YinTx

Awesome! YinTx

Thanks for that. A customer requested a 9/10 ounce single layer belt, so that is what I was working on. It took significantly more neatsfoot than I am accustomed to, but I worked in a small amount at a time and I have been working it gradually by hand over a few days allowing the oil to do it's work. The leather has softened a bit, enough I think it can be comfortably used now as a belt. I had tried some water on a scrap piece, then some casing solution, then a lot of saddle soap, none of them really seemed to do the trick. I did try to wet mold this leather, and it worked fantastic for that. A bit heavy for a cc or iwb holster, but may be nice for an owb carved holster, single layer, so I may relegate the remainder of it to that work. YinTx

I think one of the definitions of a professional is "engaged in an activity for financial return." By that regard, I'd say yes! cool story, and Congrats on the new maul, may it serve you well! YinTx

https://www.springfieldleather.com/Finish-Carnauba-Cream-32oz https://www.doublekleather.com/shop/liquids/carnauba-cream https://www.zelistore.com/products/carnauba-cream-4oz-18-22012-1?_pos=1&_sid=2e8dd253d&_ss=r&variant=14996912966 And I am sure many others. Just take a look around. YinTx

That is fantastic work! And I bet it feels nice too, being Haas leather! YinTx

I noted the same about H.O. However, I got in some 10 oz H.O. that is very different, very hard, almost couldn't get my plough gauge through it. Almost like sole bend hard. When I wet it down, it behaves very differently, as in even though completely soaked, you can bend it and it will stay in that position. Seems very moldable, as if it would hold its' shape very rigidly. But no good for a belt, which is why I bought it. Trying to figure out how to soften it a bit so I can get this order out, no time really to buy another side, and worried I may get the same thing. So was wondering if what I received was holster leather instead of standard tooling veg tan. YinTx

thanks for that! I think it might make a great gift, if I can finish one in time... YinTx

Can someone explain the difference? Would really appreciate it. YinTx

If you were to use an awl, there would be the smallest slit in the leather that would try to close up on itself. Tugging 0.8mm thread through that is pretty snug and takes some effort. When you are done, you usually don't see the hole. If I were to knock 1mm round holes in leather to stitch, it would feel like the thread and needle were wallowing around in a cavernous gap to me. From my perspective, you don't need smaller thread. But then, I don't stitch with round holes, maybe someone else that does that style can pitch in some experience. YinTx

Not a saddle guy at all here, but I do recognize nice work when I see it! Impressive! YinTx

Went into my local Tandy Store today, first time since the virus issue. They had some of the tools. They were in a locked plexiglass case. Look but don't touch. I was not allowed to touch them to leather, so I did not and as such I did not purchase them. The Barry King are online only, which kind of defeats the purpose in my mind. All in all a let down. YMMV. YinTx

That's awesome! YinTx

A search of your website only turned up swivel knives and mauls from BK. Are you selling tooling stamps also, or no? YinTx

Z series tools from Craftool are generally some of the lowest quality you can get. They will probably do nothing but frustrate you. I would recommend the older Craftools, you can get sets for reasonable prices that won't break the bank. The older tools were generally hand made, and of good quality. If you want, I'll look through my sets and let you know the numbers. YinTx

I saw one factory stack like 20 straps on edge touching each other, and literally swab on the edge dye across all of them at once, and buff them. Seemed to work ok, I can't imagine it was a mirror shine, but a production edge. YinTx

There are many out there, but here is one: https://www.springfieldleather.com/Cloth-Faille-Black-Yd @RockyAussie had a link here somewhere I think to another type. YinTx

I tried that once. Waited days for it to get back to right. Ever since, I've not really seen the sense in it. Only time I ever see a need to let something case in a bag overnight is if the piece has some hard spots in it and I want to make sure the moisture is very even. But even then I will only put enough moisture to do the job, which a very wet sponge or a misting bottle will do just fine. Sometimes I use casing solution, sometimes just water. Always the quality of the leather has a direct impact on the amount of consistent burnish I can achieve. And yes, some of my older Tandy leather can get a good burnish. Almost always can get great burnish from Hermann Oak. YinTx

Wow, nice wallet and it took a beating! The linen thread gave out in those stress points. How many years of use did it get? It did clean up nicely tho. To answer your questions, for sure I'd let it dry out some more, then a simple light wipe with a carnuba or beeswax finish would probably reduce or eliminate stickiness and reduce future dirt from sticking. May also facilitate future cleaning. If you put too much, then you may find the reverse to be true. YinTx

Impeccable work! YinTx

Nicely done! YinTx

@Rhale, Message incoming. YinTx

The one I showed is probably from the 60's or 70's, no idea how old the blade is. Could be newer or older. But the design looks similar to the one you have. That one is a recent acquisition, so I hope to sharpen it up and use it. But I don't know the correct profile for the edge. I'm guessing just a simple V wedge profile, but it could be a convex bevel? Anyhow, I have several swivel's I'd sell, but the Beard is not one of them. YinTx

If it is like the one in the photo, yes. If it is already smooth, maybe you don't need to work it over? Awesome, then it is going to cut just fine and no one will have any clue whether you cut with a $15 knife or a $250 knife. Just strop every once in a while when you are cutting to get the leather buildup off the blade, and you are off to the races. Get different sized blades when you are ready to experiment. When you have it all dialed in and you are ready for a big $$$$ tool, you'll know what you want. Or you may decide meh, money better spent elsewhere! If you make knives, you may even decide to make your own! They are pretty straightforward, I'd think. YinTx

If I may make another recommendation on your basic swivel knife: Take the top off (it just pulls straight up if it looks like the one in the photo) and polish the nib that the yoke rides on. ( The pointy bit in my photo) Make sure it is shiny too, this is what lets the knife swivel smoothly. I used various grits of sand paper, then jeweler's rouge. Add a drop of oil into the barrel under the yoke, and reinsert the nib. You will find it swivels very smoothly now compared to before. A rough swivel tends to make life more difficult when carving! Here's what the blade looks like. Kinda difficult to photograph, but fairly mirror polished: These are some the knifes that were neglected in favor of the cheapo above. The ones on the right are Craftool Pro, and the Craftool Ergo version. Knife in the middle is the Robert Beard. If anyone knows who the makers are for the ones on the left, I'd be interested to know! They do appear to have Tandy's Ruby blades in them. YinTx

Awesome, I'll keep my eyes open for them. As far as modernized, I'm thinking things other than oak leaves, acorns, flowers and vines. If I knew what that was I'd have already drawn it and tooled it! I have seen koi templates, skulls, feathers, etc but even that is a bit dated. YinTx