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I'd suggest using neatsfoot oil over the dyed leather, let it the leather soak up as much (almost) neatsfoot oil as it will take, work the leather to confirm that it is softened it up a bit, then use a matte sealer to seal the leather. My (limited) experience is that an oiled, but unsealed leather will bleed on other items, if rubbed. Mike LoGiudice LoGiudice Custom Knives

Great!! Thanks a lot, this helps a bunch. I think I can work out how to do something similar, by adapting what was posted. Mike L.

Can anyone please point me to a tutorial or post which may give me some guidance on how to do a rolled edge on some pieces that I am creating with 7-8 oz tooling leather? The method obviously employs a lighter piece of leather for the edging, and either a piping or leather strip for the filler of the rolled edge. Yet, can anyone here share or link to a "best practice" method of hand sewing the rounded edge onto the base leather and successfully meshing it seamlessly with the liner? Thanks in advance. Mike L. My Knife Maker Site

One last question: Would there be anything wrong with me using a second piece of the 7/8 oz. veg. tan tooling leather as the backing, rather than purchasing some latigo? I could stain it, seal it, and use neatsfoot oil on it. Thanks again, Mike L.

First, it sounds like I should thicken it up considerably. I'll get some latigo and glue and stitch it to the back. This is one of those wide noseband halters that will be given to a young girl who is just getting into riding and barrel racing. She's only about 8 years old, and if it gets used, it will be for a regular horse. Thanks for all of the replies. Mike L.

All, I am really new to leather working. I've made and stamped about 12 knife sheathes, and am very pleased how they have turned out. I'm progressing to more detailed stamping and dying techniques. This time, I have almost got myself over my head though. I am making a tooled bronc halter for a friend's daughter as a surprise. I am highly impressed by how well it has turned out so far, thank you Al Stolhman and your "Craft Tips" book. Anyway, I've made this bronc halter with 7/8 oz. leather. It will have a couple of rivits in it for decoration. I feel that it my need to be thicker for practical use, and also may need to be lined/backed in order to keep the rivits off of the horse's nose. I am thinking of contact cementing a layer of oil tanned buckskin onto the back of the tooled and finished veg tanned halter. Is this a bad idea? I thought that I would seal front and back when complete. Thanks in advance for any replies, Mike L.

I make knives. I don't see why you couldn't use an exotic stainless like ATS-34. When properly heat treated, it should hold an edge longer than most carbon steels. Rather than ATS-34 you should use 154 CM which is the American equivalent of ATS-34. Better yet, is CPM 154 CM. Here is a description from the Crucible Steel spec sheet: Crucible 154 CM is a modification of 440C martensitic stainless steel to which molybdenum has been added. 154 CM has better corrosion resistance, better wear resistance and better hot-hardness than 440C. For knifemakers, it offers better edge retention than 440C. It also has higher attainable hardness and better through hardening characteristics than 440C. And even better than that is CPM S30V. It is very difficult to grind and polish after it has been heat treated, so most work must be done prior to heat treating. Here is a summary from its spec sheet: CPM S30V is a martensitic stainless steel designed to offer the best combination of toughness, wear resistance and corrosion resistance. Its chemistry has been specially balanced to promote the formation of vanadium carbides which are harder and more effective than chromium carbides in providing wear resistance. CPM S30V offers substantial improvement in toughness over other high hardness steels such as 440C and D2, and its corrosion resistance is equal to or better than 440C in various environments. These steels can be purchased from Admiral Steel. A direct link to their price list is HERE. Take care, Mike L