RobC01
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How can one check the hook on a 227 if we want to use 207?
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It’s my first industrial or leather machine so I wanted to be sure. These models and makes are all so similar, but some end up having differences in capabilities (thread and material thickness) or have some parts or features that other near identical machines don’t. I emailed Toledo with the SN to verify. For now I’m using a Consew 227R PDF manual to get familiar with it. The seller said it lost timing and wouldn’t pick up thread because he tried too much material. Hopefully I can get it set up and figure out how to adjust it. Repairs or not- it seemed like a good deal he sold them together for $1000.
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For my first run at “industrial” level sewing, I acquired two used machines at what I considered a good price. One is a Tandy Stitch Master and the other might be a Cowboy 227-R. I say “might” because there’s no manual and no data plate. The seller didn’t know. It also looks slightly different than the 227 closeup on the Toledo website. The machine I have has different holes at the base of the head. I’m not sure if that is just variance from the factory or not? I’m going to see what I can figure out using the Consew 227R manual. PS: The Stitch Master has its manual . Any help or advice for either is appreciated!
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I think for future projects, I need to just start with a quality knife. Wetting the edge did help when using a Dremel to clean up cutting errors. I used a #3 edge beveler, and I've got a set of Cocobolo burnishing wheels that I'm getting ready to try using instructions I found pinned on here by Bob Park. I'll also be checking out the YouTube sources you mentioned, I'm trying to soak up as much info as possible! Thanks!
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Do you wet your edges before sanding? I was thinking about using a Dremel, but it seemed to rough up the dry edge and throw a lot of 'dust'.
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Another newbie question: Tandy had their Christmas special on Pro stamps, so I picked up several that caught my eye- mainly borders. My question is how can I make an square or circular pattern with a border stamp? D2176 for example? Some like D2186 have the single shape (D2185), so there's some ability to adjust placement to make a curve. Am I just out of luck on the D2176 pattern?
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I appreciate the tips Bob! Thanks!
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Wow, really nice details! I wish I had better hand-eye coordination and craftsmanship.
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This piece has a really nice finish that I'd like to duplicate. I haven't done any antiquing before but I've read some notes on here. I'm a little confused about how to get the look if I've already dyed/painted with Acrylic (Angelus)? Do I still need to resist, or does acrylic do that for me? Any guesses on the products? Fiebrings and Tan-Kote?
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Excellent, thanks!
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Thanks to all! Sorry, I should have been more descriptive on the razor knife. What grit sandpaper do you recommend?
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I'm just getting started in leather working and I've got questions about cutting. Some of the shapes I'm needing have curves and angles. I'm using 8-9oz leather and a husky razor knife. I'm having trouble following my trace and leaving little cut "burrs" when I have to re-cut over a line due to thickness or not staying in the line. 1. Can someone recommend a different tool or method? 2. Will an edge slicker sufficiently smooth those cut burrs? Thanks for any help.
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Old thread, but do you happen to have a pattern in PDF?