HondoMan

Thank you! That was what I was after..... Cheers!

Greetings all, seems to the wet noodle between me ears, there must an answer to this involving maths. Someone wants a case for a mobile, but obviously cannot leave the mobile whilst being made. Also, does not want a wet molded case, merely a slip case. Should be fitted, but not too tight. Having an equation would resolve it and ensure the mobile fits properly into the case. Hypothetical: The mobile is 50mm wide, 100mm long, and 15mm thick. The leather used is 1,5mm and a stitch line 4mm in from the edge. Perhaps age, but I cannot seem to come up with a solution that could suffice this. Anyone have a thought or idea? Cheers!

Good morning, last year a new client spoke with me quickly on restoring old saddle bags for his bike. At the time, he had a few moments and I noticed the straps cracking due to the buckles. I tossed on some proper screw rivets and removed the buckles to take some pressure off the straps. There was no time to use NFO on the straps due to weather and the bike was parked outside. Well, he returned. He wants the bags restored, but doesn't want the straps replaced just yet. Unsure why. He just wants the bags dyed. The leather near on feels and looks like a 2,5mm pull up leather. Quite waxy, but also harder than the pull up leather I normally use. Could be there is much change to the leather from exhaust and weather. They stink like an exhaust pipe! I plan on using NFO on the straps. Won't help the cracks much, but better than nothing for now. The question: On redying this leather. As I am unsure exactly what type it is and don't want to hurt the structure of the leather. I am thinking to saddle soap both bags (no the straps) to remove the 'gunk' and to prepare them for dyeing. When dry, dye and top coat. Obviously no dye to the insides. Thoughts, ideas or critiques would be appreciated. Cheers!

@Hardrada, I've no clue why this is happening. Am also curious... I've seen the video (Terrick does a brilliant job!). How did you adopt your edge work from his? He doesn't use Tokonole and is using leather dye not Edge Kote.

I did a wee experiment as you described. Me first attempt I waited a day after the edge kote and on the second I waited 48 hours. Applying Tokonole after Edge Kote turned a disaster! The first time I applied the Tokonole (again after 24 hours) and me fingertip was completely black! I don't mean a little discoloured - jet black! On the second try, I used a cotton swab and it too was fully blackened and on both attempts I had yet to use wax. No good that. I did apply a second layer of Tokonole and while there was less bleed of the Edge Kote, obviously the Tokonole creates a wee reaction over the Edge Kote.

@chiefjason, I checked Amazon a number of months ago due to the Mop & Glo recommendation. Bloody 50€ for a bottle! No made in Europe. I used resolene on the weekend. Helped a wee bit, but there is still rub off. @Hardrada, wax puts a barrier on the open flesh of the leather. If you simply sew to pieces of leather together that only have edge kote or whatever, you're no sealing that wee seam. Moisture can seep in between the layers of leather. If you're using twine or linen thread, it can lead to a faster destruction of the stitch. @Handstitched, I also never use trag. Me issue is with harness or bridle, dyed from the tannery, leaving the edge natural (especially black dyed from the tannery), is looking....odd...even grey.

Tried Resolene (50/50 with water) over the Edge Kote. Better, but still rub off. Tokonole over Edge Kote.... that's new. Worth a wee try. Odd with the Tokonole are no instructions or recommendations. Found only one YouTube video. Nothing more than burnishing, sanding and Tokonole and then wax.

Cheers! Are you using resolene as a finish coat on the edges?

Ok, back on this topic.... sorry. This is driving me mad! I have on hand and have been experimenting with...Fiebings Edge Kote, Tokonole and Eco Flo Edge Flex (Fenice ?). While I have yet to find a solution, the problem seems to lay with using wax. Allow me to explain. Fiebings: Dyeing the edge, allowing to dry, there is little to no rub off of colour. Once I use beeswax on the edge, the colour rubs off on a cloth and won't stop, no matter how long I wait. Edge Flex: I have found this to be utter expensive shite! It just peels off like silicone. Rubbish! Tokonole: I have only the clear (or white version). I have deyed the edges and allowed time to dry. Minimum of one full day. No rub off of colour. Once I apply wax to the edge, the colour rubs off. I cannot for the life of me figure out what I am missing. I thought it might have had to do with burnishing, but not the case. I sand lightly before I dye or apply an edge coat or paint, so I know it is seeping into the leather. I have tried using the glycerine bar and not. I have waited days between steps, using and not using canvas, etc. Can anyone provide a solution to this? I truly do not understand what I am doing wrong or missing. I use only vegtan, bridle and harness leather. Cheers and have a nice weekend!

Solution found. Hate to admit it, but I had a bottle here in the shop and forgot it. Tested it on a piece and there is no rub off, no bleed! Solution in hand! Cheers!

