doorty

Yea, that's what I'm struggling with. It keeps recoiling.

I tried to use clips to keep the elastic stretched while sewing but it was near impossible. Anyone have suggestions? I want to add an elastic pocket to the side of a bag.

I know cushion silk can be used over foam to waterproof, but is there tape or sealant to put around the stitches?

Just did a test on some scap, and it works! Thank you so much for telling me this is possible. I was even able to backstitch. The only issue I have is that when I make a mistake, it's not possible to perfectly backtrack through the foam. You end up stitching the foam between the initial and backtrack hole. It's not that big a deal as I can cut the thread and start over on that section.

LP? I looked up Obenauf's, but it darkens leather. It's hard to find something will not darken. You're right, it already appears sealed, so I guess it's best to wait. I was just thinking to give it a little extra protection as I know it'll be getting some sweat while riding this summer. Thanks for the response.

True. In the case, you recommend just cleaner and conditioner?

I bought some aniline chrome tanned leather for a motorcycle seat. I know acrylic resolene works well for veg tanned, but what do you recommend for chrome tanned to give it some extra protection from sweat, sunlight, and rain?

Okay. I'm sold. If you've done it before, then it must be doable. I ordered some of that 1/2" fabric backed foam and will give it a try when it arrives. Yea, I've seen others do that. Thanks for reminding me. Though I imagine blind back stitching will be near impossible.

Okay. I think I understand now, in theory. In practice, you'll be poking blindly several times to find the right hole and then hoping not to pierce the lead thread. I don't know. To me, this sounds harder/riskier than the leather-foam-vinyl sandwich technique. Maybe I'm missing something. It's a good suggestion and might be worth a trial run to know for sure.

Hmm.. How would you find the stitch hole through the foam?

Thanks. I saw that a while back. (I actually linked to that in my original post.) Unfortunately, I don't have a sewing machine, so I have to get creative. The best technique I've heard so far is sandwiching two pieces of leather with foam, but I don't want to use leather for the internal part of the sandwich because I won't be able to access it to add oils/waxes after it rains and drys out.

Thanks. This is very helpful. The black california latigo sounds nice, but I really want my bag to age like these shoes in the attachment. Hide house said they didn't have anything like that. I know chromexcel will give me this effect, but it's not stiff enough to standup. That is why I was considering a stiffener for the gusset I was considering the vinyl because I also need an internal fabric to sew pleats on a motorcycle seat. This bag is for a motorcycle saddlebag, so it could get caught in the rain. Yes, I think nylon webbing is what I heard others use (like Saddleback). Thanks.

I'm thinking for the internal backing of the pleats to use marine grade vinyl. Thoughts? If I use leather, I won't have access inside the seat to maintain it and eventually it'll dry out and be uncomfortable to sit on.

I've been doing a lot of research, but I still have some questions: Thoughts on bag liner? I was thinking of using a marine grade vinyl because it'll be water resistant (for gym clothes inside or rain outside), and I think it'll work with hand stitching when punching stitching holes? Thoughts on bag stiffener? I'm not sure whether I should use veg tan or if these bag stiffener or terraflex products can hold up to the elements outdoors. I just want it stiff enough to stand up on it's own, so I'm thinking I could just use the stiffener on the gusset. Can these stiffeners break like plastic or become deformed when wet? P.S. What material do you layer in leather straps to prevent stretching?

Thanks, I already placed an order from HideHouse. I wish Savmore was a bit more organized and updated their stock online as I'd prefer to buy locally.

Thanks guys. I guess you just look at what others have done. Based on the original post, it looks like about 1" straps of 6oz leather with brass/copper hardware should hold to a moving motorcycle.

Please let me know your resources. I've recently moved toward copper rivets, but I'm curious to know more about this method for brass rivets.

I want a collection of rivets, rings, snaps, etc. for a variety of projects, like maybe 10 each of everything in antique solid brass. Instead, when I go online (thebuckleguy.com) to purchase they want me to buy a 100-pack (or 1 pound) in a single size rivet. It would cost me $100 on only a few sizes of rivets not to mention d-rings, etc. I'm just a hobbyist that wants a well-stocked collection for the odd project. Does anyone sell a multi-pack or smaller quantities in solid brass?

Thanks for confirming. Can you recommend any videos/websites that explain the different kinds of rivets? Is it common not to hammer the stalk flat? I noticed Saddleback leather also has rounded saddlers rivets. They also use another rivet that is hollow in the back. I'd like to be able to make an educated decision about when to use which rivet. Thanks.

I see this type of rivet used on motorcycle saddlebags. From my research, it looks like a saddlers brass rivet? But you are supposed to hammer down the stalk, right? Please advise on rivet and tools. Thanks!

That's true, a longer slit may help, but have you ever tried putting the slit on the opposite side like in the my picture with the red line?

I always see the hole slit on the side that the stud will be pulled into by tension, but this seems like it will cause a tear or increase in hole size over time. Instead, why not put the the slit on the opposite side of the tension? That way the force is on the hole instead of the slit. I assume there is wisdom in the traditional method, but I wonder if anyone has considered an alternative direction for the slit.

Yea, I wouldn't be surprised if those were old US Army boots. I have some dark brown motorcycle boots that break tan like the photo, but it's bit harder to find black.

Good find. That blog does appear to have a nice distressed black with tan pullup, but it's a bit too distressed I decided. What I'd like is more like the boots, where it's a rich black but when scuffed and folded it breaks tan. I want the patina to occur a bit slower and more naturally.

Thanks. I stopped by Sav Mor the other day. They were a bit limited for what I was looking for and nothing in the store was labeled. I'm not sure if that's common for these places. I'll check out Saderma next time I'm in that area. District Leather Supply has a beautiful selection but it looks to be veg tan in small sizes. I have some samples from Hide House and Mavericks Leather coming in the mail. Thanks.