Mungo

The clamps and top-piece mold sounds like the best technique. No holes, no mess. Thanks a lot.

I've never tried wet forming. If I understand correctly, you use small nails to secure the leather very close to the mold. Won't this leave holes in the finished work piece? I'll check back tomorrow to read any replies. Thanks.

Unicorn leather, what keeps the natural treatment you described from going rancid? You live in the UK? I live in Dixie, the U.S. South, where we have high humidity and high temperatures. Thanks.

What conditioner(name brand, type) is best? Thanks for the replies everyone.

Does a leather item need any type of oil or preservative once it has been dyed and had finish applied? It seems like the finish would block any further treatments.

Thanks for the reply Bob! Dover is actually one of the publishers I was considering. They seem to have a lot to choose from.

There are many internet sites that sell images through clip art and pattern books (some with CDs). If I purchase these, am I buying the right to use these as I please? For example, if I bought an image of a horse could I then copy the horse (and subsequently carve) the image onto a leather book cover and sell it? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply Tom! I'll be using 9/10 oz leather so it should work out ok.

I've been asked to make an archery quiver for a friend, and I wanted to carve and tool foliage on it. I read somewhere (I think on this site) doing that, and then bending the leather into basicly a cylinder will open up the knife cuts. The quiver will be between 4" to 4.5" in diameter so it's not a really sharp radius. Will the act of bending the leather it mess up the carving/ tooling? Also, does the leather need to be oiled at any time later on? I usually use the Tandy EcoFlo finish and am wondering if this will seal the leather from oil like Neatsfoot? Thanks again.

I'm using Eco-Flo Professional Clear Matte finish on an archery arm guard and would like to know if the inside (flesh) needs an application of the finish. My thinking is it probably should so it won't absord water, sweat etc. I'm posting on my exceedingly slow laptop, but will read replies later on my I-Phone, so I'll say thank you now.

Looks like I was about to make some expensive mistakes. Thanks for the replies!

I would like to make a Bible cover out of one piece of leather, with the inside having "pockets" that the book covers slip into to keep it from sliding out. I like the stiffness of 9/10 oz leather but will it flex enough to let the book close properly, lay flat, and then not spring back open when closed? If not what weight leather should be used? Also, I suppose the inside pockets should be somewhat thinner leather to allow the book to fully close, so what weight would this need to be? Thanks in advance.

In order to make a single mag carrier, does the leather need to be wetted, and then molded around the magazine? Do you leave the leather on the mag until dry? I saved a photo I found on this site of a beautiful single carrier that was very nice, but my phone didn't save the entire post, just the photo, and now I can't remember who made it or find the post. Thanks.

I'm working on a western holster and need to know if the Eco-Flo finish is supposed to be applied to the interior (flesh side) of the holster. BTW, I offer my thanks in advance since I post on a slow, dial-up laptop, but read the answers on my faster smartphone.

I'm trying to determine which lense power to get, and was wondering if anyone uses these. If so, which lense do you have? I realize this is very subjective, but if there is a consensus, then I'll go with that. Thanks.

Can you use an edge beveler and groover on cased leather, or is it better to wait for the leather to dry after all stamping is completed? Thanks.