chainftw
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Posts posted by chainftw
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I've seen quite a few of these over the years & USMC is one name that comes to me,I know there's others.
They were made for just what you call it a hole puncher for any leather item that needed some holes,different sizes of dies were also available for different sizes of holes & shapes like round & oval.
THe are also known as a perforator.
I'm sure the company that made it is long gone so if you want dies or something you'll probably have to get them made.
Bob
It came with a bunch of different dies for it .
do you know how old it is?
Chain
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#69 is the largest it can use,we do have a roller foot fot it along with leather point needles if needed.
Bob
What's a roller foot ?
I don't know to much about sewing machines.
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Just got a singer 96-40 for free . Don't do much machine sewing, but anybody know what is the largest thread size it will take ?
Thanks , Chain
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:wtf: I guess I am going to go out on a limb with this one but......why in heavens name would someone go to all the trouble of trying to get good depth on a piece of handtooled leather and then stick it under a roller and flatten it out? Seems to me that that might be defeating the purpose of the hand tooling all together. But in answer to your question...in over 30 years of doing this I have never heard of anyone doing that sort of thing. Are you sure someone wasn't having you on and pulling your leg?
I glass and spoon my leather also but I know they said they do this and it turns out great .I haven't tried it and I don't think I will but just curious if anyone else does this .Thanks for all the responses , Chain
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I have heard that some people after all the carving and tooling is done wet the piece down and roll it to flatten the tooling .
Has anyone done this and how does it work ?
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Dave's right about the make up of Pure Neetsfoot oil, however Prime Neetsfoot oil has been around for along time & contains petroleum distillates. I don't use it for the same reason Dave doesn't, but I assume many do. It's still available, so obviously enough ppl use it without complaints to keep making it. So, I guess in a pinch the motor oil may not hurt. Also I have heard from ol' timers that olive oil does work well if used sparingly. Roger (Beesachoppa) has used it in the past, but I've never tried it. Neetsfoot oil is too cheap to chance a rancid leather seat later with olive oil.
As far as water repellent I've used Aussies, Pecards is better, but IMO Montana Pitch Blend works the best, although I haven't tried the Snow Seal, or Snowproof yet.
So, with that said here is my progression of finishes.
1. oil (neetsfoot, or lexol for natural)
2. dye
3. lexol
4. Leather balm with atom wax
5. Aussies, Pecards, or Montana Pitch Blend
Thanks for the info .
Do you mean the Lexol conditioner in the dark brown bottle or the cleaner ? And if you have to put a block coat would you do it after oil?
Thanks, Chain
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I would never use a food product on leather. Nor would I use a petrolium oil on leather. Pure neatsfoot oil is not terribly expensive and certainly much better for leather than either of the others.
I use it prior to dyeing the leather. When ready for a finish, I use either Leather Balm with atom wax or Aussie conditioner.
Dave
Hey Dave ,
I know what your saying but I Talked to some saddle makers who have been at it for a while and they prefer
Olive Oil over Neatsfoot oil . They say it doesn't turn rancid like neatsfoot can which can have a type of animal fat in it , and it doesen't make the leather fibers mushy
and week after using it . Thanks for your suggestion though .
Chain
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I scored the Snowproof from Springfield Leather. That's the reason I don't use Neatsfoot, it isn't made for crankcases. Oh by the way, Merry Christmas to you and yours!!!
Hey man,
I thought you were F#@$ with me about the 20 \50 . Does it really work ?
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Fiebings Snow Proof. Sometimes I use 20w-50 or 60w Valvoline or Harley oil,depends what I have laying around, before dyeing.
UHH....YEAH THANKS .
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It's not my style, but I really like the webbed background. I can't help but wonder why you are expecting people to bitch at you, though...
~Noah
Well my past posts haven't gone to well because of the subject !!
Thanks, Chain
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Just wondering how most people finish there seats .
I use Olive oil before dye, then Fiebing oil dye , then any Hi-Lite or Antique, then olive oil again , let dry and Aussie wax .
I don't like the acrylic finish even though I know it protects better .
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I'm sure some of you really missed me...NOT , and I'm sure some will bitch at me for posting this picture for some reason or other . But I'f you know me
then you know what I think about FREEDOM OF SPEECH and all that .
This is a seat i did for a customer . The picture was drawn by PANMAN ,who I called and asked if I could use his work in a seat .
I don't take great pics but you get the idea .
Thanks to all who have helped me in the past .
Chain
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Can anybody tell me how you end an X Braid when tying top and bottoms leather together on a seat?No one answered my cross stitch pattern question either . I'm not sure i know what your asking but i end it with just running it under a few of the previous stitches . hope you figure it out , Chain
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I dont think any of those foams they use are water proof. Most of the time they will put a plastic sheeting over them then wrap the seat with leather/vynal or whatever. Usually if I remember right its a high density open cell foam, I have gotten similer to this at a local craftshop (not joanns there high density foam is Bull). Foam and more should have it on had as well. The stuff I got was a yellowish color like the stock stuff and is pretty firm but no where near as firm as the closed cell stuff like neoprene.Hey madmax22
Thanks for the info . The main thing with covering it with plastic is I like to glue the top leather piece to the foam so it wont move when i lace it .
Not sure what to do . I don't want to use the hard neoprene and I can't plastic cover the open cell stuff !!!
Chain
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I use the regular and high quality Neoprene foam from Foam and More and a few other suppliers but it is just not "soft " or "squishy " enough .
It's fine for small chopper seats like the one I did in the pic , but when i have to make a large custom pan and seat it is just to hard. I cant find anything like the stock foam used on LePera or Harley seats that is water proof , i know alot of those are molded foam . Anyone know of a good supplier of a softer style foam in sheet or block style ?
Thanks ,Chain
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Very cool man , I dig the skull.
Chain
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This is one of the best and coolest machines i have. It is a hole punch machine that auto feeds the leather and holds it down and then punches it.
You can adjust the space of the holes by the hole slide on the right side of the machine. You push down on the floor pedal and hold it down for auto
or release it for single hole punch. You can change the hole size punchs and the depth of the hole for the different size punches. I bought this on line
for 100.00 inc table and electric motor . It weighs like a 100 LB and the guy i got it from had no idea who made it or how it worked. There is no manufacture name on it or date.
Any info on this would be great.
Thanks, Chain
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REALLY NICE JOB!!
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This is my first try at the Sheridan style tooling for a seat. The pillion pad has the same tooling but a 4 letter word that rhymes with the last name of the guy that use to host Candid camera.
Don't want to offend anyone.
It's a Ultima seat pan that I ripped apart and re padded . The color is a mix of about 5 dyes and hi-lites I had laying around almost empty.
Hope you all like it.
Chain .
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THANK YOU FOR ALL OF YOUR RESPONSES , I WAS TOLD BY TANDY TO ALWAYS USE A ACRYLIC BUT I DONT LIKE HOW IT COMES OUT,SO I WILL JUST USE A WAX TOP COAT ON THE NEXT ONE.
THANKS AGAIN, CHAIN
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Does anyone know if after dying a bike seat and just using aussie wax without super shene or some other acrylic ,if that will be enough to protect it, and if not how do you protect your seats?
thanks , chain
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does anyone know if after dying a bike seat and just using aussie wax without super shene or some other acrylic ,if that will be enough to protect it?
What The Heck Is This Machine
in Leather Sewing Machines
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Any idea of it's value?