Peterk

no I didn't take a shot of it being worn, but will probably do so tonight. Thanks.

Here is what I just finished. My first Glock 26/27/33 holster: Made to use with 1.25" dress belts...

RIP Lou! He helped me with a few holster questions long ago, and I met him a couple of times at SHOT... Always a gentleman and great mentor... He will be missed...

JRB, if you don't mind, what "grade" and weight of leather did you get from W&C? I've been wanting to order from W&C but due to time restraints I've had to run to Tandy to get some leather quickly. How was the ordering process for you? Thank you! Peter

What is the gold color rod next to the ruler?

Hi Boomstickholsters, first let me say thank you for the boning tutorial! I currently use the boning folder from Tandy (plastic) and when I used to use the edges to apply detail boning lines I always end up scratching or cutting the leather, even after I sanded and rounded the edges so I think I will have to get a wood one if I were to try this. I've read that someone else had used beveling tools used in carving to achieve their lines and shadows and I may give that a try as well. The color wax is applied after the spirit dye is sprayed on. I just figured out how I could smooth and even out any darker spots by using some cotton ball and rubbing alcohol and "push" the dye around. When they dry the finish is nice and even. After the dye has dried, I take a piece of wool and load it with color wax (angelus) of the same color as dye, then apply a coat to the holster. After letting it sit for a couple of minutes, I take another piece of clean wool and polish the holster to get the result you see. I have tried long and hard with Satin and Super Sheen, as well as neatsfoot oil to try to get this look to no avail, and then I got a can of wax just for the heck of it and it worked. I have asked my customer to test drive this new finish for me since this is the first set of leather I've used it on, and because he has one of the more active lifestyle and would put the set through its paces. I have applied the wax to shoes I wear daily and it has held up to the challenge. I still coat the inside of the holsters with Bag Kote though to get them slick and protected. I don't do much special to my edges and it shows compared to other masters who go through multi-level systems to get them looking like fine polished stone. My method is after dye has dried, I use 2000 grit automotive sand paper on edges to shave off any loose fiber, and then I use the bone folder with Gum Tragacanth for final polish; I finish up with Edge Kote and Bag Kote on top of that for hardness and shine. I used to not do the sanding prior to burnishing with folder, but never got good results so one day I decided to give sanding a try and discovered the secret. :-) I just purcahsed a wood bench burnisher however so I can use less elbow grease... Thanks all!

Don't think his biking shorts (really tight) would work well with IWB... :D Some people (like me) just can't get used to the IWB style; I just don't find it comfortable like this customer. He is more concerned with not having the holster sit too low from the belt, because that was what happened before and one of his neighbors saw it peeking under a T-shirt and called the cops on him even though he was on private property. I made this holster entire based on his drawings of where he wanted on the belt, and with the cant he wanted; it sits high but not uncomfortably so. The flatter profile should print minimally with the T-shirt.

Thanks Boomstickholsters! There are a lot of high standards to strive for with members here like yourself. I am loving Angelus spirit dyes more each time I use them... Night and day results from my early Eco-Flo finished holsters. The fact they don't rub off, and have deep penetration is a welcome change. Match it up with their colored wax polish and you have nice finished holsters in less steps.

I know exactly what you mean... I constantly scour the local gun shops who carry holster inventory just to check out design and construction ideas. While I always marvel at how detailed (and nice looking) those mass-produced holsters are, I can't help but notice how thin the leather is. I would venture to guess they are no more than 5 - 7oz. My holsters are 7 - 8oz typically because that is where I think the happy medium is between retention, boning detail, and durability of what my customers commonly ask for. Then again, the holsters being sold in stores are still useful, reliable and probably just as durable, so to each their own. My customers know they have me, and only me to deal with if they should have problems with their rigs; try that with mass-producers.

