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spotty

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  1. So I have been playing around and I think I have the hook timing close - ie. the hook rotates around intersects with the needle scarf and picks up the top thread. I was then running into problems in that it wasn't rocking up the bottom thread - so I ended up playing around and got the gap just right that it picks up the bottom thread now with the cover plate off or on. So I thought I'd figured it out and then put the presser foot on and hand turned it and the top thread then looks like it isn't forming the stitch. Threading path in attached image/ Video of Throat plate on no presser foot picking up bottom thread   Video of presser foot on not coming stitch So looking at the timing its close, the hook needle gap is close but still not getting stitch when presser foot on and material under the foot. Frustrations galore. Looking for ideas on what to try next
  2. Thanks, I’ll try those. For zigzag - time on center straight stitch or on leftmost needle position?
  3. So I'm getting very frustrated by this machine, It was completely flakey when it came to doing zigzag and I figured the timing was off a bit so I decided to re-time it to see if that helps. Now I'm in a situation where the hook picks up the top thread reliably with the throat plate off I can watch it picking up the top thread but I put the throat plate on and try to sew and get nothing. Take the plate off and try again and can see the hook is picking up correctly, I reverified the needle bar position, hook time intercept (on center ie straight stitch) and the position of the needle relative to the hook. All seem correct. Any ideas on whats going on or things to try, I have a video, but is way too big with the max size of 1.46Mb but am pleased to post a link to a file share for those that think they may be able to help.
  4. Definately not threading in that part of the bobbin case. After much further tweaking it now appears to be adequately zig zagging. I can adjust the width and length and the tensions look reasonably consistent. I'll continue to continue to tweak but it looks acceptable for the most part. I did nothing different except for clean every part with compressed air and wipe clean the tension disks.
  5. Cleaning up the entire thread path and cleaning between the tension disks did help - although its still not perfect its much better. The check spring still seems quite stiff in comparison to my consew 290 machine. So I'm not sure if there is much adjustment that can be done with regard to the checkspring or if that would make much of a difference. I'm going to sew a whole load more material to determine how consistent the machine is - by only adjusting stitch width and length and seeing how consistent the stitches are.
  6. Thread is good - occurs on whatever E-Thread I run through the machine. Thread is feeding straight through the guides on thread stand. Thread seems to run fairly straight. (If I use the thread in the Consew 206 it works with zero problems and the problem occurs on different spools and bobbins) No material in tension disks - but removed and cleaned anyway. No gouges in tension disk. It does go correctly around check spring but not really much movement in spring when sewing. But spring does seem to be fairly stiff (Probably more so than on the 290 machine) Tension on bottom thread (bobbin) seems pretty consistent. I'll check under the bobbin spring. No protruding threads from the bobbbin. I can try another bobbin to see if that makes makes difference. I will try a few more things tommorrow.
  7. The following shows some examples. I'd retimed the machine and then started with some straight stitching. From left to right I would increase the tension a bit. Using contrasting threads - red on the top, white on the bobbin. Bottom stitching never looks particularly straight - till I got something that looks OK. (its not dropping stitches). Then without adjusting tension I start doing some zig zags. Now with all the zigzag I never adjust the tension further I'm simply adjusting the stitch length and width and then I'm seeing somewhat of the opposite to what I was seeing before - ie. the top side starts looking wonky but the bottom side looks reasonable. I checked the thread path was correct.
  8. The following shows some examples. I'd retimed the machine and then started with some straight stitching. From left to right I would increase the tension a bit. Using contrasting threads - red on the top, white on the bobbin. Bottom stitching never looks particularly straight - till I got something that looks OK. (its not dropping stitches). Then without adjusting tension I start doing some zig zags. Now with all the zigzag I never adjust the tension further I'm simply adjusting the stitch length and width and then I'm seeing somewhat of the opposite to what I was seeing before - ie. the top side starts looking wonky but the bottom side looks reasonable. I checked the thread path was correct. Pics https://1drv.ms/i/s!AtNFQZ6-n-pbkp0Di6bm-zJN5qXkvg https://1drv.ms/i/s!AtNFQZ6-n-pbkp0EDrSg98ErX35mSw This machine is just frustrating getting it to sew consistently. More so than the other machines I use.
  9. i have a consew 199 and am having tremendous problems getting the machine to work reliably. When sewing zigzag the top side looks ok but the underside looks like crap. I've tried adjusting the tensions on the top and bottom bobbin numerous times and it may work for a short time and then start looking like crap again while sewing the same materials. I've checked the thread path is correct and clean and re-timed the hook, but it just seems to drift and I'm rather frustrated as to what to and where to start looking to get this machine working reliably. Any suggestions for a plan of action.
  10. I'll give them a call and see if they have any.
  11. Looking for size 27 needles for a 132k6 machine. Preferably a 10 pack as machine is used rarely. Any suppliers in US.
  12. I have acquired a Pfaff 3334 bartacker which works and is functional as a 28 stitch bar tacker. Has anyone and ideas about the parts required to switch it to the 42 stitch pattern.
  13. I appreciate all the advice - and this is a great resource for people who have a lot more experience on industrial sewing machines than me.
  14. I too read those instructions but have now been told by someone who installed the clamp in the 112w140 - that you simply need to shorten the needle bar. No modification to the rock frame was required. If that was the case I would be much more hesitant as the difference in cost on parts is 15 bucks for needle bar vs 115 bucks for a rock frame. As far as I can tell there are two needle bars that can be used on a 112w140 which have different part numbers. The original had a push in clamp which was secured with a set screw. The needle bar part I'm told now that is needed is Singer PN 267267 which is threaded on one end. And the total length with the clamp needs to be cut down to 17cm in length. The timing marks on the needle bar are useless because of the increased height of the clamp but it will work just fine at that length. Thanks for thoughts...
  15. So I've got one of the flip up needle clamps to install on my 112w140 and then noticed that the needle bar is not threaded to accept the new clamp. I know that I need to cut a needle bar down to accomodate the extra height of the needle clamp but anyone know of a needle bar with a threaded end which would could be used as a donor part.
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