dickf

This is my new favorite pattern to carry and am continually tweaking it. Here's one I recently finished for a Polish P64. I'm currently working on one for an H&K P2000.

Yeah, looks nice and clean. I think it's the best pocket holster I've seen to date. Hand stitched?

Sounds like I should check it out (as well as the vinegaroon). Thanks a ton!

The Tandy guy steered me in the direction of using Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax as a top coat and sealer. It buffs out to a nice shine, but not high gloss, and really helps the leather stay feeling good. I love the way it looks and feels. Here's my question: the black Eco Flow dye is bleeding through the balm, and when I take a slightly damp paper towel and rub it, I get the dye on it (I'm not rubbing vigorously or hard). So, did I not buff enough of the pigment off of the holster before applying this leather balm? Is leather balm not a suitably waterproofer/sealant? Second finish - I picked up a bottle of Super Sheen. I was going for the high gloss finsih this time, and to my surprise, it made the leather feel more like plastic after I was done. I worked the holster in my hands for a bit, and didn't see any cracking in the finish, but it definitely made it harder. Is there anything that would help keep it slightly softer? The dye also bled through this stuff afterwards, although not as bad as the leather balm. Am I not buffing enough of the pigment off the holster before I apply the topcoat? Am I suppossed to buff like hell? Any finishing tips using these two products would be great. Thanks!

Thanks!!!

Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate all the input I can get! The pistol is basically a PPK clone, and thus isn't very big. This is why it's sort of necessary to mold the trigger guard stronger, as less than half of the gun (remember - it's small frame) is under the pants. The guard offers most of the retention. The inside trigger guard looks sloppy because I did it sloppy - I used the back of a marker, and your seeing where I didn't smooth it out (this is just a prototype) afterward. Again, because this is a prototype, is the reason I didn't take the edge burnishing all the way. With the front belt loop so far forward, it makes the grip of the pistol tuck in, which is superb for carry. The small size is also why I left some excess material at the muzzle. I tell ya, I think I'm addicted!

So, I made some modifications to my design on this one, and came up with this. I think I will extend the sweat guard slightly higher, and will give attention to the throat re-enforcement to make sure it's more even all the way across.

Agreed - super nice!

This is my first pancake design, and overall, I think it turned out well (it's my 2nd holster). I have already altered the pattern to allow for more trigger guard coverage, as this one is a tad low (mainly in the front). For the belt slots, I used a drill bit to make the holes at both ends, and used a verry sharp chisel to connect the edges. It resulted in a perfect striaght line, with no jagged inside edges. Cheers!

Thank you, kind sir!

Absolutely amazing! How do attach those snaps in conjunction with the t-nuts? Also, where might one find those t-nuts?

Thank you - I most certainly will!

Thanks for the input on the dyes and finish. I'm hitting up Tandy tomorrow, so I really should go prepared. Regarding the trigger guard... I did think of this before I boned it, but, the holster is snug, and as such, the material that sits lower than the trigger guard (inside the guard in front of the trigger) doesn't apply pressure to the trigger when the firearm is holstered. I would have had to bone that area with the trigger depressed in order to move it. It locks in nice and secure; even has a slight 'click' to it.

Thanks guys! I still have yet to burnish the edges, and feel confident that I can clean up any rough points during that process. The opposite side of the snap doesn't go inside the holster - it's between the throat support and the body. One thing is for sure - I already have changed the pattern and can't wait to start a new one! Do you guys have any recommendations on dye? I need it to be able to stay even if the user has the leather against skin and sweats. Thanks!

So, I have been lurking around for quite some time, and I had posted my intro back in April. I (finally) got around to getting something done. Anyway, this is a prototype for a Polish P64 pistol IWB. I still have yet to dye it. Thanks for all the great info!

Thanks for the replies - it was what I was looking for. I guess it's off to Tandy's for me!

So, I have been a shooter for quite sometime, and have experiene with big name holsters, and not-so big name makers, and for the most part I know what I like. I really want to give this a go, as making my own leather would really be a big reward for me. Problem is, I don't even know where to start. I guess my first question is... How do you hand-stitch these holsters and keep them so uniform and exactly how do you properly hand stitch, period? Thanks guys - you all do some awesome work.