Mop and glo is on offer in Germany, but at 64 Euros, not an inexpensive idea. But I'm sure I can locate a less costly equivelent. Cheers!

Aye, you are correct. The instructions simply state to apply the Edge Kote after the edges are smooth. Nothing more. And they offer near no instructional videos.

I don't think burnishing is causing the issue. Before the wax is applied I burnish with canvas and only a trace rubs off. Seems the Edge Kote does it's job well up to that point. Once I rub a wee amount of beeswax and burnish is when the issue starts.

Terrymac, I used the GumTrag once to see if it made a difference. I sand endlessly, it seems. Allow me a wee run through here mate. Leather freshly cut. Sanded. A lightly moist edge and burnished. I'll do that until the edge is free from any fibres. Then Edge Kote, burnish and sand. I'll do that about three times, sometimes four. I increase the grit amount on the sanding bother before and after Edge Kote (400, 600 then 800 - sometimes 1000). I then run the edge over with a piece of canvas. Very, very little bleed. I let leather sit for a minimum of 24 hours. I then add beeswax to the edge and burnish. I then go over again with canvas and it bleeds like a stuck pig!

Paloma, seems one of us is confused. This is what I am referring to and what I am using and what rubs off. Maybe it's me, but it seems you wrote to neutralise the contaminants of the Edge Kote, apply Edge Kote on it. Cheers Dwight. Done that in the past. Didn't really care for it. Aye, if the leather is dyed from the tannery, it works fine. But often I am dyeing the leather meself and to have a nice dark bag or belt with a lighter coloured edge just doesn't suit.

Varnish? Can you clarify that please?

Greetings all, this is getting on me last nerve and somewhere must be a solution. Fiebings Edge Kote. A large number of people avoid it and I fully understand why. I have been at finding a solution to the rub off and cannot for the bloody life of me find one. I have done all I can think to do and it continues to rub off - days and weeks later. I have tried two different techniques at the start aside from sanding and burnishing. I've used both water and Gum Trag separately of course. Applying a thin and thicker amounts of Edge Kote to an edge. Using canvas to burnish and there is little rub off or bleed. I mean very little. I can see a very light amount of black or brown in the canvas. The rub off comes when beeswax is applied. Scientifically, it does make a wee bit of sence. The edge kote lays atop the leather (aye, some seeps in) and it dries. With the wax and burnishing, it heats it and mixes with the beeswax. There is now a waxy, acrylic mix atop the leather. I have applied the edge kote and have waited up to 48 hours before applying wax. Still bleeds or rubs off. Polishing with a soft cloth and it is filled with rub off that seems endless. One wold think that Fiebings would know this and make alterations. Near on everyone waxes the edges. Using dye on the edge is not always an option. I often make items that are not dyed, but want to have a brown or black edge. Dye won't suit as it seeps in. Does anyone have a simple solution to the rub off issue. I've read Bob Parks write up on edge work. Not what I'm looking for. I have large bottles of Edge Kote that I'm not tossing in the rubbish. I'd prefer to find a solution to stop the rub off. Cheers!

I do appreciate the input folks. I spoke with the client and explained this would no work. Rivets simply won't as I explained to her, using a rivet is going to look poor. Reason being, one of the holes is in the horse's head. A rivet of more than 2mm in diameter is going to cover the head. Bending the nails back is a non starter as they could potentially catch onto fabric or other items. Have a nice weekend. Cheers!

fredk, the holes are ca. 1,8mm. I checked with my suppliers this morning and the smallest is 2,2mm. A 4mm head is just too large. Grand idea though, I must say mate. This does truly seem a non starter. The washer idea is no a bad one. Might be worth considering if the client won't consider another idea. For the ornament you added to your mug, it looks good. For these horse ornament, no so much. It would have an unprofessional appearence as there are only for holes. Good idea should I have something like yours above.

Good morning folks, looking for a solution. A client has requested the below ornaments be added to an item. No promises made, but an offer to experiment. Seems a non starter. The brass nails are 15mm long and need to be cut down to 5,5 mm. The issue is having the nails peen (mushroomed or domed) in order to be held in place in the leather. I've tried various hammers to include a ball peen, each time the nail bends. The only means to hold or support the wee nails is within the leather (4mm harness). Heating the nails slightly did FA. It would seem a press would be in order to slowly put pressure down directly. Perhaps there is another means. Anyone have experience or ideas on this? Would be truly appreciated. Cheers!

https://leatherworker.net/edging.htm

Seems this is non-starter. The idea here is to provide a one-stop place for beginners where they can better make a decision on leather purchase. A concise webpage where one can decide on the correct leather to project. If we all went back in time, we'd do right to recall the frustration of sorting this out. There are videos, books, magazines, etc. But again, not concise. Not an issue? Go to any FB group and read the comments and posts by beginners. All are near the same. The cannot work through the myriad of information to make an informed decision. Well, seems I'll take another approach to this.

