stropping

Hi jimi I think my one does not have the type of cap you might be thinking`I have a retainner tension piece` to press on the shuttle hook retainer`I would like some pictures please if it ain`t to much trouble,thank you Jimi for the reply I notice that I have the 45k1 where It has a fix timing race that has a fixed pin holding the race to the shaft`this does not allow me to adjust the timing race further back so I could move the race and give the shuttle hook more clearance away from my needle scarf. It does not matter which 2 different size needles for this machine i use`the hook is just ever so slightly touching the scarf of the needle at the beginning and as the hook is passing through the scarf of the needle to pick the loop up`the needle moves away from the scarf just for a millisecond but not enough for the hook to be at the correct clearance from the scarf,I would even say the hook scrapes along the needle scarf.most on its loop pick up. I know why the needle moves out to the left for a millisecond`when I look at the shuttle area from the front of the machine.The timing race has a piece of metal to it`so when the needle point drops down pass the hook it touches this shuttle timing race piece on this metal. The needles are new,these are singer needles.the needle bar is not bent,the needle groove in the needle bar does not look warn as far as I can tell.And if the timing race was warn I would imagine the hook would have to much clearance from the needle scarf,And I have even placed paper shims between the shuttle race cap and the shuttle race to try to keep the whole shuttle to the right hoping to move the hook away from the needle more`but this did not work. Is it possible when i look at the shuttle hook race`could this be to wide which is stopping the hook from being more to the right closer to the timing race and leaving more clearance from the needle scarf. The shuttle number simanca 95094 The shuttle hook number simanca 98620 The 45k1 machine number EH369717 My question here is`Is there a way to stop the needle scarf rubbing the hook.with what I have explained,is there some thing I have over looked here,any one is welcome to jump in please I am new to sewing machines.

Hi to all not sure if I am in the correct place to write this here but I am sure some one will let me know,Any ways`I own a 45k1 I think they call the shuttle area open face type. My question is`the half circular U shape thing that has a tiny hole either side that goes on to pins and stops the shuttle from falling out`I think its called a shuttle retainer plate`well some thing like that`I notice it is tapered/chamfered on the inner half circular area but not on the back,I started of removing the screw and removed the tension plate`then I removed the shuttle retainer`this is the piece that has the tapered /chamfered section on its inner circular area,Now firstly is this meant to have a tapered/chamfered side or not and if yes why,second question does the t/chamfered face the shuttle or face away from the shuttle when replacing it back on.Any advice from you guys and ladies would be great,thank

Ahhhhhrrrr" Thank`s great stuff thank you for finding out for me I have heard of this type of chrome tanned leather befor,Now I have some thing to go on

Thank`s for the heads up I suppose your right guy`s,There are to many sellers these days selling items to day and don`t even know what the hell they have for sale,they just want to make a quick buck .I seen some where a seller has vintage leather punch bags and they are made from 2.5 mm cow hide,But the finish on the bag in question could be a bit smoother,Years a go people had pride in what they did,now you have to pay out the back side to have some thing finished where pride has been shown in the end product,What `s going on in this world of ours?

Hi to all though`s who gives there input,After looking into punch bags I had come to the conclusion the leather ones are made mostly from 1.mm or 1.5 mm with a webbing glued inside,the sizes and style is not what I want ,So unless I am prepared to pay a fortune£300.+ for one, I ain`t getting one.So I started to look into buying a hide to make my own,But this got a little confusing,Here I will state the size I want to make and the style I want it to look like with the color in mind,But I would like to know what is the best leather to use,as I want a certain thickness but needs to be hard wearing but a little supple, so after stitching the cylinder and the bottom I have to turn it back from inside out so the stitching in a sense ends up in the inside.And what thread I should be using when stitching and what type of stitching should I be doing,And what colour finish on the leather to look vintage,The info down below is basically what I need advice on and it shows what type of punch bag I am wanting to make, First -height or length with out chains included 5 ft/ 60" inches and Second 16"inches across/diameter about 50"inches circumference this works out, not allowing the extra bit of leather for stitching the join Third- thickness 2.5 mm or 3 mm leather Fourth- the shape- vintage style,cigar type. Fifth- colour vintage tan or antique,like a warm light/dark brown colour and coating possibly wax Sixth- nice strong waxed cotton or some type of Bonded Nylon or what ever should be used, Seventh-A lace-up top piece not zip. eighth-Brass eye press for lace to join top to the tube part of the bag, Ninth- leather to stitch on to the tube part for holding the d rings to the bag. I think I have mentioned every thing, I had saved about £190.00-$303.00 for the bag this would not include the filling,I am from the UK England as this show`s from my spelling the word colour, Okay lets get into this as I am sure others will want to know how to make there own,maybe this way or there own style who knows,I am sure there will be enough talented people coming in to this forum or site giving there knowledge not just for me but for every one who needs the the answers we all want to know,

