mrtreat32

I definitely dont want to do more stitches per inch. In fact I want to try out 9spi pretty soon. Im just starting out but Im interested in making smaller items. Maybe the thread is too big. Im a bit confused on how sizing works since it seems like different manufacturers label them differently? http://www.fineleatherworking.com/linen-thread/waxed-linen-black Here is a picture that shows you the thread Im using and what the size looks like for reference. It says they are using it on 9spi and it looks ok. I ordered 2 small spools of tiger thread that I have not yet tried. one .008 and .006. The Fil au chinois 432 that I mentioned looks very similar in thickness to the .006 tiger thread. A lot of folks from what I read seem to like the 1mm tiger thread..seems like that would be big unless they are stitching large items with 5spi or less? thank you. I have a ton to learn

Looking around at some websites online who have nice looking leather goods and I noticed that their stitches dont seem to touch one another or overlap the way mine do. ( Im just starting out) Is this a combination of a bigger hole being punched with a smaller thread or maybe that combined with them pulling the stitches tighter than I am? Just curious on how someone could achieve this and is it a sign of a better stitch? Originally I thought that cleaner stitches should fill out the hole and overlap ever so slightly. by the way I am using a Douglas slim blade and fl au chinois thread 432 practicing 7spi at the moment. Would I want to buy thinner thread to achieve this? here are a few examples http://img.purseforum.com/attachments/premier-designers/hermes/authenticate-this-hermes/1861743d1346950398-archive-6-01-13-authenticate-this-hermes-bag-stitching1-800x598-.jpg http://www.theblackacre.net/shop/legion-trucker-wallet-russet

I ordered the Barry King awl handle and a bob douglas awl blade. The Barry King awl handle comes with 2 awl nuts with 4 size holes total (2 on each side). The one that my blade fits into properly the blade only goes in about 1/2 inch or less leaving a lot of blade exposed. I believe the bob douglas blades are 2.5". Im thinking it would be easier to control the angle of the holes Im stabbing if the blade was shorter. Any suggestions? Is my best bet to just cut a small amount of the blade off so its shorter? I noticed the blade isnt pointed on the handle end but still tapers and has 4 sides..if I was to cut it I can just cut it straight across correct? brand new to leatherworking so still learning thanks

-If I was going to spend that much I would probably bite the bullet and pay the extra $25 and get the vergez based just on how it looks alone. Looks heavy and beautifully designed even if they function pretty much the same...either that or get one much cheaper one. When you say it just scratches the leather do you literally mean I could take a scratch awl and ruler and get the same effect? If so I might go that route in the meantime. A stitching groover like the versa that I ordered normally isnt used on the same projects as a Vergez pricking iron. correct? Seems like groovers are used with larger stitches and a more rustic look? I could be totally off base just the idea I get from looking around on the net. - Bob Douglas awl seems pretty great but I have nothing to compare it too so its hard to say. I ordered a Barry king awl handle to go with it that came with 2 size collet nuts. The one that the blade fits into works but the blade only goes about a half inch in leaving about 2 inches of blade exposed. Seems a bit long and feel like I could get better control of the angle if there was less blade exposed. I emailed Barry King this morning and gonna try to figure out how to make it work. (Very beautiful awl handle btw) Kinda wish I started off with a Tandy awl or something so I would know what good qualities to look for -The clam is very long. I tried to put it more vertical but I need to sit in a very high chair to achieve that. When I do that its more comfortable and easier to see what Im doing. Gonna use a chair like that or cut a few inches off the bottom of the clam. When you pre punch the holes with a cork board you lay the piece of leather down on cork or you hold it in the clam with the cork behind it? -Is it pretty standard to use a scratch awl to make a round hole in the corners? Or something you picked up overtime. Definitely going to order a pricking iron (9spi) but feel using the awl is a nice place to start. Thank you for all the feedback Im learning a ton just reading on here.

