anvilring

Oh, I forgot... I DID polish off the little (lengthwise) "stud/bar" off the bottom of the center walking foot. Weaver said it was ok to do it. My feed dog however is the one Weaver furnished w/these machines that has the "groove" in it. Oddly enough it leaves the stitches "proud" so to speak but it's been doing that from the getgo w/o problems. I'm using polyester LHT thread. changing (slightly) the scarf of the needle seems to do little or nothing.

My DA 205 "was" doing just fine... suddenly it's stitches are "off". In the first pic, at the top is the problem stitch...., the next three or four under it are what I want to see. The next two pics are more of the same. What's happened? I've checked timing and the hook is picking up alright. These are size 23 and 24 needles. I can call Weaver in the morning but thought someone might recognize this problem. The thread sizes, needles are the same I've been using. Nothing changed. 207 on top and 136 ( I think) on bottom. I'd like smaller holes but they don't make a RTW needle for this machine in 22, just spearpoint. TIA. mitch

Wow... I don't even see where the work goes! What was this used for? And how big is it? There's nothing in your pictures that really reference its size... Looks interesting! I'm curious to know what it was used for.

Just stumbled across this video: https://uwe.store/blogs/videos/durkopp-adler-205-operating-guide very useful and answered a lot of my questions! So there's a Cowboy clone of this machine Yes? So I could buy some Chinese cowboy presser feet and be okay? I just need the left edge (for sewing along /to the right of, the center presser foot) pressure foot for now.

So I own this machine... I love it! it will sew ANYTHING!! I've cleaned it up, oiled it (it hadn't had oil in years...) and am sewing up a storm. I have a few questions and... have dutifully loaded the pix here on the site. First off, I have a pic of the bobbin/hook compartment and would like to know what screw/screws you remove to get to the shims that have to be changed out for different sized needles/thread and, where do you buy such as that? Also, is the bobbin case "self adjusting"? because I don't see any way to adjust it w/a screw as many machines have. It seems to apply the correct tension via thread size w/o any adjustment leaving the operator to simply (this is what I've done so far) adjust top thread tension to sort of "match" that of the bottom. Where do you adjust the walking foot tension? There's a screw on top of the machine in one pic... is that it? and if so, which way increases tension? clockwise? or counter clockwise? There's a pic of the walking foot (the smaller of the two I got w/the machine) and, sewing the cartridge loops pictured, can I cut off the right foot Z(Zthe one to your right when sitting at the machine) so's to make that odd steep angle back to the top easier to do? Where do I get a foot (feet, I may alter some more of'em) for this machine? The foot "looks like" the Juki 441 foot... is it the same? cuz you can get the Chinese ones pretty easy no? The thread tensioner knob on the top of the machine seems misaligned (too far to the left) to me is it? I also see now that the degree of lift is affected by how far in you run the screw securing this tensioner. In the pic of the brown leather stitching, I'm pointing w/my scissors to an initial "back stitch" which for some reason, always comes out "truncated". However when you use the reverse/backstitch when ending a run... it goes back in hole for hole. So why the short/finer stitching initially? I've cleaned, oiled and polished up this machine and it seem to me, good as new. I would like a manual, or schematic of it to use for reference if anyone knows of one's where'bouts. I've never owned anything that sews like this... I love it! regards, mitch

So I would like to know if this is, from the pix on the website, a Juki 441/Cowboy clone: Thor GA441 This is a machine I can pick up myself in Dallas TX for $2495 w/all the attachments show in the ad text inc. a swing away roller guide, wax pot etc. It's a solid $500+ cheaper than the Cowboy and I wouldn't be paying shipping (but I will have to pay sales tax). It comes standard w/several of the items the Cowboy only has w/the deluxe package. The dealer, Sunshine Sewing is a Juki/Consew dealer. The pic I have dutifully uploaded below is a Durkopp Adler bought from Weaver and it "looks" a lot like the Juki clone but apparently it's not. It belongs to an old saddle maker/leather worker nearby and I can buy it for 2k even money. What is it a clone "of" if any? Is it a proprietary design of Durkopp's? I can see it today and stitch of on it and get more pix but do any of you recognize this machine and/or know anything of it's capabilities? Lastly, Sunshine also has what looks like, the same machine as the GA441 in a flatbed version for $2995. Why it's more is beyond me. Thor GA243

No way to add to the original post so I'm putting them here. Mods feel free to move them if you can. So I went to Campbell - Randall Leather Machinery yesterday and got needles to make the stitch I want: they are simply called RTW needles... pick a size. And they worked well but now I'm out of that machine and on to the next idea of finding/getting a better machine for what I'm doing.

