bvc79

It was an old comic. I couldn't resist the comment. I'm a dork. With the USMC black, is there any way to get it to stop bleeding? If I keep pouring on the resolene (not literally) will it help at all, or should I just move on to another belt, with different dye?

Thanks, Mutt and Jeff!

That'd be the one. Is there a black dye you'd recommend?

I'm new to this, and I recently started on a belt. I dyed it, dried, neatsfoot oil, dried, and then resolene. I've tried both diluted and nondiluted resolene and I'm still getting transfer. I thought I did a really good job of buffing the excess dye... is there something else I could've done wrong?

Thanks guys!

I've noticed when using fiebings spirit dye that things tend to harden up. Is applying neatsfoot oil the best method to soften up a piece after dyeing, or is there a better process?

Any recommendations on the best tool to use for skiving straps? I've been doing it with mixed results with layers of playing cards, and a japanese skiving knife. After today, I'm fed up with doing it the 'creative' way. Sorry for the newbie question, but I am after all, a newbie. :/ -Brian

Also, my handle is just my initials, and my driver number for the taxi company I work for. They don't allow us to have names any more, being cabbie scum, after all. My maker's mark is still in the design process, as I am incredibly new to this, and I'm trying to keep focused on building my skills before I dare to dream of needing a mark or needing a company name.

I like the design, Mutt, I wish the idiots had cut the stamp right for you. I wonder if you could find someone to even it out? I know very little about stamp making, but may someday I hope to fabricate one myself. I was going to look into just getting a structural bolt or something, removing the thread, flattening the head, and figuring out how to carve the image in. (I imagine that being a lot more difficult than I'm assuming, though)

Thanks, Tom! I will put that into practice immediately!

I am a complete and total newbie. I dyed some coasters, and all of the colors turned out way darker than expected. I used fiebings dye prep, mocassin dye, and dark brown. The moccassin looks very dark brown, and the dark brown looks almost black. Is my wool dauber depositing too much dye? Should I be using a scratch free sponge? Any suggestions on what I've done wrong?

Thanks guys! I'm on my way to pick up a slab of quarts remnant, and some other 6 x 6 x 1.5 sample pieces from a local stone company. They insisted on giving me samples "so I can think about a stone work surface counter in the future." ... for the keychains and coasters I plan on starting with, these'll work! I'll probably break down and have them make me a nice slab once I move on to bigger, better things!

Does a quarts slab provide an extra benefit, or can I get away with using a smooth cutting board or other smooth flat surface? I could've sworn I came across a thread that detailed this, but have been unable to find it since.

I've used some sturdy felt for this cheap pony. I'm stingy and I didn't want to waste leather on a placeholder piece.

I have my brother (a master woodworker) building me a nice stitching pony, but I wanted something in the mean time. I knocked out a cheap stitching pony (about $14) with my limited woodworking tools (and skills!). Due to a whoopsie based on said shoddy tools/skills I had to recut the 45 degree angle up by the jaws one the moveable arm. If you look closely, you'll notice that the "jaws" that hold the piece in place are slightly different sizes. Will this have a detrimental effect on anything I clamp in? Thanks, Brian