I think you mentioned in the past that you have the vergez scratch compass. Do you happen to have a picture of the type of line it makes on the leather? Is it just a scratch or there is a groove that you can lay the stitches into? I ordered the versa groover from bob douglas but its on back order and Im thinking of picking up the compass from vergez as well.

that sounds like some great advice . I tried it this way as you described while practicing and I got much better results. The al stohlman book says that the leather will close up if they are done ahead but I didnt have this problem when I tried it out. But I also have been only using a single piece of leather to practice on probably 3oz thick total. Maybe this will change when I start working on actual projects. What is the correct angle to switch to when coming to the end of a straight line and turning onto the next. Is it a matter of preference or is there some type of general rule of thumb. Say I was sewing towards myself as I have been practicing with holes facing this way ///////

I remember from the other thread speaking with you. I ordered a ton of stuff but decided to hold off on the Vergez pricking irons and in the meantime picked up some other stuff to start out with. Decided to get the clam also which I didnt plan on buying originally. I got a #7overstitch wheel from bruce johnson and have been using that with a bob douglas awl blade. I figured it would be nice to start out this way and see how it would be done by hand without a pricking iron. Kinda like learning the basic skills and foundation before jumping ahead. From my brief time with the tools I can see how the iron will eventually make everything a lot neater! My stitches have been coming out decent for just beginning but the irons seem like all the angles would be Exact. Maybe Im over simplyfiying it but I imagine it would be almost hard to mess up using a iron?? Right now as I mentioned Im having to look at the blade very closely before I punch each hole to make sure the angle is consistent which is very time consuming. The idea of marking the awl like you mentioned seems like it could help a bit with that in the meantime. Im finding the clam I ordered to also be causing a bit of trouble since the angle is with the project facing down. It makes the back of the work not visible so its hard to see how the stitching looks without taking it out of the clamp. Im assuming this is something I will get better at with time. I don't have any experience with stitching ponies so I wouldn't know how to compare it to the clam at the moment. But the vertical position of the pony seems like it would be a bit more intuitive. thanks for the feedback on my original thread. I feel like I picked up some good equipment based on your recommendations

thanks a lot of helpful info. Wondering if there is something not as permanent as marker that I could use. Reason being is my awl blade attaches to the handle by a collet nut so depending on starting position a 45 degree angle will vary each time I put it on. That thread brought up a lot of good points and I think I can get better results in a shorter amount of time by stabbing multiple holes at one time but no one really seemed to mention why it is best to do it one at a time. If there is a good reason Im willing to practice it that way so I dont get too comfortable doing it the wrong way.

Just received my leather tools in the mail this week and have started practicing my stitching before I attempt any actual projects. I have pretty much just been making lines of stitching to get my technique down. I have read a ton on here as well as watching video tutorials online. Im basically trying to get Al stohlmans technique down directly from him book... I figured even though holding the awl and 2 needles at the same time seems trickier than some other methods it would be best to start out this way and suck it up before I develop any bad habits. Results havent been horrible considering Im just starting out but I tried a few times stabbing multiple holes at once rather than just one at a time recommended by "art of hand sewing" and it seems much easier to get the angle more consistent if Im not stithcing after every hole. Does anyone on here prefer stabbing multiple holes at once? If not how do u get the same angle every time without taking a close look at the blade angle before every stitch? Any tips would be appreciated. Would making a small line on the awl with a sharpie or something else maybe help with seeing the consistent angle to stab? thanks

Thanks everyone. Lots of helpful info! I placed orders the other day and have already racked up quite a bill. Pretty sure I have most of the tools I need to start out and a few I realize now probably didnt need right away. But since everyone had such great info I feel good that I got some quality stuff that should last me a long time and wont feel the urge to upgrade in 3 months. Next purchase is going to need to be some leather so I can actually start learning how to use all the tools I ordered. Was gonna ask for recommendations. I mentioned earlier that the stuff Im interested in working on would mostly be accessories (wallets, key chains, straps and pockets for canvas bags, belts etc). I dont have any interest as of now in carving or dying my own leather. Do you have a recommendation for a quality leather that won't break the bank for small accessories projects? What is a good all around oz to learn on that's good for those kinds of projects? I like the look of Tanner Goods which lists 3.5 oz/tooling leather. Should I mostly be looking at the "tooling" section on the supply sites (I'm on Maverik). They look similiar to "veg shoulder," but I'm not sure what that is. I also really like chromoexcel but is that going to be pricey? I know a lot of people on here dye their own leather. Is there a specific type of leather that they use or do they use natural? I'm sorry for all the questions. I've looked around on other questions but haven't seen these specific questions answered. You guys have been a big help.

