Rabble

I've only been doing leather work for a few months and the projects I've done so far have been wet formed holsters. I'd like to shout out a thank you to JLSLeather for the 1911 patterns and the very helpful guide on how to make a pattern for a different model. I promise I'll post a pic when I have one I feel good about. (should be soon, my latest (3rd) is coming out reasonably nice so far) I wanted to experiment/practice-the-basics, a bit (and do my first buckle) and thought it'd be fun to make myself a wrist cuff. I stopped wearing a watch a while back. Looking for some advise on how to treat the inside and outside of it and as I've already learned a lot from reading the forums here, was hoping I could impose on you guys and gals. The "outside" layer (with the strap/buckle) is 6oz veg tanned H. O. and has only been cleaned with Fiebing's Saddle Soap, then had an application of Fiebing's 100% pure Neatsfoot oil. The color came out so cool that way I decided not to dye it. That layer will be stitched onto the grain side of the "inside" layer (same leather) which has been cleaned, then dyed with Fiebing's Medium Brown Leather Colors. I believe this one is water based, it's my intention to switch to oil "Pro" line, but had this on the shelf. So, flesh side against my skin. I was thinking that Fiebing's Leather Sheen might not be good for the outside of something that i'd like to be pliable and somewhat soft, and was concerned it might crack... Though I would like the outside to be shiny. Think spit shined shoes. I have Resolene, Tan Kote, Mink Oil Liquid, and Golden Mink Oil (paste), Carnauba Creame (all Fiebing's), and a block of pure yellow Beeswax from Skakich (that I've yet to find a use for), on my shelf, and of course the items mentioned above. I'm open to ordering in something else if I need to. I'm not in any hurry and I don't mind putting in the elbow grease to get this done right. Amazing how much better things come out if I take it slow and careful. I don't expect the outside to take much abuse other than what the weather in Maine can throw at us (so, water), the inside would just be perspiration. Thanks in advance for any advice.

I'm looking at the Horse Shoe Brand Tools Quick Change Western Edge beveler available at http://www.ranch2arena.com/hsbtqctools.html after seeing a review by Nigel Armitage on you tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liakL3TyPA0 Anyone have experience with that one? The quick change handle has 5 different size bevelers (from 0-4) available that snap in. I have the same question as you regarding the correct size beveler to use with what leather. Please let me know what you find out.

Have been looking around for a concho that would be a replica of an old $20 gold piece... Anyone know where I might find such an item?

Thanks, good videos on how to do it, that was very helpful. I've been checking out other videos on sharpening swivel knives to try and learn what grit of whetstone they're using (Kevin didn't specify), but none of them have said. Amazon has 3 two-sided sharpening stones available. 1000/4000, 2000/5000, and 3000/8000. Any advice or opinions?

The Tandy knife is cutting into the leather, I've just got nothing to compare it to, so don't know if it's as smooth and easy a cut as it should be or if it'd be worth it to move up to a Barry King. Some of the videos I've watched make it look like the craftsman is putting quite a bit of pressure on the swivel knife, others not so much. It kind of surprised me that the knife wasn't sharp enough to break the skin on my finger and I wanted to know if that was the way it should be or if that blade should be sharper than that... I'm kind of methodical that way... I've been trying different ways of casing, latest is adding some saddle soap to the water I dip it in, then leaving it in a sealed "tupperware" type container overnight... This is inexpensive to do. I'm planning on buying some Herman Oak leather to see how that feels to tool. I'll use the leather either way, so not wasteful of my dollars. Buying a $50 knife just to see if it's a little sharper was something I'd wanted to avoid at this point. I'm just getting started.

I'd like to see what the fuss is about, please add me as well...

Is the blade on a swivel knife supposed to be sharp enough to break (my) skin? I just got a brand new tandy 8004-00 and even after stropping it a couple dozen times on a length of leather with jewelers rouge rubbed in, it leaves an indentation, but doesn't break the skin. Is that how it's supposed to be? It has an adjustable length, and I've got it to the maximum. Seems pretty comfortable as far as diameter of the barrel, but I don't have anything to compare it with. Was on here yesterday and saw a conversation about the swivel knifes at Barry King Tools but it's a little hard to tell from their website details on how they would feel... The length doesn't seem to be adjustable, they've got a lot of different barrel sizes, but hard to tell from a pic which would be best for me, I've got big hands... Any insight or advise would be appreciated.

Thanks Halitech, I'll get some 120 grit on order, be a while til I'm on that part of the project. Did a search and Amazon came back with some from Pro Edge that look real nice, but also a pair from Co-Link that look pretty good and are a lot less. Anyone have experience with them? Reviews seem pretty good overall.

Thanks for the quick responses. That's exactly what I was hoping to be able to do with it. Sounds like I'm in good shape speed wise. What grit of sanding drums would you recommend? I'll take a look around for a burnisher I can use with it. I'm only just getting started but will be doing a Slim Jim tooled holster for my first project. I'm planning on being a regular on these boards.

I'm just getting started and trying to put tools together that will help me. I have an old Dremel Tool, model # 380 66-3, looks to be variable speed from 5,000 rpm to 25,000. Can't find an owners manual on their site, was hoping to see what speed would be good for leather, I'm thinking this unit might be too fast. Is its lowest setting too fast? And if so, would anyone know if there is a way to slow it down to a more appropriate speed? Thanks, George