OurJud

Thanks, it helps a lot as I wrongly presumed there must have been a different way to secure the thread to the needle with the thinner stuff. Had no idea it could still be pierced in the same way as the thicker stuff. One of the reasons I thought this was because I thought the strength of the thread would be compromised and maybe snap as you're pulling it through the leather.

Thanks, Simon David, I didn't make myself very clear. I wasn't meaning how is the stitching finished, I meant how is the thinner thread secured to the needle before stitching. As I say, with the tiger thread and flat waxed stuff, it's easy to push the needle through the strands of the thread to form the noose knot, but how would it be done with thread that's too thin to get the needle through?

Thanks. So the bigger the first number, the thinner the thread? Rather than start a new thread, can I quickly ask how the thinner thread is tied off when saddle stitching? I know that for the tiger thread/flat waxed thread, the needle is fed through the thread itself, but if the thread is too thin for this, then what? Do we simply tie a knot in it?

I've been using 0.8mm tiger thread, but find it just a little too thick for my small wallet projects. Someone said I should try 18/4 waxed linen, but I'm afraid these numbers mean nothing to me. I understand one of the numbers refers to the number of strands or something, but what I need to know when I'm buying thread is how thick it is. Seems obvious to me, but apparently I'm on my own, judging my how many manufactures give the X/X measurements. So, can someone please explain what I need to be searching for if I want strong, thin hand sewing thread (0.6mm or under). Thanks.

Ah well, turns out this leather merchant is a cobblers supplier and only has the really think stuff. I knew it was too good to be true

Funnily enough I got a similar response from the upholsterers. They said they had plenty of vinyl but very little leather. I'm trying to stay optimistic about this other guy, but I half suspect that when I call tomorrow my finding will be similar to yours, Joe; either leather that's too thick or scraps too small to be of any use.

Today I called at an upholsterers in my local town centre that I'd never noticed before, to ask if they had any scraps. He said they had little dealings with leather and that what they did have wouldn't suit my needs. He pointed me towards a cobblers across the street and told me to ask there. I did, but again drew a blank as all his leather comes pre-cut. This guy in turn told me about a shop a few streets away, so off I went to take a look. When I got there it was closed and I felt sure by the condition of the outside and the grotty windows that it hadn't been active for many a year. However, I called at a house opposite and the guy says the place is still active and that he'll be in tomorrow. There's a small sign in the window that says, "Leather Merchant", and I must confess the thought of having somewhere so close by, where I can go and inspect the leather before I buy is very exciting. I'll update after I've checked him out tomorrow.

If anyone has any veg tan off-cuts / panels in black or dark brown (2oz / 1mm) I'd like to discuss purchasing. The off-cuts need to measure at least 20 X 20cm for my planned project. Thanks in advance.

I'm still confused. Is this an in-joke?

Are you drunk, JLSleather? I haven't understood a thing you've said in either of your posts. Maybe it's cos I'm new around here

No, it's a straight awl, or do they call them scratch awls? I chose a scratch awl because I don't like the traditional slanting saddle stitch. I wasn't aware using a straight stitch could create a problem. As I say above, it's a straight awl (no taper after the initial point) and is about 2mm wide. For the Tiger thread I use 002 John James needles. Also, in that I'm using a ruler to mark the holes, is there an easy way to work out the distance between each hole for, say, 10spi?

Prompted by what a couple of posters have said in another thread, I'd like to ask for some advice on my SPI. For the wallet I just made I used some bonded nylon that was thin enough to fit through the eye of a fairly small sewing needle. I paced my holes 5mm apart which is apparently quite course for such thin thread, but here's my problem. I know the correct way is to mark the holes with a wheel or prong iron before pushing through with an awl, but in the absence of such tools I used a metal ruler which I think worked fairly well (straight and evenly spaced holes were achieved). Tomorrow I will be making the same wallet, but using some 0.8mm Tiger thread, so I guess I'll do the holes at the same distance (the thicker thread will be more suited to 5mm spaced holes, yes??) Now what I need to know, is how do you get the holes closer together without risking them breaking through to each other as you push the awl through? I've experimented with the Tiger thread on some scraps, and I had to make fairly big holes in order to get the thread and needle through (baring in mind the thread has to go through the same hole twice). Maybe it's because I'm not using veg tan, but I just don't see how I can get the holes that close to each other without them breaking through. The awl I use is, I'm guessing, about as thin as they come, and I have to push it quite high up the shaft to get the holes big enough.

Because I'm still learning and I don't know these things? The wallet I did earlier was stitched with bonded nylon thin enough to fit through the eye of a regular sewing needle. The holes were paced at 5mm apart and I don't think it looks particularly odd. As I've already said, maybe it's because I'm using crap / the wrong leather, but there's no way I could put the sewing holes any closer together without risking a break-through as I push the awl through.

Thanks, Matt, I'll PM you just as soon as I've typed this. I'm reluctant to go tighter than 5mm because I'm afraid the holes will split into one another as I push the awl through.

Just a couple of quickies; What is the thinnest tiger thread available? And what kind of thread would you recommend if I wanted to go thinner than the thinnest Tiger thread? I found a seller on Etsy who has it at 0.6mm, but don't know if this is the thinnest. The way I mark my holes is unorthodox, but it works. I hold a steel ruler along my stitch line and then mark the holes with an awl at 5mm intervals. I find that this way I can move the ruler about until I get equal spaces at either end. Anyway, I'm babbling. The point I'm getting to is that I like a thin stitch line and am wondering what's the best thin thread to go for if Tiger thread doesn't go thin enough.