KenJWan
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Posts posted by KenJWan
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14 hours ago, ThatTallChick said:What?! This is only your second pair? That's amazing, they look really really good! Are they comfortable? Do you find them to be cheaper, and of better quality than those you were purchasing (excluding the cost of time)?
That imgur post was super informative. Honestly it looks really tedious, but it must be super rewarding! I definitely want to try this at least once in my life-- maybe I'll start with a simpler pair of shoes, like some flats or something. This is absolutely just the coolest thing.
Thank you so much for your response, you were super helpful!
Thank you. The black harness boots are my fifth pair. The brown engineers were my second. I have a pair of black engineer boots that were an evolution and my favourite.
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On 3/23/2021 at 7:59 AM, ThatTallChick said:WOW! This is amazing! I have so many questions but I don't know where to begin-- how did you start making shoes, and how did you learn? This is so cool! Are there special types of tools that you need to make these outside of the normal leatherworking set? Do you wet the leather and shape it into the boot shape before working with it, or does the shape just come as you build it? Is the opening at the top burnished? What kind of leather did you use for these? Sorry for all the questions I just... I'm just in awe honestly this is so cool!
I actually started because I realized how much I was willing to spend on decent boots and thought, "I'm handy! I wonder what it would take to make my own?" I then looked for some resources online to understand the process and once I understood the basics from start to finish, I just decided to try it. There was one decent post I found on Imgur https://imgur.com/a/VGPyZ where a guy basically did something similar that I found very helpful in understanding the process.
I basically looked at the nicer boots I owned (the style I wanted to tackle) and mentally dissected the components, figuring out how the parts were put together. I got a few basic tools to get started. Hand cut the pieces and just started assembling. A must-have tool would be lasting pinchers. You'd also need a leather sewing machine (most importantly, a post bed machine... which I had access to).
You don't need to wet the leather for lasting (shaping on the last). The top is a skived strip of leather, sewn and then rolled over the top. These are Horween CXL but with a bit of research, you can find out what types of leather are typically used for good boots. Weight would be 5-6oz (or a bit lighter or heavier, depending on the type of boots you are making (dressier vs work).
Hope that helps.
By the way, these are the second boots I made. Each time, I've refined a bit more.
20 hours ago, MikeRock said:Nice! They look like Lara Croft boots with Angelina Jolie~~
God bless
Thanks! But I'm pretty sure Angelina Jolie wore different boots. LOL!
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Thanks! It’s been a fun learning process.
the uppers are machine stitched with a post-bed Adler machine I have access to.
excited to finish them!
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On 12/29/2020 at 7:29 PM, ryano said:Great looking quality boots! Can you elaborate on your lasts? Were they wood, plastic, 2 piece, modified cowboy lasts, shoe lasts, munson lasts? What type of sewing machine for the uppers and soles?
Thanks!
Hey, just saw your post.
It’s a synthetic last with a hinge. Originally started as a longer, narrower lace-up last. I sanded down the toe to make it the rounder shape I wanted, as well as flattened it a bit. I’ve since refined it a bit more and will send it back to the manufacturer to get it properly made.
As for the machine, it’s an Adler post-bed I have access to at the shop.
I’ve further refined the style and when I get the new last, plan to make up some new ones.
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On 7/28/2020 at 7:14 PM, AlexOstacchini said:Very tidy work. I always think clean designs like this are very unforgiving, in that mistakes really stick out, but this is excellent. Fourth project you say? Wow.
Great Stuff
Many thanks!
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19 hours ago, Eric51767 said:Those look awesome! Did you have a pattern?
Thanks! I made one.
18 hours ago, toxo said:Outstanding work. Very well done.
Thank you!
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It's a hand-modified last from a mexican manufacturer that my bootmaker friend hooked me up with.
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On 7/24/2020 at 7:40 AM, JayEhl said:Gosh, this your 4th project? These look awesome! What's on the bottom of the soles? And what are they used for?
You mean the nails? Reinforcement to hold side of vamp/heel cup to insole and half-sole to midsole.
