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gearsmithy

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Posts posted by gearsmithy

  9. Posted · Report reply

    They both have their place. The round definitely has more strength than the slot, but slots make for quicker lacing jobs (if you have a 3-4 slot chisel). if your braid requires that you go back through the hole like a mexican round braid then a round hole is the only way to go. For simple cordovan braids I prefer slots because it gives you a cleaner edge. In any case if the joint is under stress you should go with a punched hole. You can close the gaps left in the leather from hole punches by lightly wetting the edge after lacing, this will tighten up the seam and make for a nicer edge. For a bible cover I imagine you could get away with slot, depending of course on the braid you're doing.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Yep bruce, my first one.Thanks guys for the kind words. I hope i can find some more time to do this now..lol I am going to do this pattern a couple more times, then try a wallet. Hopefully all goes well. I do have a quick question though, do you guys cement your leather down before you case or after?

    Thanks,

    Chris

    I used to spread rubber cement on with an old credit card on both the leather and the carboard before casing. Now I rarely even cement my workpiece to the cardboard. With smaller pieces it helps to move the piece around when tooling and keep it from stretching but with larger one's there really isn't a need for it. Make sure you're using the cardboard that has a shiny side. It repels water better than the rouge side, otherwise it can get soggy if you opt for the "soak and wait" casing method.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I was discussing a similar project with one of my biker bros this last weekend. He has a version that is rather nice except now that it is old and comfortably broke in his tools fall out. In talking looking at it we both realized it was because the ovals (in his case circles) at the end of the bag did not have "ears" that folded in over the tools and the result was a hole that the tools could fall out of.

    I don't have a pattern, but I would absolutely not build one without the ears or flaps that could fold in over the tools.

    I had the whole distortion problem too. Eventually I started making plastic shells for my toolbags. Now I put them on everything that needs structural support. a lot of my customers tell me that my pieces feel like "a piece of armor" because of the shell. Look into high density polyethylene. You can fabricate it just like steel and all you need is an exacto knife and a soldering iron. shells will keep the bag in shape and prevent distortion.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I've never been very good at following instructions so I learned the hard way. I would get an idea in my head and then try to figure it out on my own. I would lean a little bit about how to do something and then take a little further on my own. I screwed up many projects but sometimes I come up with new ways of doing things. I think I prefer it that way, keeps me on my toes. I started out carving leather on my kitchen floor (space is an expensive comodity in Chicago). Now I have a little dedicated workshop setup in my bedroom entirely paid for by my pieces.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Kate,

    Picked some up today and tried on scrap. Really easy to use and to lift off. One and two coats worked but, I'd feel safer with 2 coats. I didn't spray but, daubed the dye on.

    But, it's a good thing yours sat on the shelf for a year....WOW, strong amonia odor while the lid is off.

    I'm working on a simple holster and will use the resist on the initials and post (if holster turns out ok).

    Thanks for the tip/idea

    *UPDATE* Heavy daubing is NOT a good thing. It came up under the latex. Spraying like Kate would be much better....so much for the black holster with brown initials..

    Spray works the best, but you can daub it too, just be sure to get the latex into your cut lines. When you cut the grain you expose some of the flesh, which acts like a wick that dye can seep through and get under the latex. If you want to brush your dye on my experience has been to cover the area you want to resist with latex including the cut lines beside the raised portion. this will cover the flesh side and prevent wicking. Then after you brush on your dye, peel back the latex and with a very fine brush "finish" the piece.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    MatthewD,

    Thanks, I have no idea how many hours are in this. I've messed it up a few times and had to start from scratch. The shell was something that i've never done before so i had to figure out how to fabricate plastic. I think in the end I'm charging the customer for 10 total hours of work. In actuality I probably spent closer to 25 but I don't charge for my mistakes and i don't charge for things I've never done before (i.e. the shell).

    Johanna,

    Sure! I never know where to put things

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