HondoMan

Right then, over the past few years I've been searching for a proper press. I think I've physically seen one, but never used. I've been doing so by hand. Aye, with brass rivets and cheap poppers one must use caution. I keep in stock rivets size 4mm through 11mm and poppers size 8, 10, 12, 14, 15 and 17mm. In my search I'll find a company who has a press on offer but offers fittings for half of what I need. I would image fittings that suit one press, won't suit another. Do any firms in the US carry a spindle or handle-down press that would suit my needs? Thanks in advance and happy Easter.

Servus Marco und herzlich Willkommen, I hope that if you are wanting to make 'authentic' items for the Mittelaltermärkte and fests, that you are not using that sewing machine from the cellar. Just a week bit of humour. Welcome to the website.

@Rahere, have an idea what you're on about and I appreciate your input, but would rather no do that. It puts stitch holes in the leather before tooling and dyeing, which can be problematic. Cheers!

Right then, have the odd (to me at least) order for a man's bag. The request is for the back and cover (only and one piece) to be basketweave stamped. The length or height of the front piece is 27,5cm. Three gussets on this bag for a combined 20cm. The length of the cover need be half down the front (13,5cm). Including the leather thickness, I've calulated 62,5cm. A length of 62,5cm will fall short. The problem I'm on about is the wee curve across the top of the gussets. That is an additional length to the piece and my maths seem to be not aiding me at present. I get the very rare request for a tooled bag (more belts than anything). Normally I simply cut the back-cover piece long and trim off the excess. That's a non-starter this time. It need be spot on or as exact as possible. One centimeter short or long will be fine. Suggestions on a solution to this? Cheers!

This is a very subjective matter. Only you can honestly answer such a question based on numerous factors. The first being the most important. What do you honestly think your skill level is and is worth? Compare what you make to others. Is your stitching, skiving, pattern making, dying, tooling, etc...stunning or does it need wee tuning and improvement? Is it consistent - always. What is your cost of living or overhead? What are others in your area charging per hour? There are simply too many factors and only you can be the end decider of what your time is worth.

@Chris623 Tooling and stamping. Get yourself some tape. I use a double-sided carpet tape. Tape the leather and fix it to a piece of cardboard. This will stop the stretch. You can leave it when dyeing the leather. Dyeing can change the size of the leather as well and the tape stops the dye from showing on the flesh side, if one does no plan to dye the flesh side. The cardboard will also allow one to hammer a wee harder to make a better imprint from the stamp, beveler, etc. This is handy with thicker leathers. Corium? Google leather grains and corium. It's a layer of the leather. Corium is the looser fibres closer to the flesh. When your budget allows, buy full grain only. Good on protecting the blade. Well done!

Your Camo stamps are huge, but it's no bad for your first sheath. Chris, Don Gonzales uploaded a video about serpentine borders. Give it a wee watch and you'll see what I'm on about with starting at the corners and working towards each. On the other matter, what I was on about and what would have given an easier go on the camo stamps in the corner. Looking at the back of the sheath, your maker's mark is in the center with a 'half circle' down and up. My suggestion was to switch them. This would offer easier corners, perhaps. Another few suggestions. The front: Your stitch line.... start at the corner and top and work towards the middle. Seems you cut one hole in half (at the top). Also, don't tool to the edge (top). It's no asthetically pleasing. That edge should have a border of some type. Do you have a welt between the front and back? Next, this is a personal thing to me, but I do no put screw rivets or press snaps on top of the blade unless the sheath is to be lined. It will scratch the blade and if the metal in that wee screw is poor quality, it could rust. The back: It appears you have top grain or the junction with corium. See how the flesh side looks rough and loose? Use some saddle soap to press those fibres down. That or use oil dye to dye the entire thing and use a good top coat. Lastly, a wee trick on your tooling window: If you bevel the edge to be tooled and then....use the camo stamp, it will look stunning. More importantly, your camo stamps will be straighter and deeper. Again, you did well for your first go.

