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Selling my Singer 136w110 post bed sewing machine. Has a roller foot and this model has a higher lift than others in the class. It's currently set up to sew around 11 SPI and works great with 2 layers of 5oz leather, but will do 3 if you go slowly. I use size 69 or 92 thread. This is the head only, no motor or table included. Looking for $400, pickup in CT uxW2lXh.pdf

Selling my Singer 136w110 post bed sewing machine. Has a roller foot and this model has a higher lift than others in the class. It's currently set up to sew around 11 SPI and works great with 2 layers of 5oz leather, but will do 3 if you go slowly. I use size 69 or 92 thread. This is the head only, no motor or table included. Looking for $500, pickup in CT https://imgur.com/a/x0nppRB

I have some leftover Pueblo leather from Badalassi Carlo. I'm not exactly sure of the square footage however it's around 5sq ft, the navy being either that or slightly smaller and the olive being larger. I included pictures with rulers for you to estimate the size. The pictures with the tape measure are the longest straight line available. Navy - https://imgur.com/a/KOJ3V8j Olive - https://imgur.com/a/ecr5JYM I'd like to sell both for $115 shipped to lower 48. These will be shipped with USPS, rolled into approximately a 4x4x26" box

I have a 136w110 which is similar, but shaft driven instead of belt driven. To adjust the stitch length, loosen #2, then turn #3 clockwise to decrease stitch length and counter-clockwise to increase. My machine doesn't have screw #1, just double check that it doesn't clamp the sliding eccentric in place like #2 does before adjusting. As far as the needle hitting a half inch in front of the feed dog holes, are you sure it's the needle bar and not the post that's mis-aligned?

To go along with the the Singer 236 suggestion, look into the 136 as well. It's a bottom feed roller foot machine like the 51 but a little more heavy duty. It is limited to a high SPI and the needles are hard to find. I usually sew two layers of 5oz and have done up to three layers of 4oz in a pinch. I picked mine up from a moto gear shop for $400 which seems like a decent price, it's just that they don't pop up so often.

Truer words have never been spoken. I must have been looking at a manual for a 136w100 when I came up with needing 16x4 needles, I had no idea that subclasses would have different needle systems. I ordered some 16x2nw needles, hopefully those will work, even if the shank might be a little bit of a looser fit. Thanks for the help

I've searched here as well as ISMACS and can't find a definitive source for needles. I usually use #92 thread and want a size 19 needle, probably a LL point. There's three different needle systems I've heard that can fit in this machine, 16x4, 34 and 287. I can't find a source for 16x4 in the US but a lot of places list 34 or 287 as equivalents. Maybe my machine was modified at one point but neither fit all that well. The one needle that came with the machine measures .069" at the shank. 34 needles are too large at .074" and 287 needles are too small at .0655". Unfortunately the only size I have for 287 is a 16 so I can't test whether that's acceptable or not. At this point I'm ready to make my own needle bar and size it for something very common like 135 since it looks like just a piece of quarter inch rod with a hole bored in the end, if only I could figure out how to get it out without removing the post. Can someone with 16x4 needles measure the shank size to see if it's exactly what I need before I go hunting for them? Or would .003" of play between the needle shank and needle bar be acceptable long term?

Hello all, I have a Singer 136-W110 post bed machine that I got last year. This would be my first industrial machine with a motor (I also have an Adler 67 I've been hand cranking) and I'm trying to attach a Consew CSM1000 servo motor. The pulley on the servo motor is a standard 3/8" wide for a 3L belt, but the pulley on the Singer 136 is narrower and a 3/8" wide belt only sits in the pulley by about 1/16". Is there a different type of belt to use, maybe a round one? Looking over these forums, I can't be the only one with this issue assuming the pulley is standard to the machine, a lot of other people are using older singers with new servo motors. I'm primarily sewing shoe uppers, two layers of 5oz leather at most. I'm worried the belt will slip on the pulley since it looks to not have a lot of contact and I want to sew as slow as possible so momentum won't help.

I went digging around and found the actual bobbin that came with the machine, it's a plastic center and paper washers, this is why I went looking for metal ones and mistakenly bought the wrong ones. Now it's sewing OK, still need to adjust the tension better since the lever seems to clamp down on the plastic bobbin a little too much, but it's acceptable. I need it working so I can start this dopp kit for my GF in time for christmas while she's away tonight. Bob, So what you're saying is that the 204370 bobbin fits the case you put up a picture of? Which bobbin # fits the case I have in mine? I can get better pictures for you if you need them. Did the 136 come with both styles of bobbin cases? I ask because when hand cranking the machine, it seems like the machine binds a little at the point in the stroke where the top thread passes over the top of the bobbin case and completes the loop around the bobbin thread. Can it be that a similar but incorrect bobbin case was fitted to my machine?

Thanks, it seems like that's the problem. Especially since these: are the bobbins that were sold to be as fitting a 136w. Part #233939. I'll report back when the correct bobbins arrive.

Hi all, lurker here. I recently acquired a Singer 136w110 post-bed machine. After many tries stitching 69 poly thread, I switched to the nylon thread that worked fine in my Adler 67. I got the hook timed correctly, needle seems to be correctly aligned with the hook now and it's finally stitching. Only problem is that now the tension is out of whack. I'm new to sewing machines in general which is why my search failed to turn up any solutions since I probably don't have the right terms. The issue is that the bottom tension is way too tight. I have the upper tension cranked all the way down but I'm still seeing a straight line on the bottom on the test piece (5oz oil tanned, 1 layer). I played around with the screw on the bobbin case but that doesn't seem to do anything. The problem is when the bobbin and case are in the machine, it seems like the little spring loaded lever that holds it in place is clamping down too much preventing the bobbin from turning freely. When I pull on the bobbin thread here, it spins freely Now with the lever down, when I pull on the bobbin thread it's very hard. I'm going to try using a fine grit sandpaper to smooth out the bottom of the bobbin case even though I don't see any obvious burrs. Is there any way to adjust the tension on that lever?