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Timothy

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Posts posted by Timothy

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I recently tested the darkening effects of several leather conditioners and wanted to share my results with you. In the photo below the top and bottom rows are natural colored leather. The second row from the top (box stamped) is five coats of(left to right): Bick 4, Lexol, Lexol NF, and Wesson (vegetable) oil. The third row (basketweave) is ten coats each of Bick 4, Lexol, and Lexol Nf. I couldn't see the point in continuing with Wesson oil. These were all very heavy coats to speed the darkening process. Probably 2-3 times as heavy as most people would use for routine conditioning. All the leather is from the same double shoulder. The box stamped are from within a few inches of each other. The basketweave are from within a few inches of each other, but a different part from the box stamped peices.

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    Bick 4 claims to be non darkening and it really is. However it leaves some buildup on the surface. It buffs out well. It also makes a set of reins feel real good.

    Lexol and Lexol Nf darkened about the same.

    Lexol Nf claims to be formulated for light colored leather. It also claims to be non greasy. Compared to Neatsfoot oil this is probably true, but compared to regular Lexol iIt darkens slightly more and is greasier. I really wanted to like it and ordered a liter just so I could try it.

    Wesson Oil is the plain old vegetable oil from the Kitchen. I didn't have any Olive oil or neatsfoot oil handy or I would have tested them instead.

    I can't tell much difference in feel between the Lexols and Wesson oil. All seem to work fine as conditioners.

    The reason for the test is a new saddle I bought last fall. It isn't real light, but is has that nice reddish brown color and I want it to stay that way for a long time. I used some Lexol on it at first because it was pretty dry but wanted something better long term. My usual method of soaping and oiling with olive oil will darken one up over several years. As a result of the test I bought a Gallon of Bick 4 at one of the local saddle shops. It is the clear winner.

    I hope ya'll get some useable information from this.

    Tim

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  8. Posted · Report reply

    I just finished a new belt and thought I would post pictures. The top Belt is my first one. I made it last August from a blank and never posted it because I wasn't happy with the finish. My second belt was for someone else and I didn't get pictures. The bottom belt is the new one. It is cut frome a double shoulder. I dyed it with Feibings Medium Brown thinned with Lexol and finished with leather balm. I also put plugs behind the conchos.

    I did lots of practice peices testing dyes and finishes and it paid off in the end.

    Thanks for looking. Any critique is welcome.

    Tim

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  12. Posted · Report reply

    I sincerely hope I didn't confuse anyone too much.

    I personally use the round the back, under 1 over 2. But I thought I might could explain where the under 4 over 2 came from, so I gave it a shot.

    Like I said, it was the first way a round braid was explained to me before I knew any better.

    LBbyJ, thanks for the link. Great website.

    I usually try to keep my mouth shut unless I have something usefull to add. Maybe I should have this time.

    Once again, sorry for any confusion.

    Tim

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I can't seem to figure out how anyone can go u4 o2 with only 6 strands. If the working strand is #1, you go under 4 strands (that puts you at strand #5) and going over 2 strands would have you going over strand #6 and the working starnd (#1).

    Am I missing something here?

    Brokestrand,

    Let me see if I can explain it a couple of different ways. One of them might make more sense to you.

    First, just to be clear, let's assume that you have six strands numbered 1-6 left to right.

    First way:

    Step 1 :Take strand #1 and go to the right under the next 4 strands: #2, #3, #4, and #5. Now go back to the left over two strands: #5 and #4. The numbers l-r are now 2,3,1,4,5,6.

    Step 2: Take strand six and go to the left under four strands: #5, #4, #1, and #3. Now go back to the right over two strands: #3 and #1. The order should now be 2,3,1,6,4,5.

    Step 3: Strand #2 right under four, back to the left over two.

    Step 4: Strand #5 left under four, Back to the right over two.

    Step 5: Strand #3 right under four, left over two

    Step 6: Strand #4 left under four, right over two.

    Start over with step one.

    Second way.