Looks like you ordered some great stuff from what research I have done. Im going to start ordering my stuff today! Its a bit overwhelming since to get all the different stuff I want Im going to be ordering from 5 or more places. Not to mention the start up cost for good quality tools. You mentioned the Douglas Awl blade was backordered. Do you know if that was for a specific size? I was going to order one but if thats the case I think I will order the Vergez Blanchard awl. Will you be using the compass to scratch a line for your stitching or are you planning on getting some type of groover as well?

Thanks so much for the feedback. Still quite a few questions if you dont mind.Trying to gather all the correct information and make the best decisions before I make the investment and place my orders online. Looked at a few leather items I have purchased in the past and measured out the stitches per inch to get a idea of the look. A bit undecided on if maybe I should start with the 9spi instead. I like the look of the small stitching but that would change what needles and thread I would need to use correct? And do you think learning with smaller stitching is a bad idea since maybe its harder to work with? I figured the 9 might be the way to go since it would be easier to manually punch the holes with a awl if I wanted less than 9spi. You also mentioned the overstitch wheel. Would that be for a different spi count or you use that before you go to work with the pricking iron? The edge compass you mentioned is similar to a stitching groover but just a different style of doing things? The edge compass scratches a straight line which you follow with the pricking iron? Is this correct? haha Would you ever use a stitching groover with a pricking iron and would you need a special one for smaller stitching so that the surrounding channel isnt too chunky for the stitching? Sorry for so many questions. But trying to start anything new from scratch there is so much to learn. thank you

Thanks for all the useful info. I know it sounds crazy investing a lot into a hobby Im just starting but I would rather get the right tools the first time around and not buy a bunch that I will never use. But I dont quite have the budget to spend a lot on all tools so Im trying to see which ones are worth investing in from the start After reading what you wrote and searching around endless sites on the internet and gathering information Im leaning towards starting off with these purchases. Would love to get feedback or thoughts. *Pricking iron- Vergez blanchard (someone on ebay seems to have all sizes) was going to get a small 4tooth iron and maybe a 2tooth for edges? I was leaning towards starting out with 7spi. Does that sound like a good all around size to start with? (mostly interested in wallets, belts, phone case type projects) *Douglas Awl needle but going with a different cheaper handle. Will the Vergez handle fit a Douglas awl blade? Barry King handles look really nice also *Alvin cutting mat to work on *Tandy Leather Pony (Is this one ok to start off with or anything a little more money that is a decent upgrade without spending too much) *After those above purchases going to have to pick up the rest for now with budget in mind. Probably going to need a stitching groover,steel rulers, utility knife, and maybe a edge beveler(not sure on size to get). Is there a budget friendly step up on these types of things over tandy where I can get some decent tools but not go over my budget? thanks

Just now getting into leather working and have been reading about what tools I need to start out with for basic leather projects (belts, card holder, straps for bags) on multiple forums. I also picked up the Art of Hand Sewing Leather. I'm primarily interested in hand stitching. I would rather spend a bit more money and get a smaller amount of higher quality tools than buying a kit from Tandy. Seems that a good quality awl (Barry King Awl Handle) and needles are important.What about an overstitch wheel or stitching groover? I'm looking for a list of the basic tools and which tools I should spend the extra money on. I'm a chef and would recommend to splurge on good knives and pans but go with a basic cutting board and vegetable peeler, for example. Do you have recommendations for best tools to start? What tools should I invest some extra money on? Do I need a lacing pony if I'm going to be hand stitching? Finally, do you have a recommendation for a decent quality rotary punch for snaps? What's the best mid-priced all around type of knife and brand you would recommend?