smudley

I have had to have small tools for really small floral work and small picture/figure work as well on many occasions. I have made quite a few tools from nails and stainless bolts. I have also modified about 30 +/- craftools to meet my needs. I have 6 or 7 A104's and at least that many A99/A98's that I've filed down so they will get into really small places. I have filed down smooth & checked bevelers to make them way narrower for tight areas. I have 3 of each of the pointed figure bevelers modified to various widths. When I needed a really tiny thumbprint tool, I filed the sides off of the smallest lined and ribbed pear shaders Tandy made (not makes now) and they work fine. Al Stohlman once said that Tandy's stamp tools are really great tools...as long as you have a file to make them fit your needs. He also made a lot of his own tools from nails. So don't be afraid to modify tools, or make your own to meet your needs.

Hey Papaw, I'm glad you enjoyed the show! It was nice to see you there, even though we didn't get the chance to talk. Maybe next show I won't be running around so much and can sit down and enjoy conversing with the guests more. Congrats on winning the skirting hide, dye, and bracelet. I'll be bringing them to the meeting for you Sunday. We had well over 100 entries this show, and all were very good. Some, of course, were outstanding and unusual. Case in point is, as always, the pieces that Roz "The Dragon Lady" entered. She always has something new and unusual to put in the show, and this year was no exception. I didn't get to take many pictures myself, so as soon as Brent gets his put on computer, we'll have some to share with all the folks here. Jeff Swanson and Roz both taught two classes, and everyone I talked to that took either said they really enjoyed themselves, and learned a lot.

Hi folks. I'm looking for a LC&SJ back issues and articles index in computer file form. I seem to recall seeing a file of the back issues here on the forum a few years ago, but I may have been mistaken. I can't find it anywhere here, if it is here. I have the anniversary issues of LC&SJ, but they are packed in a rubbermaid container where I can't get to them. I needed the article on leather bowls by George Hurst, and was in a hurry so didn't have time to pull out the rubbermaids with all my back issues and look in each one for it. My anniversary issues are packed in a different box. I ended up doing the bowl from memory, and it came out ok I guess, but I know I forgot something. I would really like to find an article index in digital form so looking up individual articles is faster than looking in the anniversary issues through each back issues index listed there.

Happy New Year everyone! I'm not sure if this is the correct sub-forum to ask for help on this topic, but I need HELP! I need to make some kind of general order/confirmation form that has all the possible questions. It also needs to have some kind of statement about payment, order changes, cancellations, and anything else you can think of that I might have forgotten. If anyone has such a form they wouldn't mind sharing, I would appreciate it This will be a bit long winded, but, I've been doing custom orders for quite a while, and have only once or twice had any real issues with customer order requests. I don't have any form, but always ask the pertinent questions when taking orders; what product, what size, what color, what design, any special requests, etc. I always give an approximate delivery date if possible, but make sure not to promise anything I can't deliver. This last order has produced many problems pertaining to most of the asked questions, but most notably an issue with initials. Most of the problems I was lucky enough to catch before getting too far. (I must note here that the order-3 wallets- was for the grandchildren of the purchaser, and that their last name is hyphenated). I got the first wallet done and sent directly to her son to give to the 1st of the grand kids. She emailed me and told me I needed to redo the wallet because I hadn't included the initial for the first of the hyphenated last names....which she hadn't told me about. She apologized for not telling me about the hyphenated name and agreed to pay for a new wallet for the 1st and a new wallet back for the 2nd, as I already had it done as well. I gave her a discount since I felt kind of sorry for her. I got the new wallet back for the 1st wallet made and emailed the pic of it to her son, who replied that he didn't want a period after the 1st of the last name initials (A. A. A.), just after the 1st & last initial (A. AA.), and that the 1st initial should be separated from the last 2 a little more (A. AA.). So now, I've got another wallet back to remake again! I told the son I would absorb the cost of this last wallet back since I should've asked about the periods (though I think he should have told me everything what he wanted). Before going any farther, I submitted the proposed patterns to him-not his mom- for final approval. I told him that once he approved them, I won't redo any more without charging full price + a small fee as this puts me behind on other orders that are still waiting.

