DV8DUG
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Posts posted by DV8DUG
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What's the status of the free advertising? ... Any publicity for my wares would be awesome....
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I'm pretty sure the segmentata way will be the most comfortable. As far as leather over metal and total flexability look up lamellar armor and the Japanese have some of the most impressive. The picture I've included is NOT scale armor but careful lamellar construction. Scale being defined as needing a 'shirt' or starter garment whereas lamellar armors are laced in rows then the rows are joined giving full maneuverability.
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I have been an avid bowhunter for almost 35 years. I have found that if your getting slapped in the arm, your holding the bow wrong. Usual culprit is the bow is too stout for the shooter, and the shooter feels the need to heel the grip to control the bow. Another obvious culprit of being slapped in the forearm, you have too long a draw length. Pick a spot!
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Yeah Billybopp I got that part. What I was asking was how to preserve that pale pink of the veg-tan that is undyed or painted in an effort to keep the pinkish veg-tan color.
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On 4/20/2018 at 6:39 PM, bikermutt07 said:@DV8DUG, here may be the person to ask...
Those look really good, thanks for sharing.
Was there a question here for me to answer or did you mean the OP could be the person to ask about a question of mine?
Anyways... A Finch... I like the work except the fact that if you are an experienced archer you do not require an arm guard as nice as it looks and if you do wear one, be careful that those buttons don't interfere with the string or vica-versa. Maybe switch them around to the inside of the arm-guard because they are close enough to the outside edge i don't think function will be lost. I'm interested in your outside edges. Rolled over or did you glue a piece over the edge or is it just a sewing channel cut in like a border? Hard to see but I like the puffy look I'm getting from pictures.
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Here's the two grooves on either side of the raw veg tan strip...
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I don't always have the $$$ to give away for something I can fabricate from crap laying around the workshop.
From left to right, rear row--> large bag punches and wide oblong specialty punch, variable size billet tip 'V' shape, several size 1/2 round billet tips, 90 degree rounders and full cirlcle punches. The very far back is a gear tip cutter for steampunk projects.
Front row, left to right--> wood handle is stitching groover/border tool. I have a long cutter that goes out to 6", wire shaped tool is freehand groover. the square root looking tool is another billet tip cutter. The fork is obviously a thonging chisel and the handle from fork is a french skiver.
I still use these tools everyday... My cost is just time spent digging around garage looking for pipe scraps and the time to make the tool itself...
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I am making a harness/blouse and I have a 1/4" strip of leather between two grooves as a border on the pieces. I wish to retain the pale look of the veg tan on this strip and dye the rest to a dark brown. What is the best way of doing this. If I need to post a picture or two to clarify please just ask.
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That's because of the moisture content I'm sure. Once tanned properly everything should tool well. Maybe just a leg to start with and get a feel for it.
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Welcome back... Sounds weird since I'm new. Let's see some pix!!!
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On 2/23/2018 at 6:26 AM, Sheilajeanne said:I just purchased a Craftool Pro stitching chisel because they are on sale right now if you're an elite member. It's a 3 mm, and measuring the prongs with a ruler confirms that. I compared it with the regular chisel I already have which is supposed to be a 2 mm - says so right on the handle! Nope, its prongs are actually 4 mm apart!
Crazy, really...
Bastards! Are they same brand?
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Does anybody happen to know the mm equivalent of Craftools Sizes? The only info I can find is "The larger the number, the wider the bevel." LOL
I have a size #2 and a size #3 but the #2 is still a bit large for 3/4 oz. leather. Any help?
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10 hours ago, 480volt said:One last comment about your project. In my own opinion, the steampunk esthetic has slid from an attempt at (sort of) a plausible adherence to a story line or actually functional things, to “stick a bunch of brass gears and shit on it”. I think you get high marks for making something that looks practical and functional.
Thank you. I agree about the functional aspect of anything... or else it's just a pile of gears and crap like you said.
On a side note... One of my future projects is to be putting picatinny rails and laser sights on a flintlock... Gotta love the anachronistically incorrectness of it.
Thank you all for the nice words.
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Hella cool...
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45 minutes ago, rodneywt1180b said:Back to the armor. Great job on it! Very cool. Is it for yourself or are you selling it?
I'm selling it. I have a few more I've made or 'up-cycled' like this one:
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6 hours ago, YinTx said:As in scrap left over from furniture manufacturing, or some infectious waste infested material removed from the rubbish bin?
Well I did do some dumpster diving to get this material.
6 hours ago, Horsemint said:That's really cool. Are the scales scraps left over from cutting out other pieces?
Yes. These particular pieces were actually shaped like willow leaves, so each scale is one of those cut in half. I had to "pick" each leaf off of a tanned side with big pieces cut out from the manufacturing process. Each side only had like 10-15 leaves... The rest of the leather I hand punched to make other lamellar armor and items.
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Bring back the photos please...
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On 1/29/2018 at 2:42 AM, dGinLeatherCraft said:Thanks - I used a coat hanger for the curves and the hook in the middle of the hanger allows lining up on centre marks, low tech works most of the time
Huh?
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OK. How about taking new pix altogether? Can't see much for detail...
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I'm sure the backpack will turn out as nice as this did. Nice Work!
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Sweet work. Very nice.
Finally finished the gentleman's steampunk corset
in Art
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The straps are too short, squared ends look bad, and improper technique for attaching them. IMHO.