Gonnate

That's interesting - a strip on the inside? Would the water not creep into the outside seam then wriggle its way past the inside strip too once it was there? Or am I misunderstanding your suggestion? I've now got several possible answers - I like this group! :-)

Thanks, I'll think on possibilities of adapting this idea. A hidden poly film might indeed help. The lapping idea's one I'd vaguely wondered about too, and while a harp's a rather different shape from a Harley saddle, with more planes meeting at points... unless you have very strange shaped saddles :-) ... there are possibilities here too, I think.

Thanks to both for your quick replies; this sort of confirms what I thought, which is always cheering! I was wondering whether it would be better still, or just excessive, to add a thin leather strip right over the edges, stitched down each side parallel to the seam stitches. I'm sure there's a proper name for this, but you'll know what I mean :-)

Hello, First time of posting here for ages, but when last I visited I was always impressed by how helpful this group was! I'm making a leather case for my small medieval harp, to be carried backpack style. I realise veg-tanned leather is unlikely to be waterproof, but aim to make it at least shower resistant. I'm planning on normal style seams rathet than butt-jointed edges, for more strength, but can't decide whether it's better to turn the seam inwards or outwards to be more weatherproof. Inwards makes more of a channel for water to seep in if my stitching isn't tight, outwards leaves the edge showing, which may be more water-absorbent. Any advice welcome, please. I'll also welcome comments on favourite proofings/dressings which aren't horribly greasy, as it'll be worn when I have modern clothes too, while retaining a natural sort of look suitable for the historical appearance. Thanks, Richard.

I'll be looking with interest at the replies you get, Ray - always wanted to make a pair!

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<2. PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE! My first attempts looked like miniature relief maps of the Rocky Mountains. In time, you'll get better and the skive will get smoother.> Thanks for all the points... but no. 2 is very reassuring, because I was thinking at the time it looked like a geographical model! If I was kind I'd have said a very choppy sea. Perhaps I was being too kind to me!

Hi. I'm aware I only ever post here to ask questions, not yet offering anything, but I'm always really impressed by the generous help I get. (And you wouldn't want any advice from me yet - far too much to learn still!) I saw in some book that the halfmoon knife is the one to use for skiving... right or wrong I don't know. I found a lovely old one in an antique shop last year. And while I've used it, it's not a good experience yet! It's not an easy thing to know which grip to use, nor where to put the other hand so it holds the leather down but is still safely behind the very sharp edge in case of slips...I'd be truly grateful if anyone cares to post help on best way to hold it, hold other hand, any techniques... the lot :-) ... or have I got the wrong end of the stick & shouldn't be using this blade at all? Thanks as ever.

Hi Rawhide & Hilly, both truly useful,and I think I'll give both a go, thanks! I'll probably try the superglue trick now, and see about a chuck model for the longer term. Now where did I put that beeswax?! ( I know I have a good lump of it somewhere & it only turns up when I'm not looking for it....) Best wishes.

Hi, I have a nice new diamond section awl by C.S. Osborne which I got from my local Identity Store, marketing Tandy things here in the UK. I hadn't tried one before & really began enjoying it, but only a short way into the project the blade slid out of the handle, (it's not meant to be an interchangeable one) and now won't stay in it. It goes into the hole in the leather fine, then simply stays there as the handle pulls away. I've tried gripping it in pliers to ram it in, wrapping some thread round the tang, it still fell out, a small paper sleeve round it, ditto, heated it & burnt its own way a bit further into the handle, ditto... am I just unlucky, or do they do this? I don't think I've been rough with it! Next, which sort would anyone recommend, please? - bearing in mind that being in the UK affects supplier choice. Many thanks.

This sounds seriously useful... as long as I can get the skiving right ! Just to show my ignorance, when you say "A race taken along the two folds..." sorry, I need you to explain what a race is here. I suspect it isn't lots of little creatures competing to get to the other end first.... And how thin would you go down on the skiving? Thanks!

Thanks, MadMax22, I don't own it but recollect seeing it... someone I'm sure will correct me, but from memory I think he just deals with thinner leather, and is able to simply take it round the edge & fasten on the inside. My leather will be too thick for this to work. All ideas welcome, though!