Ok, switching gears here. Last Saturday, thinking about "new machine" I put this Seiko up for sale on Craig's List and sold it last night to people sewing masks. I told him it was overkill but, he already had one STH-8 and so, he bought this one as well. Then I called a local saddle shop I know of and ask to see/talk about her Cobra 4 and in the conversation, her old boss who was there in the room said he wanted to sell his Durkopp Adler 306. I've looked online but can't find that model and am waiting hear back exactly "what" he as when she goes out to the shop to check. He wants 2k for the machine and she says, it's a nicer easier machine to use than her Cobra. So I'm going to keep this conversation in this thread if that's ok as I would like to buy the "right" machine this time! I've read Wizcrafts article on dumbing down the Cowboy and some other info so I realize you can't have one machine fit all needs but I'm mostly going to be belts, cartridge loops, holsters and knife scabbards. I'll post exact info on the DA as soon as I hear back from her.

Can you see them now? There's a catch to flickr... you have to MAKE them public or no one can see them. Yes, it's an invasive program but it's all I have for now.

edit: " I want a Cobra but I see there's other machines that use that same patent? And that's the case across the spectrum from what I can tell and so I'd like to know what patent covers what machines and.... if there's nuances to be valued; what they are." I edit my own post here... question: can I add the Thor GB6-180 to that clone list? for the Cowboy4500, and the Cobra? And who, may I ask, invented this rather "frequently" copied machine? and when? Love history... if it's not too much trouble.

Finally! I'm on a laptop. I hate using my phone for forum stuff. I'm sewing on a Seiko sth-8bld-3 flatbed machine I think... can check that later but: here's what I'm doing/making: (these pix are on flickr and are public. Click on them in this tread and they will become enlargeable/zoom.) EDIT: Downloaded from Flicker and inserted here, Flicker links removed! These cartridge loops are tricky but I'm getting the hang of it. My top thread is larger than the bottom but I forget which one I'm using; will post that info when I get home. In this next pic you can see that the stitches are "offset" somewhat, (not in a straight line) which is what I like. But I can't remember what needle I had back then that produces this kind of look: The top stitch, versus the three below it: Then there's the leather... what kind on leather/tanning process is this? It's about 2.2 mm thick and I like the contrast w/tooling hide leather for the loops, just don't know what to order. I've made these from a box of scraps I got in ebay: Finally I have some sewing machine questions I"ll ask in this thread later if that's ok. I want a Cobra but I see there's other machines that use that same patent? And that's the case across the spectrum from what I can tell and so I'd like to know what patent covers what machines and.... if there's nuances to be valued; what they are. Lastly, I want to do/sew these w/linen thread. Like the old stuff was done. W/wax I guess. Can Cobra do that? At least the top thread in linen? regards, mitch

Ok... I see; thanks! That's a nice band!

What needle and thread did you use for that? specifically?

Plain harness leather 6/7 wt. w/welting.... finished w/ "cavalryman's dressing" (my x-father-in-law, now deceased taught me how to make it). I made the knife as well which is how all this leather working stuff got started in the first place. My father-in-law was in the U.S. Army (Cavalry) in 1937/39 and said this is what they were taught to mix up for all their gear: two parts bee's wax to one part neetsfoot oil (NOT neetsfoot oil 'compound') or there'bouts. The trick is to have it about the consistency of good shoe polish when it's cooled down. You have to put it on hot, and have the item out in the sun so's to have it soak in. I think "Snow-Proof" is about the same thing. DSC00204 by rynegold, on Flickr DSC00206 by rynegold, on Flickr DSC00210 by rynegold, on Flickr

Thanks Uwe!!

" That screw in your picture is NOT where you adjust the reverse stitch length balance. Chapter 8-13 on page 23 of the manual shows how to adjust stitch length balance. " Right; got it. But; what IS that adjustment for? just curious. The one I've pictured?

I'm using the machine noted above set up w/207 top, and 138 on the bottom, and the schmetz 37:20 AX1 needle size 23 (135x16 R TW) which is a needle w/the point sharpened at an angle to replicate an awl I guess. Sewing mostly 3/8in. of leather; making knife and pistol scabbards/holsters w/ few problems. However in reverse, it will back tack a few stitches then usually the thread breaks, even on much thinner leather. And I find there's only one "stitch per inch" when in reverse? Anyway to regulate that? There's a sweet spot where my forward stitch will match up w/the reverse stitches but sometimes I use more stitches per inch than that. Here's a pic of underneath my machine and I'm wondering if this is where you regulate reverse stitches per inch? It's the bright colored nut which can be adjusted in that slot, securing the arm going back up into the machine. I should add that one reason I'm interested in a reliable back/reverse stitch, is that I"m making/going to make some cartridge/money belts and I need that reverse so's to not have to constantly be rotating the work (which in itself is a good reason for breaking thread!). DSC09469 by rynegold, on Flickr DSC09468 by rynegold, on Flickr