rameyleathercraft
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About rameyleathercraft
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Rank
New Member
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Location
Dallas
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Interests
Small Projects; Western; Journaling
LW Info
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Leatherwork Specialty
Rustic, Western Leather Items
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Interested in learning about
Leather Types, Dyes, Fancy Tooling
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Thanks for the responses. I have a Japanese set of diamond chisels (prinking irons) 4mm. They are very good and I use them the most. I didn't know until recently that im really not supposed to use them to punch all the way through the leather, just mostly then finish with my awl. So that's a change. Concerning the dye. I started pre-dampening the leather with a coat of neatsfoot oil. It has made a huge difference! The leather remains much more supple after dying. I then buff and apply my new Aussie Leather Conditioner; which really helps as well! Definitely a much improved finish. Thanks all. I'll need to order some thread sizes and maybe a different chisel set. right now all I have is the 4mm, and awl, and a stitching wheel with three different "wheels".
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Harness leather case
rameyleathercraft replied to JamesR's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
I think that is an excellent bag.- 17 replies
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- w&c harness
- tiger thread
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(and 1 more)
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Thanks for the input guys. Here are the changes I'll make, 1). Order Aussie Conditioner as a finish; beeswax base finish helps improve water resistance. 2). Order better quality leather; from my searches, I think I will be ordering HO leather from Springfield leather ~10.99 for B grade (all they had available.) 3). I will continue cutting my feibings dye with denatured alcohol; as I have heard that is fine and normal practice and I like testing colors. Additional Questions.... What "cut" of the hide is generally the most flexible project wise. what "cut" is best? Is shoulder typically very tough and stiff? Is the bend a more supple, but still durable leather? (Majority of my projects are journal covers, modina style field notes, knife sheaths, holsters, messenger bags, and eventually more complicated computer cases.The first leather I bought was 8-9 oz double shoulder -Tandy and it was hard to make flexible enough for some projects.) Is a 4mm pricking iron set good for most projects? What mm difference do you think is best for small and larger projects? Thanks again.
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thanks for the replies. It helps a lot. To answer some questions... 1) leather is 8-9oz; veg tanned, double shoulder from Tandy's. I think I paid around $40 if that is a tell of the quality. It is also very "hairy" on the flesh side. (please; help me understand how to choose better quality leather and where! This leather was fine for the project; but better items will need better leather in the future). 2) I diluted the feibings dye because they always came out much darker than I wanted. A light brown would look like dark brown. I "cut" the dye to get different shades of color. I have seen no noticeable difference in the "stiffness" between pure dye and my "cut dye". So Im not too concerned there. 3) I typically dampen leather before dying with water --- is neatsfoot a better way to go? 4) the armoral helps soften the leather a good bit along with the neatsfoot oil (from Tandy as well). What is a good sealant besides neatsfoot oil? I heard of "sno-seal" but I didn't find any at my local walmart (which stated they have it).
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Please Advise. New Leatherworker here. I have been using Feibings Dyes (non-pro) and reducing them in denatured alcohol. I've done small projects; so alcohol to dye ration is about 5:1 (typically 20cc alcohol to 5cc dye). After I let it sit for 24 hrs; I apply two coats of neatfoot oil (from a rag); and then a armor-all leather conditioner gel. My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather? Any help would be appreciated.
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rameyleathercraft started following Help New Leather Worker
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Please Advise. New Leatherworker here. I have been using Feibings Dyes (non-pro) and reducing them in denatured alcohol. I've done small projects; so alcohol to dye ration is about 5:1 (typically 20cc alcohol to 5cc dye). After I let it sit for 24 hrs; I apply two coats of neatfoot oil (from a rag); and then a armor-all leather conditioner gel. My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather? Any help would be appreciated.