When I use my makers mark, I try to put where it is hidden; back of belt or bracelet, inside of book covers, inside checkbook covers &wallets on a little tab glued in the corner or interior design, integrated into the design, or on the bottom of vases, coasters, etc. The only time I put my makers mark on the outside is when someone specifically requests it. I will sign my pictures in the corner instead of using my makers mark. IMHO, it's just more tasteful that way.

I have also had good results with weldwood original. Except when I get in a hurry and don't let it set up long enough before adhering the pieces together, which is a lot of the time. Surprisingly, I like the new Tandy glue in the white bottle ($15 I think). On the few items I tried it on it really did a good job. In fact, I used it to glue down the edges of a wallet interior before lacing, and couldn't get it to come apart when I needed it to to hide my lace splice. I also like the Masters contact cement, especially when thinned a little. Barge is my third choice, and I use Tandy's Tanners bond only if I want to be able to take the pieces apart....easily. I do use it on my backing poster board for tooling, applying it to the "flat" side of the poster board ONLY, and letting it set for a couple of minutes before putting my leather on it. Holds my project well and comes apart easily when done, leaving no residue on the leather backside. Billymac, where do you get your glue pots that you lay down ?

Pro Leather Carver Supply has had some good deals on tools from time to time. Most of his Craftools are older ones (maybe bought from eBay?) and are listed at a little above average price. However, I have bought some from him that I needed but couldn't find anywhere else, so in those cases the prices were very reasonable. His Procrafter Series tools are from the old Hidecrafter Co (bought out by Double K Leather Supply I think). He is a good person to deal with, who ships very promptly and follows special packaging requests (at least for me), his discriptions are very accurate on eBay, and I'v never seen him try to sell junk as good tools.

I agree with the other posters here. The tools in the Tandy beginner sets are worse junk than their regular stamps. The older Craftool stamps, however, are pretty good for the most part. Hit your local flea market to look for tools, books, tooling stones, etc, or go to eBay. Hit your local headstone place or counter place for stones. You can find sink cutouts of granite or Corian relatively cheaply. I use a 8X14" Corian slab in my travel tool box as it's about 1/2 the weight of the same size granite stone and works just as well for most stamping. If you go on eBay to buy, make sure you look at the tools carefully for condition. Look at the faces of the stamps for rust, abuse, and excess wear. When looking at hand tools (edgers, overstitch tools, etc), make sure they are in good condition and can be re-sharpened (edgers, head/round knives, sewing awls). I bought a Weaver round knife (because it is a Weaver) that had been sharpened so much it was only about half the original size, thinking I could just run it over a stone a few times and it would be fine. WRONG! It took a LOT of work and wont hold an edge long. Just guessing it is down past the hardening. I have bought a LOT of old Craftool stamps on eBay and am very happy with most of them. Some of the newer Tandy stamps are pretty good, especially for modifying. And, I have bought many just for that purpose, both old and new, since I can't afford many Barry King or other high end tools. I always look for the tools with the best face possible to make the best detail impression when i buy new or used tools, then modify as needed to match what I want/need. I was told once that Al Stohlman always said Craftool stamps are very good tools...as long as you have files to make them work how you want them to, and I agree. One last thing, and the most important of all; DON'T SKIMP ON A SWIVEL KNIFE BLADE!!! Get a good blade, the best you can afford, keep it sharp and stripped, and practice every day if you can. You can use a cheap swivel knife with a good blade a lot better than a good knife with a cheap blade! Remember, the swivel knife cut is the foundation the rest of your tooling builds on.

Has anyone who went to the IFOLG show in Nashville posted any pics anywhere here? I have looked, but not found any, though with my eyes I might have overlooked them somewhere. The Shows album is empty. I was supposed to make it to the show, but had an opportunity to go to a family reunion two weeks before, and my boss said I couldn't do both, so I went to the most important event. I had a wonderful time, and saw some of my grandkids for the first time. I took some of my tools and some scrap leather, and my nephew (who's just starting out in leather craft) and I talked leather, & I gave him some pointers and answered questions for him. But, I couldn't help thinking about the show and the wonderful pieces, events, and people I was missing. If you have pics, please post them for those less fortunate of us who missed out to enjoy! Thanks!