Chris, start in those corners first. You can overlap the camo stamps in corners. Once your corners are done, work from one corner to the other. As always, get some wee scrap pieces and practice before you start on the actual sheath. As a suggestion, what might suit and be a wee easier for you. Rather than have your mark between ( mark ) try.... ) Mark ( You might find your camo stamps have a proper fit and look.

All I've ever done as well mate. Done in no time and no involvement of using a computer. Just a wee coffee and give it a go.

From experience, it's a non-starter. I no longer take internet orders, emails, texts, or phone calls which involve measuring, be it dog collars, belts, armbands or cuffs, etc. Kenneth, if you decide to have a wee go, it will not prove well. I can near on guarantee that the client's ability to measure will be different from yours. I tried explaining to customers countless times, and it very rarely is accurate. It is not necessarily the fault of the client. I have numerous rules and tailor's tapes in me shop and nearly all are different. Perhaps the first 10cm are identical, but then it all goes to hell. Also, some will 'cheat' and simply tell you that their belt size is 95, for example, since it appears on the inside. For some companies, that means to the end of the leather and some meaning to the end of the buckle frame. If you chose to take an online order, prepare yourself for 'the belt is too long or too short'.

Goodness.... Pricking irons are to be used in conjunction with an awl. One simply makes wee 'pricks' or marks on the leather and then using an awl, sews the two pieces together. A diamond chisel is ment to combine a pricking iron and awl. One can punch through both pieces of leather (depending upon the combined thickness). You need to spend time watching Nigel Armitage videos to get a better grasp on this topic.

What exactly did you buy for chisels? Either tell us or post photos. From your photo, it appears more pricking iron than chisel.

@KennethM, I make several belts per week and this seems to suit near on every customer. There are various things you'll need to figure on your own. Sorry, I only use the metric system. I did learn the imperal system years ago in school, but don't use it enough to know what you would need here. Men's belts have roughly 2.5mm between holes and women 2mm. Kids and teenagers can be 2mm or 1.5mm. Take into account the body shape and size. Stay with 5 or 7 holes. Other amounts offer and unprofessional appearance and it is problematic if you offer an even number. The center hole is the current size. It is best to have the client offer their current belt - with holes! These woven type belts are very difficult to get a proper measure. Measuring the current belt. If one googles how, there will be several methods. There is only one proper way. Laying the belt flat and as straight as can be, measure from the currently used hole to the point where the tine and buckle frame meet. This is how the belt is worn. Do not measure to the end of the frame or to the end of the leather. Buckles come on various lengths, so measuring to the end of the buckle or end of the leather do not offer the current length. Also consider the thickness of the current belt and the leather you will use to make a belt. This will need to be considered for the new belt. It may be 1mm or less. Also, ask the client how that current hole is for them. Is it a wee tight, loose or perfect. If too thight, perhaps 5mm additional might suit. Same for too loose. The idea is when they put on their new belt, the middle hole need to used and should be comfortable. Not too tight or loose. If the client wants a 5 hole belt, the tip of the belt to the middle hole need be 15cm. If it is a 7 hole belt, then it will be 17,5cm to the center hole. I tend to add 8cm for the bend back (part to be sewn where the buckle is). That is simply my choice. Shorter can do as well, but not too short. For a plain belt, the stitching may be the only decoration to the belt and a longer bend back can offer a stunning appearance with a slight contrast in thread colour. On that, do not stitch across the belt. This will weaken the leather at the buckle. From the buckle, stitch along the edge to the end of the bend back. Make your stitch line 4mm from the edge. 3mm is too close to the edge and your irons or awl will cause the edge to have a 'lumpy' appearance. More than 4mm will cause the leather at the bend back to open at the edge. Also, don't use too thin a thread. I tend to use either 8mm or 1mm thread. 6mm is ok. Less than that is simply too thin. From the hole the buckle tine go through, come back to the tip of the belt about 2,5cm and skive the belt to the end of the bend back. The reason, if the leather for the belt is 3,5mm thick, if this is not skived down, one will have 10,5mm of leather at the buckle (bend back area plus the tip of the belt. That's a lot of leather. Skive down to about 2-2.5mm. Use caution not to make it too thin. If you are using a D shaped buckle or single frame, you will need a keeper. How wide you make it and secure it is your choice. Sewing it into the belt is best, but can prove difficult for a beginner. What is important is the distance from the buckle to the keeper. Too far away and the trouser belt loops ge in the way. So, from the edge of the long hole for the tine, come back 3cm towards the tip of the belt or 3cm away from that long hole. This distance will be perfect. Lastly, if you have a 40mm wide buckle, you want 38mm wide leather. For a 35mm buckle, 33mm wide leather, etc. If you are adding a maker's stamp or other tooling, consider also how the client wears their belt. Traditionally, men put their belts on to the left and women to the right, but today that does not really hold true. Either ask or look. This is important as you wouldn't want your logo or tooling to be upside-down. It is also important if you have a buckle with some type of design or logo. These are generally meant for people who slide their belt on to the left. If such a buckle is for someone who wears their belt to the right, you might wish to mention this. Hope that helps get you sorted. Don't forget to post photos of your work. Would like to see your first few belts...soon!

