MissionVao

I'd just like to add that there seems to be the same exact oil that Pfaff recommends (22/0.865), it's 'OKS 390 – Cutting Oil for all metals'

I'm glad OP understood my reply was strictly limited to Hermes straps It was quite clear since we all know you don't need a sewing machine for a wrist strap and Hermes uses them regardless.

Thank you, Wizcrafts but I'm sorry you went through the trouble of writing a long post when there are tons of nice clear charts for needle and thread sizing out there on the 'net Didn't know there was any confusion regarding those on this topic. I try to use thread sizes when I speak about threads and Singer size when I speak about needles but sometimes I switch when I see other people ignore it. I saw a couple of members did tiny modifications on their machines so they can use slightly bigger needles so I'll look into that if the need arises. But I'd feel more comfortable hand-sewing really thick pieces since I don't do mass production anyway plus it's fun. And I need an excuse to finally make a sewing pony :D

Hermes watch strap is hardly a newbie project, it's more suited to be a test for an experienced leather crafter (test of patience, technique and knowledge). Even someone that has it all in the hands could mess up by now knowing his/her edge finishing chemicals. And even if you were the most talented guy for the job, you'd need tools and machines that are way above the $1250 mark. It's nice that something inspired you to take up the craft but you should learn the basics (which would alleviate your leather type selection troubles), then get the most basic tools, then do easy projects and if you still wanna go further, get a heavy duty sewing machine etc.

Mine doesn't say Mauser anywhere. I've ordered lots of different needles (up to Tex 210/Singer 23) and threads so I'll post update when those arrive

Thank you for the info about needle size, it means a lot. I have to wonder why the manual would say 100 is the max when you say it's 140. I was sewing through 2 layers of 8oz leather with ease so I would never guess that 10oz is too much. The servo is Ho Hsing 600W, g60-1-00-220 to be exact (3000rpm max). Manual for G series: http://www.globalsew.com/data/upload/files/gseriesmanual.pdf So I set it to P1 and set 10spm and it doesn't seem to limit the speed in any way. So I'm guessing it's the pedal 'sensitivity'.

I managed to get a new Pfaff 335 straight from the factory, with a servo motor, couldn't be happier, sews like a beast. But there's two issues. First one is my lack of experience. The manual says I shouldn't be using a needle larger than 69 (or 100 metric) but I doubt it's anything more than a recommendation since the machine can sew through 1cm of vegtan easy. I tried the 69 polyester thread but when I sew 10oz leather straps and belts it's just too thin to look nice. So I took a look at some guides and saw that for that particular oz. (3-4mm) I should use thread size 138-277. Is it safe to use on my machine? Or in other words, would you use any needle you can properly mount or just follow the manual and stick to 69? Saw the same Pfaff 335 in Hermes video and they used at least 2x thicker thread on their watch strap... Anyway, more important issue, my servo. I always read the manual so I'm certain I've used it correctly. Problem is, when I choose the program that should be the slowest one the machine runs like crazy. So I thought maybe it's not the motor, maybe the pedal is too sensitive when it comes to switching between the 'programmed' and 'full speed' modes (press lightly for the former, press all the way for latter). So I always end up sewing by pressing and lifting my foot completely, which is obviously annoying and wrong. Is there a guide for adjusting the pedal sensitivity or something else that might help?

I was wondering about the relation of leather oz. to thread thickness, for various levels of thread visibility and I ran into this (seemingly) awesome guide http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=polyester-thread-information According to the guide for my 8-10oz leather I should use 138-277 thread with my new Pfaff 335 when I sew belts and like the nice plump but not too thick thread. But what troubles me is the manual says I should only be using needle size 33-69, nothing above. Since my machine can sew through whatever leather thickness I can fit under the foot, with ease, plus I saw a Hermes factory video where they use Pfaff 335 with huge needle and thread I have to wonder who's right.

Okay I've made a decision since I ran into an unexpected find - (white/new) Pfaff 335 with servo motor, 1 year warranty, $1500. My guess is it has the same power as 1245 but with very *very* useful cylinder bed. If someone thinks I'm making a mistake please speak soon

Thank you for that advice as well. I'm from the capital, and I'm very young too so I had to google what SFOR is, forgive me if that sounds weird. Anyway, leatherworking is really exotic over here, for some reason, all my tools had to be imported from Canada and the machines are sold almost exclusively in used condition. Only 1 company imports the heavy duty ones. All because as a hobby it's nonexistent. Those who practice it for commercial reasons find a way but for others it's a pain in the bum. That's why I find this forum very valuable

Thank you, Constabulary, that's the exact type of advice I was hoping to hear I know I don't need the additional feed of the 1246 but I was wondering if it's in undoubtedly better condition than 1245 then it would be a lesser risk. Double needle sure is handy, since I could sew with single too, but not necessary of course. Parts are no issue, I'm ordering online and over here in Europe they are fairly easy to find.

Hi everyone, I was searching for sewing machines for light and medium weight leather with walking foot. I'd be sewing everything lambskin, several layers of nappa, all the way to 1 layer of 1/4'' belt leather, nothing thicker than that. Now the problem is I won't be able to try any of these and my choices are extremely limited where I'm at, so I would ask for your quick assistance. I'll post a photo and brief condition description, with cost so you can tell me which one seems reasonable Of course I'd ask the owner additional questions, this is just a start. Pfaff 1245, 'in excellent condition', $850, http://i.imgur.com/RbaF6VN.jpg Pfaff 1246, 'fully refurbished', $? , http://i.imgur.com/i1Mg3b6.jpg http://i.imgur.com/a7sQG2d.jpg Pfaff 196-H3, 'Refurbished, new silent motor, new belt, no scratches, warranty' $1200 http://i.imgur.com/GEdhEdm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/HtmdVXv.jpg There are also two much cheaper machines that I'm posting just because I don't know enough about machines to conclude if they would be less-than-perfect but still a solution. Juki LH-515, $350 (I know it's not a walking foot one, it's up to you to tell me if it's simply impossible to use with soft leather) http://i.imgur.com/nixJ7BG.jpg The other 'not so good' one is Necchi 840-134, $450, walking foot, with binding option but very scruffy looking http://i.imgur.com/A9xhjDB.jpg I read most of forum topics that mention all of these and if I knew they all work and I had a lot of money I know which one I'd choose. But the real problem here is deducting their real condition by images and that's where I need someone far more experienced.