DanDSilva

I recently assembled this knife. The conceit in its design is that it's owned by a sailor, so it's got stabilized grips, stainless and brass parts, etc. I would like it to have a somewhat traditional leather sheath, something like this: http://www.weber-messer.eu/store/product_info.php?products_id=894 What kind of dye and finish can I give it that won't bleed dye, won't crack if flexed, and will hold up relatively well against saltwater and shifting humidity? I don't expect it to be immortal, but I'd like to prolong its lifespan. Currently have on hand Fiebings USMC black, Fiebings brown and black LeatherColors (the water-based stuff you'd find in an arts-and-crafts store), Leather Sheen, Resolene, Liquitex acrylic varnish, mink oil, pure neatsfoot oil, olive oil, Leather Lube and Sno Seal. If that doesn't suffice, I can order additional supplies when we get to June.

So, what I've found over the last few years is that these visors don't really need molding as long as the inner edge is just concave enough. When it's stitched into place, it'll assume a downward curl naturally. Here's an early attempt: This one has a less concave inner edge, so it curls down more: As far as the finish goes, I think just an oily/waxy water-resistant finish that's still flexible is preferable to a hard acrylic finish that might crack when creased. The first one is made with some Crazy Crow blacksmith side leather; the second is just light/midweight veg-tan with oil, Sno Seal and conditioner.

I wouldn't really know how to judge whether it's incompletely tanned, but it doesn't strike me that way. It's about the firmness and flexibility that I was expecting: more flexible than a veg-tanned cowhide strap of similar thickness, firmer than German buckskin. I've so far set one piece to soak in a lemon juice solution, but I'll have to wait for the saddle soap until next time I can go shopping.

That's an interesting idea. I should've specified, though, that I'm trying to keep the piece natural or at least natural-looking, since it's for a historical reenactment. Don't intend to dye it or apply an acrylic finish, for instance.

Okay. The piece has a few extra inches, so I'll give them both a try.

Hello again. I finally got a belt blank from Roy Najecki some weeks ago. It stinks like burned rubber. I assume this is because it has sulfur added, but I've never read that it has a characteristic smell -- I sorta expected it to smell fishy, like German buckskin. Whatever the reason, it's bad enough that I don't even want to be in the same room with it. I've left it out in the garage in the meantime. Anybody know of a way to get it to fade faster? Thanks.

Thanks. I was aiming for about 16 inches. A few weeks ago I decided to just use a wood blank I had on hand and cover it in thin leather.

Thank you. But I'm not actually looking to make shoe soles. What I'm considering is a shield; one like this, but roughly half the diameter; that's why I call it a buckler. http://bronze-age-swords.com/Clonbrin_shield.htm

Thank you. I'll check out Montana, Brettuns and Springfield today. From what I've seen of Tandy bellies, they're a little too thin even at their thickest, and too narrow. I've long wondered whether there'd be any way to make piecing and lamination work, but the historical example I'm looking at appears to be a single piece in a single layer 5mm thick.

Hello, I'm looking into making a leather buckler. I figure veg-tan in the 12+oz range would be the best starting place, but I'd rather not pay for an entire sole bend when I'm only going to be using a few feet. Is there anywhere, preferably Stateside, that'll sell thirds or quarters of a bend or anything like that?

Well, I'm not really concerned about completely waterproofing it, so long as it holds its shape and the dye doesn't run. What is Resolene like to work with? I take it that if you can add conditioners afterward, it must leave the surface permeable rather than forming a solid surface film. Does it tend to stiffen the leather? How does it compare to Leather Sheen? Should've mentioned before: I currently have Sof Sole Leather Lube, Wright leather conditioner with mink oil, and some old Kiwi Wet-Pruf that's dried up to the point that it has a texture like beeswax. Would any of these be useful, or should I get Snow Proof instead? I also have a block of pure beeswax.

Hello. I'd like to make an all-leather Greek fisherman-style cap. So to keep it simple, I figure the crown would be made of chrome-tanned garment leather and the visor would be molded from some lightweight veg-tan I have on hand, and dyed black to match the rest of the cap with some Fiebing's which I also have (I'm going to try to buy the garment leather already dyed). My questions being: Is the design overall going to do okay in the rain as long as I let it dry overnight or longer when I get home? Is there a finish I can put on the visor so it'll remain at least a bit flexible, won't soften and deform in the rain, and the dye won't rub off? Thanks in advance.