Like @mike02130 I prefer the blanchard. They are consistent and affordable and the blades are hand forged and easily polished. More importantly for me is the handle....tiny. I don't want to pressure push the awl with me palm, but simply holding it with me fingers.

@Prusty, one last wee word of praise. Seems you are on early days in leather and aside that you did a right grand job on the sewing. It appears you used an awl and going through three layers of leather, not withstanding the keeper, the back side of your stitching is near on perfect. No easy feat mate. Well done!

I second that. Gets on me last tit to no end. Prusty did a right good job. The amount of people who bring belts into the shop to have a rivet or screw replaced is maddening. Best of all are the rivets that have fallen completely out because the hole stretched. The average customer simply doesn't grasp they bought a rubbish belt, made from rubbish leather made on the cheap. A sad state of affairs.

A smart look. Truly. A good design. And mistakes are normal, allowing us to know where to improve. Me only critique is the buckle holes. The bottom photo.... that hole where the tine goes, should be 15cm from the tip of the belt, if having a five hole belt. With 7 holes, then 17,5cm. A six hole belt, whilst nothing wrong, is a bit odd. If the wearer gains a stone at Christmastime , the tip of the belt will be under the keeper and most like won't stay. Again, I do like the design and colour matching. A nice job!

I have me own shop. I am fortunate enough to have retired early (at 46) and was able to turn a hobby into full time employment. Been at it full time for about 5 years. It's perhaps 40% repair and 60% new items. I live in a rural area of southern Germany (Bavaria) at the foot of the alps. Loads of knife sheaths to make and repair. I turn down quite a bit, due to shite bags that are worth 20€ and no worth the time or money to repair. I'm in the highstreet and me flat is above the shop (attached), which makes it affordable. To be honest, I think this was pure luck on the shop-flat and the location. This would never go in a large city. Too expensive and too much competition.

Right then, I never really picked up the good habit of sharpening, much less polishing blades. No sure why, just never worked it into me life. Then I got into leather and no only did I need this wee proper skill, but have become rather good at it. Have several methods for various blades and all goes right well. The slight exception is the awl blade. I only use Blanchard awls. The normal routine is to use a Whetstone (with honing oil) firstly, then to a diamond stone. Once I get a good edge, I then use dampened (water) sandpaper (3600, 8000 and 12000 grit) and I get a lovely polished edge that goes through leather like butter. Been reading quite a bit about stones to be better educated. I use a ceramic stone (3000 / 8000) for me knives and a strop for polishing. Lately, I've been wondering if a ceramic stone would be good or better for the awl blades and completely forgo the whetstone and diamond altogether. I read on a few websites that if one plans to polish a blade, ideally skip the diamond stone altogether. Me concern is how one sharpens an awl blade versus a knife blade and whether it's wise for the ceramic stone and wee awl blade. I could easily purchase a ceramic stone to test, but don't wish to hurt either the stone or awl blade. Thoughts? Cheers!

