano

i didnt post a pic sorry i should have. i want it just like the first pic camano showed. i already molded it i just need help knowing how to stitch. i will hand stitch since i dont have a sewing machine thanks

not to sure where to post this but i figured here is the best place..i decided to try and make a butt stock for a .22 i have. i formed a piece of leather for the butt and a piece to wrap around the stock. i have know idea how to sew them together though. i have seen pictures of them finished but i cant figure it out. i don't have a sewing machine so i hand stitch. thanks in advance

that makes sense. before though i was having trouble with the NL flaking after it was dry and and bending in the leather. i could use a brush and apply the neat lac to the dyed parts and it would turn the brush black and if it toched un dyed leather it would leave black on it

so i was having trouble applying neat lac and someone suggested use it full strength then wipe excess off with sheepskin..that works great! now i have a problem with the dye. i was using eco flow and didnt care for it and it wasnt working to great so i switched to fiebings. i use pro oil in the black and thats what i have trouble with. i can put it on and right after i can buff with sheepskin and nothing comes up. its like it just soaks every bit up. i oiled it first also. so i can put another coat on and try and get it as even as possible and buff still nothing..get a damp paper towel and buff and just a little comes up. now this is where i have problems. i apply my neat lac and when i wipe off excess it smears the black and it like pulls up some of it. i had fiebings red on there also and it didnt happen with the red only the black. i also let it dry about 24 hours. how do i get it to not smear. i really like how neat lac looks and how its waterproof but i am about ready to stop using it. any help is appreciated thanks

thank you guys for the help. i will have to try that and see if it helps. so if i am using as a finish i can use it full strength and apply with sheep skin and then immediately? wipe off with another piece of sheepskin..or do i wait 30 secs or so? also is one coat good enough or should i apply two coats? and when using as a resist do i go about the same method except with a brush?

i might try that on some scrap and see if i like it..thanks

i have never been able to get neat laq to apply the way i want it to. i thin it 50/50 with thinner and i try my best to do thin coats and let it dry in between...but i still have trouble with it flaking off. mainly in bends or or around the edges where i lace. so my question is how do all of yall get it to look so good!? what do you use to apply it with and how light is light. when i applied it it seemed like it just soaked it up like water? i have no idea what i am doing wrong so please help. thanks

So I have a Bible cover im working on and I dyed the silhouette black let it dry over night and buffed it this afternoon. When I buffed it the dye spread all around where I was buffing making around the silhouette and letters darker. I use tandy eco flo and used one coat. I buffed it with sheepskin. Is there anyway to stop this? Am I doing something wrong? Anything will help. Thanks

Thats kinda what I was thinking. I guess I will have to move them to a closet. I might try some oxalic acid whenI get some I just didnt know if someone has already experienced it and figured out a way to make it work better. I might try and even it up with oil and sun possibly. Thanks abunch ferg

I have a couple questions about this...I have mine rolled up in brown packing paper, grain side up since thats how I got it from w&c. How do you keep it from getting sun tanned? I have a roll that some how a section got sun tanned. Is there a way to remove the sun tan or make it all even color? Will oxalic acid work? What about storing the hides in black trash bags? Sorry if this is off topic just figure better ask here instead of creating a new post. Thanks

thank yall. the stitching i do need to work on. this is barely my second item to hand sew. i got a new awl and i am still learning. when i sewed the reinforcement my stitching was pretty decent and straight. however it was harder to sew the holster together since i had to fold it and everything. also i think i made the holster a little to small, the belt loop had to bend quite a bit and it seemed to close. also does the reinforcement piece need to be longer or is that about the right size? Katsass thank you for your input and i totally understand what you are saying. i plan on getting Al Stohlman's book and i believe it is Will Gorhmley book, 1911 holsters. i mights have to round the corners also. the good thing about the holster is it is a concealed holster so none sees it. for my first one i believe it is pretty good but i do notice my mistakes and will learn and improve. i dont post a whole lot on the forum but i do alot of reading and researching to try and figure it out. again i appreciate the help

well i finished the holster. i posted it in show off. thanks for the help everyone

this is my first holster to make. it is for my personal gun. i drew the pattern myself as in i didn't buy any books or patterns. i hand stitched it all. the discoloration is from when i tried to mold it...it didnt work as good as i wanted and it left some darker marks and also i just oiled it so it is still soaking in. on the back you can see there are holes...i got so busy stitching i went to far so i had to undo it and i have holes but its ok i learned my lesson. the edges are the way hidepounder does them minus the glycerine saddle soap. thanks for looking and critiques are appreciated. oh ya and the grips are for sale if anyone is interested just PM me

thank you for the input. i am going to make this one plain then later i might make them more detailed. as for the books i know i need to get several. money is tight right now and i just have to make things work if you know what i mean

well as i was looking at adams leatherwork another question came to mind. what do yall think is better for the reinforcement piece...the little narrow strip or the big round that covers more of the holster?

thank you all very much. I figured the strip was more for reinforcement but wasnt sure but now i know. I have a little knowledge about holsters just have never made one. also i will be making one for a 4" barrell

I am going to try and make my first holster for my own gun. i want to make it OWB with a belt loop on the backside and a belt slot on the side. i have seen the majority of holsters have a small strip of leather on the top of the holster that goes around the frame on the outside of the holster..What is this for and is it necessary? thank you

so i just realized how dumb of a question this was and dumb of me for not thinking about it more and researching...i just looked back at the tutorial and the pics...he rivet the leather to the leather cap the glued the cap to the plastic cap! Duh! i was thinking he drilled through the plastic and riveted it through the plastic. man! i feel stupid LOL

i have watched those videosand they are great. That is how i went about sharpening the blade. and i said that wrong my awl HAFT is cs osbourne and the blade is one from springfield it was in a little package that just said springfield leather on it so im assuming it is their brand

what about a rivet and glue around it to seal it better

So i just got a cs Osbourne awl from springfield and sharpened it real good and man i love it! it is so easy to go through leather. before i was using one of those awl for all and compared to the osbourne awl i would recommend to never get one of those awl for alls

I am working on covering a canteen right now. i want to cover the cap also and want to put a small piece of leather on the cap then attach it to the mouth so it wont fall off. i have looked at the tutorial listed on the forum but my question is what is the best way to attach the leather to the top of the cap. the tutorial says use a rivet. i will use a rivet but im afraid it might leak if it is turned upside down. so with all that being said would you say just use a rivet or what other way?

Bob Park's tutorial says use both

thank you