unicornwoman
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Posts posted by unicornwoman
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What is the opinion on Springfield Leather's Finish Pro Clear? It is advertised as similar to the Old Super Sheene, which I adored.
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Ramskull Publishing no longer sells wholesale. They only do direct sales from their Australian Site, so I no longer am able to sell this books. Sorry.
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Just a tip: After casing and carving, you naturally remove some of the oils/tannage processes from the skin; you have to consider about put that back in before you dye or finish. a slight comparison would be when your hands dry out; most usually put on lotion. Same thing, except the skin your tooling is kinda dead!
Here in the Lone Star Leather Crafters Guild area, we are told to put a bit of Lexol into the water you use to case and carve with. That way the leather doesn't dry out quite so bad or fast. It also makes carving a bit better.
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Dude, with the quality and beauty of this armor. Why would you want it to be the last one and deprive people of owning such a work of art?
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WOW!!!
Where are you getting kidskin & cowhide that thin? Or are you splitting yourself?
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Had someone ask me about Super Sheen going tacky this week. I didn't have what I felt was a really good answer as to why it went tacky or what to do for it. Anyone have any hints?
I personally like using Super Sheen. Occasionally, it does go on bubbly. I've found that it can be removed in those areas with a cotton swab dipped in Nail Polish Remover. Of course, that trick works best the sooner you go at it and I'm usually on top of the project due to the way I work and the fact that I'm doing miniature scale.
I buy it in the big bottle, but pour out to a smaller working bottle to keep it from drying out as I don't go through it super fast.
Any other good tricks?
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I finally need enough Ron Edwards books to justify the shipping costs, so will be reordering first of next week. If there are any of them you are interested in, LMK. The listing is on my website. Prices there are the OLD prices. Looks like the new ones will be about $3 more per book for the $18 range books. Ask about the more expensive ones. Price change is due mostly to the US dollar falling. Email me here or through my website as I probably won't have time to cruise over here again this week.
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No, don't ask me how I tripped over this--I doubt I could explain it. How to make Braided Snakes.
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In miniature saddlery, we need super thin leather. Since Tandy stopped carrying skiver/pliver, it's been a bit of a challenge finding the stuff in decent quality and a reasonable price.
Joni of the Jacksonville, Florida Tandy store is working with a fellow tackmaker to try to swing an order of Natural Skiver/pliver in. She can only do it if she has 3/4 of the minimum order amount spoken for by pre-orders.
If you would be interested in some natural skiver/pliver, you can call her to place your reservation.
As best I can figure, the pricing is as follows:
authorized Tandy dealer: $4.50/sq foot
Business with Sales Tax permit: $5.60/sq ft
wholesale club $6.40/sq foot
regular retail $7.99/sq foot
volume pricing for 100 sq foot: $4.50/sq foot
Number to call is 1-904-751-1050
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Thanks, KateI actually called them before I posted but they were closed for the day. I am hoping they are my peoples....
I will report back.
Pat
I have some unusual colors of 1/8 Kangaroo in stock by yard, 25 yd, and 50 yd. It doesn't sound like what you want, but you can look and email me privately if it is. Don't go by the color chart as that doesn't have the weird colors on it!
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What do y'all know about dying with RIT? I ask because of this auction:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...sid=p2759.l1259
Does it set well or does it run on leather?
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I've got a brand new copy of:
Volume 15: Plaiting Names in Whips and Other Leather Projects by Ron Edwards Take your braiding to the next level by braiding names and words into flat or round braids! This book explains how to plait names in whips in the traditional method. Also explains how to do chain braid, sawtooth braid, 8 strand centre-weave, Lee's plait, repairing a broken whip, repairing a broken whip keeper and a tying hitch for a whip. Paperback. 28 pages and 157 drawings. US$18.00 plus appropriate shipping/handling. Send addy with inquiry for correct quote.
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I agree with TexasJack. Obviously people want more and more federal control over their lives else they wouldn't vote the way they do.I found a bunch of the people I talked to did not vote according to their beliefs, but according to who they thought would win. It was more important to them to say they voted for the winner, than to vote according to how they believed, knowing their candidate would lose. Me, I figure voting 3rd party is telling the the 2 big parties what I think of both of them....
But regarding the law, PLEASE write congress! It's very, very easy to do via:
Type in your zip code and it gives you the option to write Federal OR State officials about things.
And, yes, I've already fussed.
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Looks pretty good to me. To make a straight line for the stitch holes, I use a stitch groover. This will give you a perfect line to sew through. Making a groove will also keep your threads down below the surface of the leather, if you make it deep enough. If that is the look you're going after. I also use a four-prong hole punch to make mine so I get the correct spacing all the time.-Andy
I did try the groover, though obviously need more practice with it. I had problem holding the dremel steady when I went to drill the holes and a bit of problem hitting the line on the back. Guess I need more practice.
