Mart99

Right, my paint is not usable anymore. It degraded very quickly over the last few months, but hey, it survived for one year longer than the manufacturer recommended, so, not bad at all. But now to the main issue - I'm out of paint and need some of it sooner rather than later. Is anyone still up for buying a jug and splitting it between us, smth like 250ml each?

Hi Enrique, I've still got plenty and almost a year later the paint looks good. How much do you want? Royal Mail seems to offer quite low prices on deliveries to Europe, so I can send you up to a few hundred millilitres. I am also planning to buy more colours (once I find a reliable source for exotic skins in Europe) and we can always split the cost. Let me know.

Ordered this paint from Beraud and got it delivered to UK. It still cost an arm and a leg to get it delivered - 3 times as much as the actual price of the paint, but it was totally worth it - the paint is very easy to work with and Fiebings Edge Kote is nowhere near in terms of the look and feel, compared to this one. The only problem is its shelf life, as I'm not sure I will find that much use for 1lt of black and 1lt of red paint by the time it goes off. So if anyone wants some Beraud paint within UK, do let me know.

It probably would, but my target is currently to produce small leather items, so I would like the thread thinner, hence want to stick with 632 and 532 for the time being. To my taste, 332 would look too bulky on a small wallet (or any wallet for that matter). At the end of the day, if I don't like the new pricking irons, I can always sell them - with good care, they shouldn't lose too much of their price.

Thanks for another detailed response, Macca! Just placed an order for Vergez Blanchard 10/10 and 10/2, let's see how they work:) Thanks again to everyone who helped clarify this!

Thanks for the very visual post Macca, it does clearly show the issue - thread to hole ratio. The thread I used on the images was lin cable 632, but judging by the image, am I correct in assuming that even number 10 iron won't do the trick with that thread thickness? Thanks oltoot, glad the technique looks good:) I've just tried hammering the stitches, albeit with a chunky steel hammer that works better with nails, and they do indeed look better. But the holes are too big still, and even though the thread is flattened, it doesn't fill the holes. So will try the hammering tip once I get an iron much better suited for the thread (and get to invest in a proper hammer for leatherwork)

based in London

Thanks Macca, I actually tried the same angle in pics above, but didn't look like it helped. I mean, if I do not put the knot in, the angle of stitches on the front does get quite steep, while the stitches on the back straighten-up. But as soon as I throw the thread over the right-hand needle, the angle gets shallower (although visible on both sides) and the thread gets pushed to the upper side of the holes. Tried to follow Nigel's videos word by word, but never managed to get steep angles of stitches on both sides, no matter what thickness of the thread I used (This is something I will ask in the forum thread about his videos) As for the punch, yes, looks like he uses Vergez Blanchard irons throughout his process, but which number would you think the one in the video is? I can't figure out, is it #9 or #10? That's what I thought of doing, but then decided not to, as I'm now planning to sell both irons I've got (8 & 9) and buy a Vergez Blanchard. So if someone buys them off me, the irons will be in the original condition. Thanks Jax, Quite frustrated though as was hoping the #9 would be the one I would be able to use in the majority of projects, very keen on starting to design and stitch, there are effectively no irons I can use for that. Ordering each one and waiting for a month before they arrive takes a bit of a patience as well. Thanks Camano ridge, I found that link a while back, but it doesn't say what length (or rather, width) each tooth is. The article also mentions the pricking iron can be used to punch all the way through, if the awl is not used.

Ok, reached for a piece of leather that shows this issue better Thanks Macca, camani ridge and Ski, I am indeed punching all the way through, but judging by a few videos on youtube, some leatherworkers do punch the holes through all the way for smaller items: Trying a thicker thread will add another piece of puzzle - I understand Hermes artisans mostly use Lin Cable 532 or 632 for small accessories, as well as Vergez Blanchard pricking irons, but I, for some reason, thought they use #9? I could also see on some pictures online, no matter how wide the hole, stitches seem to almost ideally run from one hole to the next, while in my case it either starts or ends in the middle. So, yes, feels like I'll have to start from scratch with my tools:)

Hello, I have an issue with holes made by my pricking iron (or probably with my saddle stitching technique). Due to my almost non-existent experience of around 2 weeks, I can't understand what's at fault here. Here is a problem: I make holes with Joseph Dixon pricking iron #9. When stitching I put the second needle behind the first one and on exit of the second needle I throw the thread over it (towards me). I do this in an attempt to get slanted stitches on both sides (the technique may well be wrong). Stitches on both sides are slightly slanted, but the holes look too large for stitches used: I will post some better quality pictures later on, but would you think this is to do with the iron producing holes that are too long, or my stitching is at a serious fault here, which results in the thread being pushed towards the top of the stitch? Any recommendations on how to fix that? Would Vergez Blanchard pricking iron #9 produce shorter holes? Thanks in advance and sorry if the topic has been raised a 1000 times already, couldn't find any reports of similar issues here...