Thanks both UKRay & ScottishShoemaker. And you were quite right about the papiermache! (Though it is good stuff. I made my ventriloquist figure's head from it & it has once fallen on concrete & survived unscathed!) Drilling holes.... hmm, lots, and LOTS of holes.... I like the brass strip idea, and I'd like the stitched through wood look - once I'd done it. I'll give 'em both a good think! All ye best!

Hi. I'm making a box for Northumbrian smallpipes... Many thanks to UKRay for dissuading me from making the whole thing from leather! The leather will now go round a plywood box, for appearance & extra protection. It's quite thick - 3mm, or 7-8 oz., depending which side you live! The problem I see in advance is fastening the leather to the edge "lips" of the box & the lid where they meet. I could just glue it up to the edge, but I reckon it'll start coming loose after use. It's too thick to simply bend back round the corner, so I have devised two possible solutions, and would like your comments on which may do better... or neither if you have a better idea, please. I could skive it thinner up to the edge of the wood, then wrap it round, but doubt my ability at skiving a 24" edge that consistently, and one slip would ruin it all. OR I could stitch it to some much thinner leather I have (goat) and then glue that round the edge, and tack in place on the inside. Suggestions will be most welcome. Thanks.

Thanks for the advice - this really is one of the most helpful forums I've ever found! Best wishes to all, Richard.

I believe it's veg-tan - it was certainly sold to me as veg, and other bits have reacted well to being wetted & worked, so I hope it is! For the edges I've used only bone & saliva, as recommended elsewhere in these pages... plus not much experience of boning yet! It is indeed moderately stiff - I just wondered if I could get a bit more squash-proofing for my instrument. Best wishes, Richard.

Hi. I've just got round to finishing a case to hold my low D whistle (If any of you play low whistles you'll maybe have met Phil Bleazey's and know how superb they are!) I learned a few more things about making mistakes on it... so that was useful! (Like fitting an oval end-piece to a tube. I'm still not sure how I ought to have done it, so I'm not showing you the slight waggle in the shape of the base, but the top went better!) It's got my own all-leather fastening on the side, so there aren't any buckles or hard bits to damage other instruments if it goes in the shared case. But I'd like to know if it's worth doing anything to make it more firm. I see from the tutorial on mask-making that you can "cook" the leather prior to moulding it, but I didn't have anything firm to mould it round at the time, so I just made it in fresh air. If I were to give it a bit of cooking in water then hot-dry it quickly, would it just ruin it, or make it more rigid? I think it would be right to then put some neatsfoot oil or something onto the top strap so it stayed flexible. With thanks for any comments, Richard.

Now that's SERIOUSLY cunning! But nylon thread??? Heaven forfend indeed. I am mostly self-taught, but I came into it partly through the history re-enacting business, so you're safe there. No Nylon Shall Pass! What I really regret is that I never met my mother's father - he died long before I ever came to be - who was a Master Shoemaker in the days of all hand-making. There I could have learned a few things! Thanks again for the advice, Richard.

Thanks to all for these replies - I'll try the extra turn round the needle as well. All good wishes to all, Richard.

Hi all, This question shows just how self-taught you can get ... When I get to the end of a seam of saddle stitches I tend to double back down the last hole or two, then tie the 2 ends of thread on the side which won't show so much. It's secure, but looks a bit clumsy. What's the proper way to do it, please? Thanks, Richard.

... but seriously, who took the p out of clams? I mean, it ought to be clamp in modern English, so is it an older version of the word, or just plain odd? R.

But are you sure it's a consenting clam????

... I'm just faintly surprised they didn't put "collar makers for the use of" as well! Richard

Thanks for the advice. In response to the request for pics - I've just posted some in the Leather History forum, titled "Her Majesty's Official Defensive Clam" I hope they're interesting enough - it's just this clam really! Best wishes, Richard.

Hi. In replies to my query about whether I should stick leather pads to stop the jaws of this beast damaging my work, I was asked for pics of it, so it seems best to put them here. It's the label which really impresses me - I don't suppose the clam is that much different from most others - ? I got it from ebay some 18 months ago & have only just begun using it, as I slowly learn more. Best wishes to all, Richard.