Gun: Sig P239 Belt: 1.5" Dye: Angelus Cordovan Edge: Edge Kote Finish: Satin Sheen & Angelus Cordovan Wax Did not put too much molding on this one so the customer's clothing won't have much to "catch" onto. Probably not an issue anyway but customer stressed that he wants uber concealability underneath thin t-shirts, while having enough retention for biking. Hope he likes it!

Would you mind sharing what molding tools you used?

Were those molding detail lines created with freehand groover? Nice job!

Thanks guys! Now I can add another detail/feature to my holsters.

Any idea where to find this part? Mainly for aesthetics...

Thank you much! I'll check it out today.

Thanks Jordan. I bought 1/2" and 3/8" versions yesterday online and will try them out once I get them. The 1/2" may be too long but I can always use them for mag carrier applications. Now to hunt down some rubber washers of the right size...

Thank you Jordan, What height chicago screws, and thickness of washer do you use? When I pulled one apart at the store yesterday the screw post was 1/2" tall and the rubber washer was probably 1/4" - 3/8" thick. I guess there'll be some trial and error involved (I use mainly 7-8oz leather) depending on leather... Tandy online only carries nickle ones so I will have to search for black.

I was asking the same exact question tonight to a friend whilst he was letting me run all over the gun store he works at looking at all the Galco, Bianchi, etc. holsters with tension screws on. By examination and by his experience, the rubber washer/grummet used in between the two leather halves actually pushes the leather halves apart, thus putting pressure on the screw and post (which by the way, were all chicago screw setups just like what Jordan had suggested earlier this thread) and keeps the screw in place. I figured if the need is there, I can always put a dab of locktite on it after I find the proper tension. Anyway, just sharing what I found out tonight.

thanks guys... I was hoping for a simple solution but looks like I will have experiment with the options you guys suggested by piece-mealing. If anyone knows of a simpler, one stop shop solution please feel free to chime in. Jordan, if you don't mind, where did you get your chicago screws and thick rubber washer from? Thank you!

Hello all, Where can you get those tension screws you see on some holsters, that are installed near the trigger guard on the leather and can be adjusted to loosen or tighten the "hold" on the gun? Thanks.

I also got this chuck http://caswellplating.com/buffs/chuck.htm... because the burnishing tool will require a long 1/2" threaded bolt that will allow for the length of the tool, I will chuck a 1/2" x 4 - 6" threaded bolt in this so I can use this wood tool.

Hi Julia, I got my extension from here: http://caswellplating.com/buffs/shaft.htm and I also found them here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=46622 for quite a bit cheaper. Please shoot me a message if and when your maker is producing those burnishing pieces... Thank you! Peter

Hi Dwight Glad everything worked out for you. I am currently still hand finishing my edges and that wasn't bad when I was making holster for myself as a hobby, but now that I have 5 - 7 orders pending from customer, that simply will not do... Needless to say I am searching for better alternatives. Speaking of, I'm hoping you can help me out now... Would you mind posting a picture of the edge burnishing "head" you made for your dremel? I had wanted to get one of those Fantastic leather edge burnisher heads for my bench grinder, but the RPM is just too high so I am looking for solutions for the dremel. Thanks for your help in advance! Peter

Yeah so far I told him basically that I can't promise him anything but that I will give it consideration. My customer's main thing is that he has never found a quality leather one from hardware stores, and now that he has found a canvas one with designs he likes, he would like one in leather. I have been troubling over pricing also, since I may need to invest in either some heavy gauge veg-tan, or latigo leather, which I may not use ever again (left overs) except for some very specialized projects, and I don't really want to have that stuff laying around. I will have to give this some more thought... Thanks all for your input.

Thanks jbird! I think what the customer wants is a combo, like those you can find at Home Depot or hardward supply shops where the belt and pouches are all sewn together already. I was thinking of Latigo since it has quite a bit of oil in it already (correct?) to fight off the moisture and cracking problem, but not sure if it will hold shape like the veg-tanned leather I am familiar with. 10 - 11oz is stout! Not sure if I can handle cutting that...