I will definately agree with any & everyone who gives Kudos to Springfield Leather!!! I have pretty much given up on Tandy anymore, especially when it comes to leather and stamping tools....ok, most everything. I look for older Craftools on ebay as they are better than the new ones, and I can usually get them much cheaper as well! I've been talkig to a friend of mine in my local leather guild about buying leather as a group from his supplier (Wicket & Craig) so we can get a bulk price. Now just witing for his next order. While I was down in Tulsa recently, I checked out E.C. Leather, and their leather is better quality than Tandy's, and it seemed cheaper as well!! I will be ordering a side from them if my friend doesn't need to order from W & C soon. E.C. also had a very wide selection of different leathers, and finishing supplies. I don't think they have a web site, but look in LCS&J for their ad and give them a call for a catalog. Also, don't overlook S-T Leather for good prices and some hard to find items. I used to order a lot from Hidecrafter, but since their buy-out, haven't dealt with them much. Has anyone ordered from them recently? I loved their Pro Series (right name?) tools. High quality tools at a good price, and their regular stamping tools were better than Tandy's at the same price. I hope they stay in business and don't buckle under & start selling Craftools.

Hi all, Thought I would post this project I finished for a customer. He has a custom made knife he wanted a frontier style sheath for. He had a picture of the basic style sheath he wanted, which helped. This is the first sheath of this style I have done. These normally have rawhide outer shells, but he wanted me to use his distressed upholstery leather to save himself some money. No problem.....ok, maybe a little problem. I had to do some experimenting, and use some different techniques to get this to go together, stay formed properly, and look right. I made the horsehair tassles, and "antiqued" all the tin cones, as well. I learned quite a lot from this project, and want to thank Chuck Burrows for his advice on this project. Any and all critiques/suggestions are welcome.

Keep your spirits up, and keep plugging away at kicking that cancer's ass!!! If you need some real good personal instruction, you might want to look into the Central Indiana Leathercrafter's Guild in Indianapolis. I know it's a bit of a drive from Muncie down there, but if you can make it to one of their meetings, I know you won't forget it!!! They are a great bunch of folks there. I looked on this forum's site, but couldn't find any address or contact info for them, though I'm sure it's got to be here somewhere!! If I remember correctly, they have their won website, so you should be able to Google it. You could also check at the Tandy store in Indy to see when their classes are held. I also know of a lady who lives in Portland who used to teach leathercraft, and who is a master, and Al Stholman Award holder. If I can find her address & phone number (I have here somewhere safe, so I probably can't find it), I'll contact her and see if she can help you. If I find out something, I'll contact you with the info.

Hello all. It's been a while since I've posted here. But, I thought this deserved a posting, I guess as a kind of warning to others out there who might find themselves in a similar situation as we in the Northwest Indiana area found ourselves this week. Tandy Leather Factory in Merrillville, IN closed up today, Saturday, Sept 11, 2010. There was no notice given to store patrons, local leather guild members, or other groups. Our local leather guild used the store about every other month for meetings, alternating with a local church for the monthly meetings. We were scheduled to meet at the store tomorrow, Sunday. Tandy's home office sent a fellow, who arrived Wednesday morning, to close the store. He fired both employees that morning, which following their normal protocol, is SOP. The last business day for the store was set to be today. I called Wednesday morning to talk to the manager, only to find out he was no longer there, so I asked for the other employee, only to be told he was no longer there either. When I identified myself and asked what was going on, I was told they are closing the store, effective Saturday. When I asked if any patrons were going to be called, I was told "no." Had I not called that day, no one in our guild would have known anything till it was too late. We had some of our personal things in that store, that, luckily, the now former manager was able to get out before he left that day. But, had he not been able to do that,and I hadn't called that day, we would not have been able to retrieve our property unless we got lucky and someone happened to go in for supplies, and then warned the rest of us. In the opinion of everybody I talked to when I phoned them to warn about the closing, this was just DEAD WRONG!!!! Now, to be fair to Tandy, we had all known that the store wasn't doing well and would probably close, since things just weren't improving fast enough. None of us were surprised that much with the closing of the store. However, we were all shocked with the suddenness of the closing, and absolutely no notice being given, or even attempted. When I talked to the former mgr, he said that the "closer" hadn't asked him about anyone needing to be called, or any upcoming events (classes, demos, etc) that needed to be canceled. Imagine the local Boy Scouts troop, or 4H group, or other group, coming in for a class, only to find out that the store is closed!! Just imagine what kind of image that would give them of Tandy Leather Factory!! Several of us had, at one time or another, talked to representatives of Tandy, higher up than the regional mgr, who assured us that, unlike the closing in the late '90's, this time IF the store closed, they would give plenty of notice so we could go in and get supplies, etc, and that they would have store closing sales prices, though they had no plans to close the store. Let me repeat, none of us were shocked at the fact the store closed. Very few of the folks I've talked to are angry that the store closed, just at the way they did it. Tandy is going to open a store in Ft Wayne, IN on Sept 27, 2010 that is to "replace this one." The address will be: 3822 West Jefferson Blvd, Unit A, Ft Wayne, IN 46804. Phone:(260)432-6761 Fax:(260)436-5824 Toll Free:(877)856-0009 I guess my warning to others would be that if your local store isn't doing all that well, don't leave anything there, and have backup vendors ready, because you probably won't have notice if your local store closes. I, for one, along with most, if not all of my guild members, will never be able to trust Tandy again, and several have vowed never to purchase from Tandy again, though that will be hard to do, since Tandy supplies several other vendor companies with products (something I found out at the store today!!)they sell to us. I apologize for the long rant, and this is not an attempt to stop folks from patronizing Tandy Leather Factory, or to liable them. Everything stated above is true and verifiable.

This is the first time I have seen this problem using Saddle Sheen myself. I did get it to happen once several years ago when I sprayed Super Sheen over the top of Neat Lac (or was it the other way around?), but I did that on purpose to see how it would react. Wifey said that the bracelets were dry when she sprayed the finish on them, and she doesn't know anything about oiling. Heck, they had been dyed about 6 hrs before she sprayed them. At the store, we experimented every way we thought we might get the problem to happen. I dyed a piece of scrap with the same dye she used and let the piece dry for about 45 mins, then took it outside, where the temp was about 40, and sprayed the heck out of it, brought it back in,then sprayed again in about 30 mins, so thick that there was actually liquid pooling on the surface. The scrap piece still didn't crack, everything soaked in well, and it didn't look like it was plastic. The only thing we can figure is possibly one of two things. First, we got a bad can of finish, or second, wifey got a bad batch of bracelets. Some of them are unevenly "tanned" from sunlight, and some have a glazed look to them, leading us to lean towards the bad bracelets. I'm having her do another one tonight, where I can observe her processes and technique, and we will see how it goes.

Hello to all. I haven't posted in quite a while - haven't even had time to peruse the forum - but I figured with all the knowlegable folks here, someone can give me/us the answer to a major delima. My wife is making some bracelets and is having major finishing problems. She dyed them with the eco-flo dye, then sprayed them with Saddle Sheen (2 coats) as a resist for antiqueing. Here's the problem. After the Saddle Sheen dryed, when the bracelet is flexed at all,the finish cracks...BADLY! The bracelet that is the worst had an almost plastic feel and look to it. When I rubbed my fingernail across it, the finish started peeling right off. One section peeled off in one big piece. We took the bracelets to our local Tandy store and showed them to the manager, since I had no real good idea why they did this. He and I experimented with the same dye (out of the same bottle) and his cans of Saddle Sheen. No matter what we did, we couldn't duplicate the problem. I even sprayed a coat on so heavy that it actually pooled on the leather, but still the problem was not duplicated. Can anybody tell me what could be the problem, so I can help my wife correct it? She only started doing leatherwork, and this is rapidly making her question her decision, especially since she is mainly going to do it for profit, not just fun like me. HELP!!!!!!!