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johnbigsby

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About johnbigsby

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    Montréal, Canada

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  • Interested in learning about
    vintage sewing machines, repair and maintenance, tooling and bag making
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  1. Hi everyone, I recently purchased a singer 132k6 and have gradually been moving through the machine and fixing some minor issues. I'm stuck on how to set the hook-needle gap. At the moment I'm using organ 214 system needles and the hook grazes the needle which I'm sure is the reason I'm dropping stitches. I don't see a lot of room for adjustment of the lateral position of the hook, but I'm sure an adjustment like this must be possible. I see 3 screws on the hook itself which I imagine are used to set the position of the hook relative to the needle travel, but are these also used to set the gap? Has anyone worked with these machines before? Do I need to try a different needle system? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Best, John
  2. Also thank you for the resources, I have been looking for those forever!
  3. Thanks for the reply Uwe! I've been at it for a few hours and I've managed to totally change it and get it back to original so there is some progress being made with how the machine works. There are some bits of info in the page you posted that might be very valuable. Some adjustment about the height of the presser foot being halved. I'm going to give that a try once I get back from lunch. Hopefully it just needs some fine tuning. Best, John
  4. Hi everyone. I'm having some issues with my presser foot action on my pfaff 335 h2. Essentially when I adjust the foot height to the lowest setting using the wing nut adjustment on the back I get no outer foot action and my stitch length shortens. When I adjust to maximum foot height I get about 7mm of lift from the inside foot but around 2.5 from the outside foot. There are some tool marks on the screws that hold in the linkages that run from the presser foot height adjuster to linkages that connect the foot height adjuster to the actual presser foot bars. I think the previous owner may have adjusted these and they're out of whack. Does anyone have ideas on how to reset the position of these linkages, or perhaps pictures of the linkages when the machine is in needle top dead Center and bottom dead Center for reference? I can't find much for information on adjusting the older 335s, I've done some looking at the 145 manuals for reference but again I don't have much info. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I need to get my 335 back into action. Cheers, John
  5. Hey all, first off I wanted to say a big thanks to everyone who's been helping me troubleshoot this issue. This forum is a huge help and very useful. Now down to business. I reinstalled the bottom feed dogs and reassured that all of the parts were properly tightened and in place. I think the bottom feed dog was loose and cause the tape to move around underneath the material resulting in the dropped stitches. That being said I think the feed dog may not be properly machined and that the hole is not completely in the correct position. I will try a new feed dog set potentially in the future. I will also try a 24mm binder. I'm using 1" tape so I thought the 26mm would be appropriate. I do also have 7/8 tape so it won't go to waste. I may also try to machine away a bit more of the feed dog to allow the binder more room to adjust to the left. I will post my results when I get back to the shop. Thanks again everyone!
  6. Hi Uwe, Thanks for the response. I've got the binder as close to the feed dogs as I can get it. I actually filed the inside of the feed dog to get it closer with some success. I'm trying to post some pictures so you can see what I mean. I'm on my phone at the moment so I don't really have tons of options so to post the pica right now. I'll see what I can come up with and if not I'll have to do it from my pc at home.
  7. Hi Jimi. I changed the feed dogs to a binder style and adjusted their relative horizontal position in order to let the needle pass through the hole. The problem is when I sew with the binder attachment the stitches are too close to the edge of the binding tape and it won't sew the binding on to the material when I try to sew corners or even loose curves. I need a bit of extra clearance for the binding tape but I can't move the feed dogs anymore without the needle missing the hole and smashing into the feed dog. I was told that I could move the needle bar "carriage, for lack of a better word, in order to Center over the new position of the hole. I found instructions in the newer 335 manual but I haven't found an older manual to see if this is possible. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Best John.
  8. I'm having issues with the needle position of my 335-h2-17/01 bs. I can't find the adjustment procedure listed in the manual for the 145 and it doesn't appear to be close to the same mechanism in the newer 335s. Can anyone give me a hand with this?
  9. Thanks Glenn, I was just going by what my service manual says. I have a load of thread coming hopefully next week. Hoping to be able to update this thread then.Thanks Gregg, I'll look into the new hook as well. The hook that came with the machine uses a full Gib which was giving me issues when sewing leather. I'll most likely switch to a short Gib hook and consider the large thread replacement. I'll see how it goes when I get my 207 thread next week. Thanks for the suggestion.
  10. From what I've been reading the largest thread a Juki 563 or similar can accept is 138 due to some clearance issues in the bobbin area etc. There was mention in a post on the forum that I've since lost track of that it's possible to modify some components to allow for more clearance and larger thread gauges. I'm looking to sew with 207 and maybe slightly larger. Does anyone know how to make these modifications or what is necessary to do so? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, John
  11. Thanks!I only had a really poor copy of the manual from the internet. It turns out that the presserfoot bar zero was out of whack. I opened up the front of the machine and loosened the set screw on the stopper, depressed the bar manually from the top, tightened the screw and that was it. I did repeat one time after with the foot off to get a bit more range. That way the lifting lever has a small bit of five before it engages. Initially I did also reset my knee lifted range as well but that only helped slightly. Thanks again for the manual. John Thanks!I only had a really poor copy of the manual from the internet. It turns out that the presserfoot bar zero was out of whack. I opened up the front of the machine and loosened the set screw on the stopper, depressed the bar manually from the top, tightened the screw and that was it. I did repeat one time after with the foot off to get a bit more range. That way the lifting lever has a small bit of five before it engages. Initially I did also reset my knee lifted range as well but that only helped slightly. Thanks again for the manual. John
  12. Hey guys. I just picked up a chikon 563, juki clone. It's essentially brand new, I bought it from a guy who once distributed machines. I'm having issues with the tension but it's almost there. My biggest issue is with outside walking foot does not touch the feed dog plate. So it will sew easily through lots of layers of material but not a single layer. Is there anyway I can adjust the overall bottom of this machine or perhaps it's just a badly made foot? I appreciate any help you can give me. Cheers, John
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