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sandmanred

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About sandmanred

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  • Location
    Minnesota
  • Interests
    Just getting started with heavy sewing and leather

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    Sewing machines
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  1. Awesome! Thanks for the suggestions and specifics. I need to digest it all a bit to make sense of it but I think I get most of it.
  2. sandmanred

    132K6

    Price reduced to $600
  3. I made this wallet of 2-3 oz veg tan. It's way too thick and stiff to be of any use. I did make a practice one of much thinner leather. I could see the leather for this one was thicker but didn't anticipate how much it would add up in thickness. It's way too thick and stiff to be of any use. I could see it part way through but decided I could learn something by finishing it even though it's pretty much worthless as a wallet. What leather would you recommend for this style and where would you get it?
  4. @destes do you have any numbers cast into the bottom like mine? I'm bound and determined to figure out this numbering scheme.
  5. I hope I'm not hijacking conversation but I've got the same machine and question about it's vintage. It looks roughly the same as both of the previous machines in the post. My Pfaff 545 has a similar riveted tag below the model number and no serial imprinted on the casting, there's a 'plaque' in the casting but it's got nothing there. The riveted tag has similar 6 digit number, 511968. There's some numbers on the bottom of the casting but I can't make sense of them.
  6. One thing you can try with the clutch motor is to oil the clutch plate. If you open the clutch there's usually a metal plate and a cork face plate that one of is actuated by the foot pedal. