jpless77

Thanks yall

I'm having a problem with the white tiger thread getting dirty or grayish during stitching. Has anyone experienced this or possibly know how to prevent it? Thanks

Thank you all for the insight. Big help!

It's a left twist #6 cord from Campbell Randall. I think the problem might be I try to run a single length of cord when stitching a belt versus breaking it down into smaller lengths. More thread more problems I guess. How do you break your belt stitching up?

Thanks

Does anyone have any tricks to keep linen thread from twisting so bad while hand sewing? Thanks in advance.

Thank y'all very much, big help

Thank you all for the responses. What do you mean by "casting". I'm not familiar with the technique.

I'm new to linen thread for hand stitching. Can anyone help me with finishing suggestions? I know I can't clip and melt like nylons or polys so any feedback would help, thanks.

Thank you for the feedback.

I've recently been making firefighter shields. On test pieces I've been finishing them with lci clear-lac for moisture resistance and hardness. I'm looking for an alternative because I'm naturally concerned with the flammability although Cairns leather fire hats are dipped in pine resin and painted with enamel paints. Am I being overly cautious or should I use tan kote, resolene, etc? Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback

I've been practicing with a couple Barry King petal lifters as well as a ck undershot beveler. In Likewise's book they say that a lifter is never an undershot and an undershot is never a lifter, but some schools of thought say the lifters can do both. Either way I'd appreciate any incite or tricks with the use of these tools. The undershot works for the tight inside curves of petals, but the lifters only pinch the cuts and put a dark burnish in the scallop( I understand casing plays on this but that's workable), and they don't seem to lift, but push back the petal exposing raw leather. I hope this makes sense. Thanks in advance for the look.

Thanks for the feedback

I'm working on a memo cover and a bible cover with floral carving on the outsides. I'm planning on antiquing the design and was curious about when and if I could burnish the edges. Should I put the piece together, sew, burnish and then antique or can I antique, burnish the edges and then finish with a LAC coat? Thanks in advance.

I've found that, if the cut is right, you give up no depth but you do lose the darkened tooled area of the beveler.

Hello all. I'm having some issues with beveling the inner and outter scallops of smaller flowers and leaves. I currently use a handful of craftool checkerd bevelers and I find the smaller bevellers leave tool marks. I've been slowly purchasing some King tools but I guess I'll have to get bevelers also (at least smaller ones). Anyhow, is it necessary to bevel the outter edges of flowers, or can I just bevel the petal over-laps toward the center and barground the outside? I hope someone understands this giberish! Thanks in advance, it's appreciated.

Thanks Chief!

Thanks very much for the feedback.

I've found recently, while weave (basket and tri pattern) stamping some wallets, that after completion the once perfect square or rectangle is now distorted and stretched. Can anyone offer some hints or tips to prevent this? Thanks in advance.