    Divide the strands so there are three in each hand. Take the outside strand in your left hand around the back and come up between the two outermost strands in your right hand(#5 and #6.) Add it back to the group in your left hand so that it is the inside strand. Now take the outside strand in your right hand around the back and bring it up between the two outermost strands in your left hand (#2 and #3). Add it back to the right hand group so that it is the inside strand. Repeat indefinately. All That changes are the numbers in parentheses, and they shouldn't matter after you get started.

    Both of these should make the braid shown above with a herringbone front and a basketweave back. With a core it will be round. Coreless, the front will be flat and the back round.

    I usually find that when I can't figure something out its because I get locked into a certain way of thinking, so I try to figure out different ways to look at things. Of course, it might just be that I'm stupid. :cowboy:

    To me u4o2 does work, you just have to add some directions to it.(No offense meant, Horsehairbraider) When I was a kid Dad told me a four strand round braid was over 2 under 1. I never figured it out, and finally got him to show me how. Thats what I thought of when I saw the problem.

    I hope this helps.

    Tim

  17. Posted · Report reply

    indypbear,

    Yes, I need more tools. Don't we all? :)

    I tried acouple of different straps and liked the straight basket best. The next one I'll probably do different.

    wwwrmbbladescom,

    e-mail on the way. If anyone else wants a copy, just ask.

    Rayban,

    I'm right handed, and it works well strong side or crossdraw. I drew it out several different ways. Heres a picture of the knife in the sheath.

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    I drew it out several ways. I figured out how I wanted the knife presented , and thought I could do a better job fitting it with the welt on the blade side. It's not conventional, but I like it.

    Once again Thanks for the critiques.

    Tim

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  20. Posted · Report reply

    Howdy,

    I thought I would post this separate in case it gets moved later. I hope this is O.K.

    I just finished stitching this one tonight. When I used the pocket clip, the knife kept working its way out of my pocket so it is going on my belt instead. I molded the sheath tight enough that I don't have to worry about losing it any more.

    The sheath is about 8 ounce leather, basket stamped, and saddle stitched. The loop is run through slots in the flap and held with a chicago screw. It is finished with Eco Flo All In One Desert Tan.

    Please critique. I want to improve my work.

    Thanks,

    Tim

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  21. Posted · Report reply

    Howdy,

    It has been a long time since I've posted anything. I have started basket stamping and really trying to improve my work. This checkbook cover is the first I've made. I used 8-10 ounce leather and made the insides out of some scrap chometanned stuff. I'm not happy with my basket stamping yet, but it is improving every time. I finally got the depth I'm looking for.

    Please critique. My own is that it is too thick and I need to line the centers of my stamps up better.

    Thanks,

    Tim

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  23. Posted · Edited by Timothy · Report reply

    I am needing some leather for belts, knife sheaths, and maybe a couple of holsters and spur straps. It will be basket or border stamped. I will be ordering it, not buying in person.

    Tandy has Craftsman Oak 8\9 oz. double shoulders on sale for $3.79 sq. ft. I was already looking at Zach White's Imported double shoulders for $4.55 or thier premium bullhide for $5.75.

    It seems like the concensus of opinions here is that the cheaper grades of Tandy leathers aren't very good quality. I'm wondering if Zach Whites Imported leather is better or if I should go with the premium bullhide.

    I need to stay with leather that is affordable but don't want alot of waste from a sorry hide either. The premium bullhide is about the most expensive I can afford right now.

    I decided on double shoulders because I want something big enough for belts and don't want to deal with flank and belly leather. I am hoping some of you have used these leathers and can give me some information on the quality of each.

    I really appreciate your help.

    Tim

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I don't think I can edit a post this old. If a moderater sees this, please edit to read: "Take strand #6 from your right hand and cross it to the left under #4 so that it becomes the inside string in your left hand."

    Thanks to MatthewD and Knothead for making this available in pdf format.

    Rayban, I've never done a bolo tie, but i personally would use a simple 4 strand round braid. Maybe with a pineapple knot instead of a big silver slide? I haven't been braiding lately but have a knife that I could put a wrist lanyard on for a tutorial if this would help.

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