well,I think buy now its time I made my mind up what to do,Since this forum had started I have been given advice and other peoples opinions on what they would do, Some recommend they would leave it and save the original decor,and some say they would do a complete restoration,and some prefer to only touch up whats needed to do where there is no paint, Then there were the question weather its going to be for personal use or sell,this still would give different opinions. After listening to all comments and opinions I have decided to think on it for the while, And ask my self what was the first thing that came to me when I first seen this machine, Well, I bought it from a farm it was in a barn in the middle of no mans land,I turned up at the place in question and I seen two big burly persons standing there glaring at me I suppose I dressed and looked completely different from them,it could of been a Sean from chain saw massacre,not that there was a seen like that, but it gave me the feeling am I going to be walking out of here or am I going to be in the next pack of sausages, then I looked between the two people and asked is this the machine for sale,they answered yep and went back to more starring,god this gave me the creeps ,any way I soon for got where I was and started to relax and Excitement came in my head, then I thought I can not wait to clean that crap of this machine, then how does it function,so my first thoughts was this is not in bad condition and this has nice decor left on it even through the crap and grime,so maybe it should be left the way it is, what I need to do is give my self more time so i do not make a hast decision,Owe ye by the time I left we were nearly swapping telephone numbers,they were very nice people just cautious of outsiders, I must stress people do not end up in sausages,I have a vivid imagination

Yes and I agree with this comment well put, it is knowing when to restore and to what extent and if the restoration was going to be done as close to its originality, or restore to the persons own preference ,thank`s

The seller said that the water color tanning means that its tanned with plain and visible leather grain ,Now amed with that info could some one please elaborate on this for me,and would the leather being 2.5 mm cow hide being tanned this way be good for punch bag

Yes but in the best interest of the machine what would be better ? If all machines cars and tools ect made out of metal was left to corrode and rust there would be no old stuff worth having,we would all have modern stuff and we all know how that is going,The thing is we like to leave vintage items in there current state because were told by antique dealers on tv it would of been worth more if you left it the way it was,but a lot of people would say, as long as they are usable and functioning correctly leave a lone it gives the person pleasure to look at, some thing that has still got all its history on it why take that away, and some people would say it looks tatty repaint,but what happens if every generation did the same me and you would not come across the old vintage stuff any more because it was not being prevented from rusting,I know that this is a little over the top but there`s some truth here,I don,t like to see good items perishing who does, and like you I don`t like to take away its history and its characteristics,Now I could say I like this the way it is so its mine and I will leave it this way,but If I wrote to singer and they told me we could restore your machine exactly the way it looked on the day and it would have the same paint job done exactly using the same paint and methods, and we have the original decor to go on at no cost to you ,would you for get about character and say go a head,I would.The thing is with this forum is for people to have there opinion and to help me make my mind up I don,t think there is a right or wrong way when it comes to the machine in question,like you say its down to personal taste,there`s reasons for and against here on both sides ,You know if there were no transfers to buy so I could not replace on the new paint job I would probably leave it,I think the decor gives it its vintage look,

Hi Colt yes they are well from what info I had read I should imagine so,if you read some of the replies people have written there are links that give tips on how to apply,there is a link about 7 sections up by leatherworker he post a link. you will see where these transfers are for sale and the description on applying,

the seller might be new at what he or she is selling and not done there research from where he or she is getting the items from,so I give the person a chance to go back and contact there suppliers and ask the questions I need to know,And if he or she comes back with the answer( I am not really sure,) then he or she does not care about this product they sell which then I see he or she does not care about there customers.Then I will leave this product alone,and they loose a sale would you say that`s fair, ? Not all people go into selling there products knowing all about there items,so I give them a chance to find answers I need to know. It is a bit ignorant on the sellers end, but that`s the human race today,well a good percentage, there are people out there who put prohibit be for people, :yes:is this what you would do if you we me.

Thanks I am trying to get hold of the seller so he could elaborate on this water tanned leather,but with no answer yet,

The seller said that it was water tanned dye ,weather he meant veg tan ime not to sure

Hi to all,I want to buy a punch bag of a seller the punch bag is made from 2.5mm cow hide and he said it is water tanned leather then waxed over is this good for punch bags this type of tanning the leather,I dont know weather that type of tanning would be good for leather that would be pounded all the time,Help needed please,