Mungo

Update I followed the given advise from yall and it turned out great. I used a 50/50 mix of Resolene and it is not too shiny after all. I think using a too-small test piece of leather gave the illusion of too much shine. Anyway, thanks again.

Thanks everyone.

This is my first time using Resolene so I tried it on scrap pieces first.The first piece received straight undiluted resolene and the second I diluted 50/50 with water. The undiluted was definitely too shiny for my taste and the second was less so, but I would like it to be a little less shiny. Can you dilute it even more and get good results? Thanks

Thanks again.

I mostly make items using the above mentioned thicknesses. I’m considering getting a more expensive edger than I currently own and want to get one for these sizes right now and maybe add others later on. Thanks

Thanks. I think I’ll go ahead and try it.

I’m making a belt and I’m trying to decide which finish to use, SnoSeal or a clear finish from Tandy. Considering that the belt will be flexed constantly and be subjected to the weather and rough use by a kid I’m wondering which would be best. Any thoughts? Thanks

Has anyone applied a finish over Angelus paint? I have Tandy Professional Finish on hand and trying to decide whether to use the finish or SnoSeal. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. I’ll be using those suggestions in the future.

I tried using wet cotton swabs. It helped a little, but not enough.

Sometimes after I’ve sewn my leather work the threads pick up the dye and appear dirty. Is there a way to clean them to make them nice and white again?

Would anyone happen to have a crossdraw pattern for a right-handed person? Thanks

Thanks for the reply Fred!

I have some extra leather I need to store for maybe a year. I was thinking I might apply neatsfoot oil, let it dry for a couple of days, and then put the pieces in a cardboard box. Would this work?

Thank you both! Very helpful.

Can a stitching groover be sharpened or do you just buy a new Grooving blade?

Thanks max. I got a painful case of bursitis from hammering all those rivets. I’ll be getting a hand press for sure.

Thank you for the reply. I’ll get one before I use a bunch of rivets again.

Will the hand presses sold by Tandy, Springfield, et al, set tubular (hollow rivets)? After making the bandolier in the Show off section by using a ball peen hammer, section I now have a painful case of bursitis and would like to avoid this in the future. Thanks

We were discussing authentic old west bandoliers in the holster section, and I decided to make one. It’s not perfect by any means, but it is at least serviceable. It is 66” in length with fifty .44-.40 loops. I used a buckle on it because at least some bandoliers had them. I saw some that did not. Some were short and some were long in the period photos I saw. I did go ahead and use hollow rivets, but I used two between each loop instead of one. I incised a simple botanical pattern rather than fully carved -and- stamped designs because many of the old holsters and leather goods used similar techniques. Most of the period bandoliers appeared to have had no decoration at all. I didn’t spend a lot of time on the edges because I just wasn’t interested in that for this project. The dye is the Tandy antique gel and sealed with Sno-Seal. Mods; if my photo sizes are too large, just delete or whatever else you need to do. I could not figure out how to make them smaller.

It looks like a rivet base between the loops just to the left of the left-most bullet. I think. The photo in the book is slightly clearer than the posted photo.

How much of the rivet (hollow type) should be protrude through the leather pieces? Using a 5/16” rivet leaves a little less rhan 2/16” coming through to be peened over. I should probably use a 7/16” rivet, yes? BTW Sinpac, those are beautiful California holsters.

Sorry, but I’m not sure I should do that due to copywrite laws. Maybe someone with access to the book can take a look.

I’m wanting to make a bandolier or cartridge belt, and be as authentic as possible. I’ve been researching old west gear and noticed in the book, Packing Iron, that the bullet loops on one belt(dated 1875-1880), page 93, appear to be attached with hollow rivets. I thought hollow rivets were a modern innovation, but apparently not. If any of you have the book have a look and tell me what you think. I’m seriously considering using these instead of sewing the loops.

Does anyone have any info on historical ammo bandoliers from the old west? I have seen photos of Pancho Villa wearing them. His carriers had buckles on them so I’m wondering if they were just extra long gun belts or dedicated ammo carriers meant to be worn over the shoulders. Thanks.