No, not dyed through, which is why I feel it was no dyed at the tannery. It's black and will be dyed such. The bags are four years old and due to weather and sun, most of the sealing is gone off. I'll use the Fiebings Deglazer on a small hidden spot and see how it fairs. Cheers!

Right then, Have two rather large motorcycle side bags. Originally, these were to be cleaned only. Done. Saddle soaped them each, twice. Both are made from 2.5mm sides and have been dyed black - not from the tannery. There is no maker's mark or tag, so no idea where they were made or by whom. Some of the black had already worn off exposing the natural vegtan, albeit a wee darker brown. Cleaning them has made the contrast more obvious....and they no longer stink of road! Now it has been asked that I dye them. Grand.... Nothing else other than the saddle soap has been used. I planned to add mink oil over them, but halted due to this new request. To me question: As this has taken a different turn and to be honest, never done before. Should I go straight to dyeing or use something to prep the leather? To the 'wet noddle between me ears', it seems some type of sealing was used when these were dyed. While the saddle soap, road, and weather has changed the structure of the leather. Unsure if the dye will hold without a wee more prep. Thoughts and ideas are welcome. Cheers!

Good evening folks, near on 4-5 years ago, I bought the Osborne 84 splitter. Works an absolute dream when sharp and polished. Issue: Centering the bloody blade. I polish the blade roughly 2-3 times a month - sometimes more depending on the amount of use. I dread it each time. I tend to do it on a Sunday as I need quiet and time to get the blade aligned atop the roller. At the apex. Does anyone have a trick for this alignment? I don't mind going through a piece of rest leather to ensure it's straight and aligned, but there have been times when I've gone through several pieces of leather before the bloody thing is straight. I'd like to hope that after near on 100 years of this tool's existence, there'd be a wee trick to line the blade up quickly and correctly. Looking forward to the replies. Cheers!

Thank you! That was what I was after..... Cheers!

Greetings all, seems to the wet noodle between me ears, there must an answer to this involving maths. Someone wants a case for a mobile, but obviously cannot leave the mobile whilst being made. Also, does not want a wet molded case, merely a slip case. Should be fitted, but not too tight. Having an equation would resolve it and ensure the mobile fits properly into the case. Hypothetical: The mobile is 50mm wide, 100mm long, and 15mm thick. The leather used is 1,5mm and a stitch line 4mm in from the edge. Perhaps age, but I cannot seem to come up with a solution that could suffice this. Anyone have a thought or idea? Cheers!

Good morning, last year a new client spoke with me quickly on restoring old saddle bags for his bike. At the time, he had a few moments and I noticed the straps cracking due to the buckles. I tossed on some proper screw rivets and removed the buckles to take some pressure off the straps. There was no time to use NFO on the straps due to weather and the bike was parked outside. Well, he returned. He wants the bags restored, but doesn't want the straps replaced just yet. Unsure why. He just wants the bags dyed. The leather near on feels and looks like a 2,5mm pull up leather. Quite waxy, but also harder than the pull up leather I normally use. Could be there is much change to the leather from exhaust and weather. They stink like an exhaust pipe! I plan on using NFO on the straps. Won't help the cracks much, but better than nothing for now. The question: On redying this leather. As I am unsure exactly what type it is and don't want to hurt the structure of the leather. I am thinking to saddle soap both bags (no the straps) to remove the 'gunk' and to prepare them for dyeing. When dry, dye and top coat. Obviously no dye to the insides. Thoughts, ideas or critiques would be appreciated. Cheers!