tnestes

Here's my latest saddle, another black wade (just got an order for yet another one of these), built on a Douglas 38 wade tree by Rick Reed. I used select Wickett and Craig leather, with rigging by Herb Bork. I changed my groundseat method on this particular saddle, in order to achieve a more "streamlined" appearance. This groundseat method is actually a combination of three other methods I've used, and I think this new method is by far the best. I know the lady I made the saddle for in California thinks so. I've also put in a photo of a fully carved fender on a saddle I've almost completed as well. The carved fender is on number one Hermann Oak leather. In terms of floral carving, I find that Hermann Oak carves better. I do not have to sharpen my swivel knife anywhere near as much than when using Wickett and Craig. However, the W & C seems to stamp as good as any. Those are just my findings. I'll end with this note. So many "custom" makers are pricing saddles with good trees and better leather (W & C; Hermann Oak, etc.) for ranges like $1500 to maybe $2000 base prices. How the heck are these people doing this???????? My material prices ALONE for a saddle with the best materials are around $1300 to $1400. Maybe some of these guys don't care that they are not making anything on their labor? I don't know, and I AM CERTAINLY NOT TRYING TO BE CRITICAL, I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND, THAT'S ALL. Anyway, I can't wait to get my floral carved saddle up here in a few weeks. It will also be posted on my website- www.estessaddlery.com

I'm going to add this in here, too. I FULLY DISAGREE WITH ANYONE SAYING THAT AN "INSKIRT" RIGGING IS THE STRONGEST RIGGING!!! I have NEVER heard that until reading this forum. Ray Holes was noted for advising people wanting working saddles to stay away from in-skirt riggings. I agree, and it does not really matter "how" they are put in in the long run. They will eventually pull out under heavy use. I lost count of how many I've repaired and replaced, and they were all constructed using different methods, but the one thing they ALL had in common, THE RIGGING PULLED OUT- PERIOD. I believe they are the WEAKEST rigging. As a saddle maker, though, I'll say this, too. The in-skirt rigging is the easiest method on the maker. HMMMMMMMM???

Hello, I've heard arguments against the flat plate rigging (which is anything but "flat) from several circles. It is undeniably very strong, but the facts are that it adds not only bulk, but additional weight, too. Herb Bork makes a number 100 ring rigging that's a combination dee and "o" ring that I really like, (more importantly, should I say, that my customers like!). The supporting leather (that attaches to the tree) wraps around a flat section of the ring for even "pull" when cinching up or roping- like a regular dee. But the rest of the ring is round with a huge connector for the leather going to the cantle and back ring. I connect mine with four stainless steel screws on each side of the front of the tree, along with a few nails. For strength, I'd put this up against anything. Also, I like to to observe saddles in retrospect. There have been more cows and steers roped of of saddles with rings and dees than plate rigged saddles ever thought about. I don't have anything against a flat plate rigging, it's just that I don't think it's necessarily the "only" way to go. Ted N. Estes www.estessaddlery.com

The comment on Hermann Oak is interesting. I've never ordered it from Weaver. I usually order it direct, and I've found it's tooling properties to be better than Wickett and Craig. And, H/O cuts and molds better than any to me. Oh well, we all tend to have different experiences.

THANK YOU very much for the compliment. I guess my biggest influence has been Steve Mecum out in Crowheart, Wyoming. The time I spent with him was worth its weight in gold. We spent one whole day just reviewing the finer points of carving. Of course, it still takes practice, practice, and then some more practice!!! I think the importance of quality carving tools cannot be over-emphasized. Ted

THANK YOU! You also have done some very nice work yourself! Ted

Here's a couple of my latest saddles. You can check out some more photos from my website: www.estessaddlery.com Anyone can feel free to let me know what you think. The black wade was made with Wickett and Craig leather. The swellfork with Hermann Oak. Both are on Rick Reed trees- there are no better trees out there- none. There are some as good, though. Ted l

Steve, Sounds like some very good tips. My draw down stand is extremely heavy duty as well, so it shouldn't be any problem positioning the saddle as you stated. THANK YOU, and anyone else who'd like to add something- jump in!!! I'm always willing to try to better my skills. Ted N. Estes www.estessaddlery.com

Hello, I was wondering if anyone could render some good advice on carving swells on a swellfork. This particular saddle has a low, modified association tree, and will not require a welt. I know Harwood offers the advice of glueing the fork cover down (which I do anyway) on his DVDs, but that about all. Any suggestions???? THANKS. Ted N. Estes www.estessaddlery.com