I've always had good luck slicking edges with water, a rough cloth, and a bit of beeswax.I did use a jean scrap and Gum Tragacanth for the final touch-up.
BTW, I really love using jean scraps in my crafting. They make super great clean-up rags for excess glue, etc. And, I have plenty as worn-out clothes do not get pitched, but tossed in the rag pile. I also use my rags scraps for "disposable paper towels".
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Well, the SIL changed her mind on the map case. She decided that it was going to cost too much in supplies or something, so she patched up what she had made (leather covered PVC pipe) and called it good.
However, she did have a 16 cm spy glass that she wanted a case for as she's into steam punk.
Previously, the only case work I've done was some covers for my X-acto & Scapel Blades and some glued miniature stuff. Nothing to prepare me for this!
It took about 3 weeks of all my spare time.
The belt loop, per her request, is fastened by snaps as she wanted to be able to attach it at will. She also plans to use 2 different widths of belts, so I used 3 snap caps and 2 studs to allow adjustment. The flap also has a snap. This was my first attempt at correctly attaching snaps in leather as I finally had the correct tools. (Don't ask how I was doing it the wrong way! LOL!) My maker's markings are under the loop.
My molding wasn't deep enough so I had to put a plug in the seam fit the scope. This made a nasty thick seam to sew through. I finally gave up and drilled the holes. They aren't exactly in a straight line -- how do you do THAT -- but the stitching covers it up pretty good and it's all so black, you really can't tell.
Slicking that thick seam was a chore. All I had was one of those plastic round slickers that came with the Tandy starter set...Hints on what I should have done appreciated here as well.
I cut out the front of the case so that the scope could be grasped for removal.
Well, it's done anyway.
Hints, comments, improvements, welcomed!
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Hey there;I make map and documents cases on occasion and can help with a tip. I get heavy carbord tubes from the hobby store.
I like that idea. Thanks for sharing it!
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You can stitch it too, however you need to learn to do either a butt stitch or baseball stitch as you are joining edge to edge. I might use a little thicker leather (makes sewing a bit easier), though the rings, besides being deocorative, will help the tube keep its shape. You could also find a thin plastic or metal tube and leave it inside permanently. This is what they do for fishing rod cases (this looks more or less like a small version of a fishing rod case)I have been informed in no uncertain terms by the SIL that the case should ONLY be leather. She made one out of PVC and junk leather look-alike. It is too heavy and unacceptable.
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This particular map case was the first one I made, the prototype. It is 3 oz vegtan that was wet molded around a PVC pipe (then pipe was removed). The entire thing is put together with 2 part epoxy. I tried contact cement but the epoxy makes it more durable. My newer ones use a combination of epoxy and brass rivets and have a strap to attach the cover to the case.You just glued it together? I'd assumed it was sewn. Gluing would certainly speed the project along.
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There is a watermark website on the pic. Perhaps if you went to the site and asked there.......oh wait, that's MY creation.
Regards,
Elegant
It certainly is nice. I'm certain she'd love to have YOUR work, but is hoping I'll do it cheaply! LOL! (Actually, she's trying to talk me into a Birthday/Christmas present.)
Thanks for the info on construction.
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The SIL is trying to talk me into making her a map case. She sent this pix as a sample of what she wants.
What weight do you think that is? 3 oz? I usually work with petite calf or smaller, so I'm a little stumped.
I'd also appreciate any hints. I've never tried anything like this and it is definitely going to push all my skills to new heights. I figure I'll have to switch to lacing it as I'm don't think I'm up to sewing that kind of thing and the lacing would hide a few mistakes....
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On another forum, I've discovered that Gum Tragacanth is sold in a powdered form for Cake Decorating. It's mixed together to form a paste that they somehow use? Not sure what that means for leather applications, but it was a weird enough bit of trivia that I thought I should pass it on.
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What finish are you using to set the color and prevent bleed?
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Hey Bob, Alot of us get the tortoise shell effect when we don't want the tortoise shell effect!
Like when we try to seal some colors that aren't compatible with our topcoat. When that happens we call it an "effect".
The computer crowd says, "It's not a bug; it's a feature!"
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This site from New Zealand claims it is round kangaroo, but the pix isn't very inspiring. Not to mention that the $55 inspection fee from US Fish & Wildlife on all import/exports of kangaroo makes me hesitate to buy a trial sample.
Finish Pro Clear from Springfield
in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
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I have 1/2 of a large bottle of the old Super Sheene. The last few projects have seemed to take on a Tacky finish. So, I'm guessing Super Sheene can go bad. I think I bought it pre-2010. Isn't that when Tandy changed formulas?