Peterk

Thanks! I just made a purchase today but just making a jump to Zack White premium grade with pasted backs for now as I've heard great things about them, and I need funds for new dyes and such to play with.

Thank you Dave for your help and comments. Those are some beautiful knife sheaths... I am just getting into holster-making and already thinking about the possibility of inlays in places where the molding may not be affected. I have yet to play with stamps but was thinking that may be possible way to do faux exotic. I will also check the link you gave to see if I can get some exotic to try with. I will certainly need your help on how some exotics will behave in the future. Thanks again. Peter

Thank you! Do you know of a source for the imprinted cowhide?

Hello all, Being a novice and looking to make holsters more as a hobby, I can't really afford the cost, and R&D to work with exotic leather such as shark, ostrich, elephant, etc. So I was wondering, has anyone attempted to simulate exotics? For example, using carving and beveling to simulate the texture of shark skin... Any ideas and tips would be greatly appreciated... I would love to sew an accent piece to my holsters and color it different to simulate an exotic. Thanks.

Hello all, I am starting to get into the realm of better leather than stuff you can get from Tandy, and have a few questions regarding the different treatment of leather backs (flesh side). Basically, what do these terms mean? Stirrup Flesh Pasted Flesh Buff Flesh So far I've had to deal with a lot of fuzz on the flesh side of leather I got from Tandy and had to use Bag Kote to "glue" them to the surface. I've read about burnishing them but it is quite a labor intensive process so looking for ways to order leather that is prepared so hoping this is the way. Thanks all!

Thanks much!

A chisel! Great idea, I will give that a try. Thank you.

Hi Lobo, I have used the Neatsfoot oil (not compound) and Bag Kote combo before, but also end up with a lightly tacky leather surface (sticky is more like it) after enough time has elapsed for drying purposes... Have you encounter this before? Thank you.

You are correct about the slots. I don't have the funds to purchase the Osborne oblong punch I wanted so I had to use the round punch/hobby knife method of cutting the slots and the double thickness of 8oz leather is not easy to cut through whilst keeping a straight line. They turned out useable but not to my standards at all so an oblong punch is definitely planned in my future purchases. The only dye I have right now is the Eco-Flo Bison Brown I got from Tandy. I apply it using airbrush and have not experienced the rub off problem I've read on this forum with regards to water-based dyes. On the P225 holster, I started rubbing the high points while the dye was not completely dry, to create a bit of "antigued" finish. The 1911 holster I just applied dye, let dry completely, burnish edges, apply neatsfoot oil and let dry, then airbrush Satin Sheen. I wanted to try out some car wax from Meguiar's and see what it would do to it so I did, and it made the leather feel really good and knocks down the sheen for a flatter finish; may try that again. I'm out of leather so I need to order more... Let's see who is having a sale...

By "light oiled brown shade", do you mean the current color of the Makarov holster? That holster is not finished yet actually, and so far only has a thin coat of Neatsfoot Oil applied by hand-rubbing. I started applying the neatsfoot oil after checking out a custom maker's website and wanted to experiment. Once dried, it actually gives a dyed holster a nice and darker sheen, and then I apply satin sheen on top of that.

Hello all, after making my first holster a couple of weeks ago and getting some great feedbacks and directions on method and tools, I've made three more for your review and critique... Finally finished using up the cheap leather from Tandy; can't wait to try better leather from Zack White (still learning so don't want to use Hermann Oak leather just yet. ). Please let me know what you think and constructive criticism will be greatly appreciated! Thanks much! P225/P6 - My second holster attempt. Kimber 1911 - My third attempt. Makarov - My fourth. Still to be dyed, edge burnished, finish applied, and inside burnished. First attempt with snaps.

does anyone make replicas of classic old west wheel guns? Like the Colt Single Action Army?

Has anyone made paddles out of leather for holsters? I've seen Kydex ones but am thinking of making a leather one out of double thickness 8-9oz leather or heavier for ease of putting on and taking off on hiking trips or other activities that will benefit from quick mounting of holsters. Thinking of a two-point attachment between the top of the holster and top of paddle with "something"... Don't know if I want a permanent option and what I have to do to make that attachment rigid... Any ideas, recommendations? Thanks.

Went by Tandy yesterday and picked up a small bag of their line 24 snaps. Visually these were a notch above what I got from Zack so I was hopeful. Anyway, the installation was straight forward and easy with the setter and anvil I got from Tandy, with an equal sized gold ring inside the snaps, and they snapped on and off with slightly heavier hand pressure without the need for hammer. Overall I am much happier now and finished my first snap-loop holster which is ready for dying. Thanks all!

I use the Iwata SAR single action internal mix airbrush... I was already using it to apply firearms finishes and for plastic modeling so I didn't have to make another investment to purchase. Never used a dauber and/or any other method of dying, and after using my airbrush, I can't imagine changing my method because it is easy to use and get an even coat. The Iwata is polished stainless and brass so it is weighted for ease of control, and it makes cleaning very easy, and allows change of dye flow and pattern during spraying by twisting the end of the barrel. It is designed to spray a detail pattern but open the needle a bit more and you get a large enough pattern to spray leather works. Check it out... I didn't want to spend too much for an airbrush but I also did not want to skimp and get a cheaper brush (I've had a paasche before and while useable, it does not compare to Iwata at same price range). The SAR is the cheapest of the Iwata line but I am not disappointed. Hope my opinion helps.

Didn't have choices how strong the snaps are, I just picked line 24 snaps in black from Zack White. I tried a couple sets of snaps within the package and they were all hard to snap together. Definitely couldn't snap them together with finger pressure but did not need to smack them hard to snap with a hammer. I didn't order too many so I am okay. Dot fasteners have a minimum order now so I will try Weaver to see how those work. Thanks all.

Thanks all for commenting... Shootersbox seems to be the cheapest out of my choices...

Where do you guys get your blue gun replicas from? I got quite a few results from Google search and the prices seem to vary quite a bit. Thanks. Pete

Thanks Lobo, I just finished my second holster and drew my stitching line a little less than 1/2 the thickness of the width of the pistol and the result was great! I think I will stick with what works here. Thank you very much! Pete

Just bought some line 24 snaps from Zack White to try my hand at installing them... Installation went very smooth with the anvil and punch, but then I had to beat it with the hammer to get the two halves to snap together, and pretty much the same amount of force to get them apart... Is this supposed to be like this? I had made my third holster with snap loops in mind and had to change my plan to a pancake because the snaps would tear through the 8oz leather if I were to force it apart... Just wondering what is going on here... Any ideas? Thanks. Pete

Given the same weight of leather used, would leather from different distributors behave differently when it comes to forming and determining stitch lines?

I am currently working with 8/9 oz leather. Haven't tried forming before laying the stitch line but I think I will give that a try next time.

Hello all, After making my first couple of holster attempts using the patterning techniques outlined here, I am pretty happy with the process, but I am wondering how some of the professional makers are able to get the stitch line (bottom along the trigger guard and front) so close to the form of the pistol. Per directions I've read and followed, I measure the width of my pistol and divide that in half to get the allowance I needed for molding the gun to the holster. I've found that usually the allowance turns out to be 3/8" outside the form of the pistol and put my stitch lines there, but then the stitch lines usually end up some distance away from the gun form. I don't really want to cut that distance down and end up not being able to stick my gun in while molding... Any suggestions in predetermining the stitch lines to get it real close to the gun? Thanks.

Actually I take that back, the double action pull on my Sig P225/P6 was worse until I did a trigger job on it.

Thanks for the tip! I have wondered about that... Good thing the Makarov has the heaviest trigger known to man.