ScottEnglish

Aven: Thanks for your response. I didn't realize wet leather is susceptible to damage. Makes sense really. I'll do some reading about different types of leather to see if I can find an alternative for my moccasins. Matt S: Thanks for telling me more about your boots. Very helpful. I don't mind admitting my ignorance: I didn't know about brain-tanned leather. So thanks for that also. Scott

Alaisiagae: Thanks for mentioning the milled vegetable-tanned leather. I'd not heard of that before. chuck123wapati: Thanks for your reply too Chuck. I may be wrong, but I suspect that here in the UK moose, bison, deer, and elk leather is hard to obtain. Matt S: Do you think Matt that your boots might become more supple with further use? I'm loath to give up on my idea. Thanks. Thanks again to you all. Scott

Hello again. I'm ready to make another pair of moccasins. So far I've been using chrome-tanned leather but I'm thinking of trying some vegetable-tanned leather for pair number four. They'll be unlined so I want to use thicker leather to prevent excessive stretching. I'll also be using the same piece of leather for the soling which I want to be reasonably thick. Consequently, I intend buying leather that is 8 to 9 ounce in thickness. I'm hoping I can wet the leather if necessary to make it more pliable during assembly. What do folk think of this idea? Scott

Thanks RockyAussie.

Thanks for explaining what block out means jcuk. I'll try moulding some of my chrome-tanned leather and see what happens. Scott

Thanks jcuk. Does block out mean moulded?

Thanks for posting more information Handstitched. Scott

Thanks for your post Matt S. At present my only option for moulding leather is water, so in view of what you've said I'll try moulding some of my chrome-tanned leather using hot water.

Danne: Thanks for the video. RockyAussie: Your reply is really helpful, thanks.

Before buying some vegetable-tanned leather for moulding I may try using the chrome-tanned leather that I possess. I'm wondering if anyone has actually tried moulding chrome-tanned leather? Did it work? Thanks. Scott

Squilchuck: John, thanks for your reply. Dwight: the vacuum pump method sounds interesting, thanks for mentioning it.

Thanks for the detailed response Handstitched. Your shared experience is appreciated. Scott

I want to try wet moulding 9 oz or 10 oz leather. Anybody here have experience of doing this? If so, what have you made? I'm seeking an understanding of the possibilities and limitations of leatherwork in this area. Ta. Scott

Thanks for all the replies. battlemunky: I'd not considered that 1/4" thick leather might have its drawbacks. Thanks for making that point. fredk: Thanks for the details of leather thickness in the different shoes you've made. chuck123wapati: Thanks for mentioning other leather types. toxo: Thanks for the information. Frodo: Thanks for the photos.

Well, I completed my first pair of moccasins. See earlier threads. No photo I'm afraid as I don't own a camera nor a phone. I've decided with future pairs to use thick leather for soles, I've seen such moccasins for sale on the other side of the pond, and would appreciate some information about the suitability of leather for soling and also what type of leather I will need. I'd like the leather for the soles to be about a 1/4" in thickness. Is my understanding correct that chrome-tanned leather by its nature would be too thin so I'll need to use vegetable-tanned? Thanks. Scott

Thanks for your comment alexitbe. It's worth my knowing that thicker vegetable-tanned belly leather is used for insoles. I appreciate your mentioning this.

Thanks again LatigoAmigo for your input. To my novice eyes the quality of the leather on the side looks equal all over! So much to learn. There are no stretch marks near the belly edge as chrishash mentioned but he did say normally there would be rather than there definitely will be. Ferg, thanks for your comment as well. The leather side I bought apparently varies from 1.5mm - 2.0mm so the thickness, it's chrome tanned too, should be fine for making footwear. Scott

Any thoughts on using belly leather for insoles?

Thank you chrisash and LatigoAmigo for your replies. Your agreeing about which edge of the side is the belly edge gives me confidence to start cutting leather. I'll unroll the side shortly and check for stretch marks too for further confirmation.

Well, I decided not to proceed with making a pair of shoes of moccasin construction but to begin with a pair of moccasin slippers instead. For varied reasons I've been delayed in making a start and am only now ready to cut out the pattern in leather. I've encountered a problem though with the side of leather. I don't know which part is the belly! Not having a camera or phone I can't take a photo so I'll describe it as best I can. The side is approximately 5 feet square. Three of the edges are fairly straight. The other edge is wavy with two eye shaped holes. The edge that is straight and opposite the wavy edge has its corners mitred several inches in. Which side is the belly? By the way, I'm thinking of using some of the belly leather for insoles for the slippers. They'll be glued in so hopefully won't stretch. What do folk think of this idea? Is it good or bad? Thanks. Scott

Oops. Looks like I have finally found the answer myself. One seller is recommending a side with a smooth finish as being suitable for footwear. Any advice will still be appreciated though. Bye for now. Scott

Hello again. Having met with an encouraging response to my first topic I thought I'd ask another question that I can't find an answer to. I'm going to buy some chrome tanned leather for making my first pair of shoes. However, I don't which hide part to purchase. Does it matter? Thanks. Scott

I've just checked the thread I started and see there's several more posts. I'll respond to each one individually. Aven: My first pair of shoes will be of moccasin construction. I won't be using lasts. chrisash: Thanks for mentioning the lip knife. Some of the other respondents to this thread have also mentioned the suitability of this type of knife. arashikage: I'm pleased you commented upon the rasp. I don't want to be buying tools needlessly. HaloJones: Another knife user. Seems this is definitely the way to go then. gmace99: Thanks for the water tip. That isn't something I would have thought of doing. Thanks again to everyone. Scott

Thanks for your contribution Aven, it's appreciated. I will try your technique. Yes, I can see the importance of a sharp knife. Before starting on my first pair of shoes it's my intention next week to learn to sharpen my knives. I hope you have a good year. Scott

Thanks for the reply kiwican and best wishes for the new year. I hope your satisfied with your shoes once you've made them. Anybody else willing to share their experience of shaping crepe or rubber soles with just hand tools? Scott