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ttownfire

Contributing Member
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Everything posted by ttownfire

  1. Wow. Great help everyone. Thank you. Are inlays something you learn by watching someone else? I've had a heck of a time finding other information on the net. I may be searching for the wrong items/terms... I'm looking for a tutorial or sorts.
  2. Thanks for the replies guys. I "was" (after this post anyway) using a razor utility knife. and a cutting mat. I guess I will need to get an exacto knife with #11 blades and a single edge razor. What is a single edge razor? Ian - thanks for the tips. Dave - What do you use to hold your work and keep it from stretching/moving? Also, what do you cut on? Do you know where I might find some inlay resources? What do you guys use to lay-out the patterns? I tried a big piece of chalk and a chalk pencil and both were basically useless. I went to a factory in Colombia and they used a pen-like thing to mark the leather. It made white lines and was easy to erase.
  3. Hey everyone! I cut out the "window" for an inlay this evening and I jacked that piece of leather up bad. Maybe I was too ambitious as I was trying to cut out a firefighters helmet? My problem was in the corners. I couldn't get them nice clean without passing into the main leather. Search offered some good tips for the latter stages of inlay/overlay work... but I didn't find cutting stuff. Further, I didn't want to hijack the beautiful inlay threads with questions. So, can any of you please provide some tips for cutting and/or finishing inlay windows and overlay pieces? Thanks.
  4. Great stuff, man. I know several Fireman that would buy that... I'm gonna show em' tomorrow.
  5. It sounds like your carbon brushes are going bad. What kind of servo do you have?
  6. I use the Reliable Sewquiet 3000 for my machine (Artisan 618-1). I agree with Bree, in that you get more bang for you buck with a servo. Reduced energy consumption, dead quiet until you press on the gas and lots of speed options. I tried everything to get the speed down. I actually went to Ace and bought and installed a pulley that was half the size of the original. It made a difference, but nothing came close to the servo. I highly suggest that you get the optional 50mm pulley and use it. Here is a link to the one I bought; http://www.acesewvac.com/rel-sewquiet.html It takes 30 min. to 1.5 hours to change yourself depending on the wiring routing and such. You may need to make a trip to autozone to get a new (usually smaller) belt, but remember that the motor has a LOT of adjustment... basically the entire length of the long threaded bolt that hangs down. The servo doesn't care if its not perfectly perpendicular to the table. Good luck Mike.
  7. Thanks Marlon. Do you know of any leather schools?
  8. Howdy! Well, I've been lurking for some time and I'm in need of some advice. My wife, son and I have come down to Colombia to visit some family and after I went to some fabric shops here I got the urge to do some cuero (leather) work. I've been mostly making products out of Cordura and Nomex to this point with a small part-time business in my house. I'm mainly interested in making bags, straps and other "utility" items. I haven't yet picked up a copy of Al's case book, but I intend to when I return. I'm seeking advise on where I can get more information on making leather bags, cases and straps. I wouldn't mind take a few classes to be perfectly honest, as I'm completely self-taught with the exception of a class on repairing firefighting gear, of which I'm a firefighter fulltime. Here are a few of my questions... 1) Are there any schools that teach this kind leather work? 2) Would a boot school be any good to help learn the techniques? 3) With the exception of Al's books and BigHouseDaddy's pattern website, where can I find information on making cases like this; 4) ANY other advise y'all would like to give would be kindly appreciated. TIA Mike
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