I am in several Facebook groups for leather working in the UK and Germany (where I live). There is one question that is posted most often: 'Hi everyone. I'm new to leather work and I want to make a bag, wallet, knife sheath, etc., and I don't know what leather to use' or something similar to that. We've all seen and read these. Here in this forum as well. More importantly, we've all been there! Why is that? I feel after doing some research, that no website or book exists that really breaks this down to assist the beginner. So, they all end up doing what we did when we began. Go back in time. Do you recall the first piece of leather you bought for a project only to discover after giving up what little money you had, that is was not the correct leather? I do! Imagine the beginner who wants to make a wallet and orders 3mm (7-8oz) bridle leather, has no splitting machine most like, or the one who wants to make a knife sheath and orders chrome tanned leather or belly. While there are feelings towards each type of leather (back, belly, sides, neck, shoulder) nothing is 100% off limits. Except chrome. I really dislike chrome. Ok, not bad for a wee tobacco pouch. But I refuse to use my good knives to cut it. So, I am considering building a proper webpage that goes into depth on this to assist not just the beginner, but everyone. To do that, I would like input from as many people as possible. Johanna has a great post that, while 12 years old, has some great info and should be included (with her permission of course). There is also the Tandy photo most of us have seen: HewlpHelpful, but does not provide enough information for a beginner. I can well imagine a beginner buying a piece of bridle leather thinking they can tool it with a swivel knife. In the UK, there is Le Prevo that also assists in this endeavor, but again falls short. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm There are, however, numerous books and websites that breakdown the sections of an animal (bend, shoulder, sides, belly, etc). But falls short of indicating what each section is best for (project or item). And therein is my goal. With the information provided by Le Prevo, Johanna, Tandy and others, having a site where a beginner can look and make an intelligent determination on what leather to order from a tannery or shop. Leaving it to the salesperson to determine for you is not wise, as we all know. There will always be that one salesperson that might take advantage of a beginner and sell them the wrong leather, just to get it off their shelf. 99,99% of leather sales people are brilliant! There's always that one odd duck. Of course, if there is a tannery nearby or a proper shop, going there to learn is brilliant. I live in a rather remote part of Germany at the foot of the alps. While there are cows everywhere, no tanneries and no shops. I have never made a saddle, harness, bridle, etc. I can't mostly due to German guild laws. I also cannot make clothing. So, my knowledge is centered on accessories - bags, wallets, belts, key fobs, armbands, knife sheaths, medieval and allgäu items, etc. So, what is needed? What do you normally make from: Belly: Sides: Neck: Shoulder: Croupon / Butt: Back: I, like most, don't care for belly. However, I do make medieval belt-bags from belly. The leather is very malleable and looks aged or used. To better state this, if one was to make a biker wallet, what leather do you normally use? Do you use butt for the outside and shoulder for the inside? We are all different. Adding to this, we know that bridle and harness leathers are a tanning process. As are russet, latigo, skirting. etc. But let's break these down. What do you normally use these for: Bridle: Harness: Russet: Latigo: Skirting: Tooling: Others? I've little to no knowledge on russet, latigo and skirting. I've never ordered them, so have no idea. What are they best for and does anyone have knowledge on the tanning process of these? The information on russet is inconsistent. Once I've gathered enough ideas and opinions on this, I'll build a webpage and have everyone look it over. When done, I'll put it online. I appreciate everyone's willingness to participate in this. When done, this might also be worthy of a permanent place in this forum. Cheers!

This seems like more effort than I was hoping. I appreciate your insights. Perhaps I'll wait a few years and revisit this idea. Cheers!

Had a thought last weekend regarding a 3d printer. Since then, been watching YouTube videos and trying to learn about 3d printing as I know FA about them. Is this idea feasible? I thought it nice when a customer arrives in me shop with, for example, a knife or a pen set and rather than leave these with me for weeks, I scan and print them to use for a custom sheath or case? The customer takes their item along with them. It would seem that I could theoretically print patterns as well. I generally use poster board, but the smaller pieces either get lost or tear and the larger pieces wear after time. A plastic 3d printed pattern would last longer and it's additional weight would offer less chance of moving or sliding and hold the leather down as well, albeit a wee more than poster board. I do worry that with a knife, the 3d printed blade would be to slim or flimsy to work with and essentially break whilst working with it for a proper fit into the leather. Is this idea really doable or is this really as complicated as some of the videos I've watched indicate? I am truly interested. One other thing is all the printer upgrades that seem to be needed. Seems one buys the printer, scanner, and programme, but the printer seems to warrant upgrades to make them better. Is that true as well? Thank you all in advance for the thoughts. Cheers!