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On 7/24/2020 at 6:14 AM, Scoutmom103 said:Those looks nice. What machines did you use to make these?
The only really good machine is a post-bed Adler leather sewing machine. Otherwise, a hydraulic sole press, a MacKay stitcher, and sanding/buffing machine. Hand cut pattern that I designed, hand lasted, hand channeled insoles, hand welted, etc.
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On 2/26/2020 at 1:15 PM, Vikefan said:Man... I wish I could build shoes/boots..
Great Job!!! Looks great!
Vikefan
Why can't you? I just decided to try!
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4 hours ago, RockyAussie said:Very well done and the lasting looks excellent. I think like with knives and their pouches you should be showing the lasts beside as well
One question ....what do you mean when you say " Unstructured toe" ???
Toe is not hard reinforced and will flatten a bit over time for a vintage look
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Well, in case anyone is interested and haven't noticed yet, I just finished my second pair of boots. HUGE improvement over the previous version. I'm extremely happy with them! Take a look:
https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/89001-my-second-leather-project/?tab=comments#comment-608792
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On 2/23/2020 at 8:10 AM, Jack Napalm said:Wow! Nice work. How did you go about learning that craft?
I started online mostly. Did a lot of research. Started getting tips from a local boot maker who I’ve become friends with and now have access to additional equipment.
On 2/24/2020 at 11:54 AM, Riem said:Looks really good - are these as comfortable to wear too? Very neat!
They actually fit me very well!
On 2/23/2020 at 11:40 AM, JBW1 said:What???! I didn’t even know that was possible! Awesome !!
Well, there was a time people did this stuff by hand so I figured why not?!?!
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So, 10 months ago, I posted my first leather project... a pair of engineer boots. I didn't expect to end up with something I could wear and didn't care about the mistakes in stitching, pattern, etc. However, the end result was something unexpected and so I decided to do it again, this time with better materials, more care, a better pattern, etc.
So, here are the results. My engineers, version 2. Very happy with how they turned out.
- Brown Horween Chromexel Horsebutt
- Japanese buckles
- Neoprene soles with Catspaw heels
- Unstructured toe
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So, 10 months ago, I posted my first leather project... a pair of engineer boots. I didn't expect to end up with something I could wear and didn't care about the mistakes in stitching, pattern, etc. However, the end result was something unexpected and so I decided to do it again, this time with better materials, more care, a better pattern, etc.
So, here are the results. My engineers, version 2.
- Brown Horween Chromexel Horsebutt
- Japanese buckles
- Neoprene soles with Catspaw heels
- Unstructured toe
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Thanks!. Working on my next pair!
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Thanks for the positive comments.
Regarding the things I had the most difficulties with, I think it was translating what I see in my existing boots to patterns that might replicate and tweak what I wanted. In the end, I learned that it was important to get this right in order to properly last the uppers. Additionally, I'd say once the uppers were all put together, the need to build the soles was intimidating. That's when I reached out for help. I was lucky in that the bootmaker I reached out to was impressed enough that he went completely out of his way to help, even supplying the soles and heels to get the job done... at no cost, other than a bottle of scotch (and he poured me some of his scotch and beer too).
With all that done, my plan is to tweak my patterns and perfect my next pair. I already have some Horween horsebutt and Japanese buckles all ready.
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45 minutes ago, arashikage said:Nice work!
Where did you get the lasts from?
Jones and Vining
https://jones-vining.myshopify.com/
They have many more options and can guide you if you send them photos of what you’re trying to make.
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2 hours ago, GregS said:So where does one buy soles? Care to point to some resources that you found helpful?
Because it was a “learning” project, I just bought them on eBay of all places. Think they’re the same ones as on Amazon. The leather really isn’t anything special. If you have a local leather supplier, they probably carry what you’d need.
As for resources, I found this one helpful:
I’d also research the various types of sole construction as there are many for different applications. I ended up using something different from the one shown in the link.
Current harness boot project
in Shoes, Boots, Sandals and Moccassins
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Ha. No... but I've actually thought about it! Just a lot of expensive material to screw up on! LOL!