DanDSilva

Thank you. I'll check out Montana, Brettuns and Springfield today. From what I've seen of Tandy bellies, they're a little too thin even at their thickest, and too narrow. I've long wondered whether there'd be any way to make piecing and lamination work, but the historical example I'm looking at appears to be a single piece in a single layer 5mm thick.

Hello, I'm looking into making a leather buckler. I figure veg-tan in the 12+oz range would be the best starting place, but I'd rather not pay for an entire sole bend when I'm only going to be using a few feet. Is there anywhere, preferably Stateside, that'll sell thirds or quarters of a bend or anything like that?

Well, I'm not really concerned about completely waterproofing it, so long as it holds its shape and the dye doesn't run. What is Resolene like to work with? I take it that if you can add conditioners afterward, it must leave the surface permeable rather than forming a solid surface film. Does it tend to stiffen the leather? How does it compare to Leather Sheen? Should've mentioned before: I currently have Sof Sole Leather Lube, Wright leather conditioner with mink oil, and some old Kiwi Wet-Pruf that's dried up to the point that it has a texture like beeswax. Would any of these be useful, or should I get Snow Proof instead? I also have a block of pure beeswax.

Hello. I'd like to make an all-leather Greek fisherman-style cap. So to keep it simple, I figure the crown would be made of chrome-tanned garment leather and the visor would be molded from some lightweight veg-tan I have on hand, and dyed black to match the rest of the cap with some Fiebing's which I also have (I'm going to try to buy the garment leather already dyed). My questions being: Is the design overall going to do okay in the rain as long as I let it dry overnight or longer when I get home? Is there a finish I can put on the visor so it'll remain at least a bit flexible, won't soften and deform in the rain, and the dye won't rub off? Thanks in advance.