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Temporary

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LW Info

  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google -wow
  1. After initial wet molding, I let the holster dry, then place on the gun or knife and bake it at around 150 in the oven for 30 minutes or some. Keep in mind, you want the leather close to dry, or the heat with cause it to shrink and then deform.
  2. Nice and functional. Do police allow cant in a holster? I don't recall ever seeing a cop with a canted holster before.
  3. The easiest why to determine pricing is to see what others are selling their works for. That will give you a good idea, then you can always come in a few bucks lower :D
  4. Not that I have found. Experiments will usually get you there in two tries. Make sure you make a pattern first with still paper. Loose fit, then your in no man's land until you get it just right. In general, error on the side of big. You can always cut something down, but adding something is a no go. For holes per inch, it is up to you. I use longer stitching just because it shortens sew. IMO, a sewing awl makes it easy and painless assuming that grove and punch your holes first. Air. Just leave it out and move it around every once and a while to make sure that both sides dry even.
  5. Awesome. I like how you reduced the stress points of the belt loops by merging them with a wrap around strap. Good design for long life. Not to mention I own an XD
  6. Thanks. This gets filed under must learn.
  7. Yep, the hammer can be a problem, but by placing your thumb directly under the hammer your thumb knuckle will allow the spur to clear the pocket. It works and is the way I pratice drawing. Should have bought a hammerless gun though. Dirt and lint are a concern. Even more of an excuse to wash my pants now Thanks hedge for the stitching tip. I knoted and glued the knot. Move of a trying to delay the enevable than anything else. I'll try back stitching in the future.
  8. Well, after my first attempt, while functional, wasn't thin enough for my liking, I decided to try out some thoughts that I have been keeping in the back of my head. Not to mention that I wanted to try out some of the things that I have learned about leather working. So with much ado about nothing: Yep, the whole issue with my first attempt was that the width of the cylinder plus three layers of leather was just two thick for a pocket holster. I decided to remove the leather covering the cylinder to minimize it's bulk. The holster's retention is pretty surprising. The holster part was glued with some superglue, grooved and hand stitched with a stitching awl. Then heat treated to harden. It is held to the back plate with a short Chicago screw. The coloration in the above photos is due to the dampness of the leather. I just finished edging and assembling it 5 minutes before taking that photo. So how thin is it? Well, pretty thin. About as thin as you can get with a back plate to stop the gun from printing in a pocket. It was a learning experience to be sure. This is the first time, save for a few test scraps, that I sewed leather. Still not sure how to properly hide the knot. I dabbed it with superglue after tying it, then stuck it back into the last awl hole and then added just a tad more glue to hold it in place. I also had issues with the thread unraveling and holding knots. Using a pattern help immensely, but the finished leather doesn't really resemble the original pattern any. I had to keep adapting the leather to fit. The next one will be easier though, now I know what to expect. Gluing the holster together and then sanding the edges even was a life saver, even though I still didn't get the grooving on the back side even with the front. Thankfully, the texture of the back side of the leather and the holster design hide it well. In the future, groove one side, punch, then grove other. Edging is still a mystery to me. Polished edges don't really go well with a suede like texture in my opinion, so I mostly just rounded the edges the best I could and called it a day. All in all, I impressed myself with it. Not really sure how the heat hardened leather will hold up to use, but for now, it works great. Now if I can only get the concept to finished holster time down under three weeks I might have a productive hobby
  9. Nice watch and fitting band. A lot of sewing for such a little thing, but well worth it.
  10. Nice, simple, functional. You and your customer have good taste.
  11. Very interesting. It's like a watch for a band, instead of a watch band. I like it.
  12. Keep in mind that I am very new at this, but I have a question about molding leather to shapes. As of right now, I am working on some gun holster ideas and trying to mold the leather to the gun before riveting/sewing the holster together. This works ok, but I am thinking that I might get a better mold if I rivet/sew a cut piece of leather first. Then soak the unmolded holster and then mold it to the gun. With that in mind, the guns that I am trying to fit the holsters too are irregular shapes (revolvers). Is there someway of making a pattern easily out of something that will fit the irregular shapes without having to build numerous prototypes to get the fit right. Also, if I do go the prototype way, after I stretch a holster to fit a gun, then take it apart to use as a pattern, If I press it flat so that I can trace it, how much distortion will the leather have from the shape I want, and is there a way to compensate for it? Thanks in advanced.
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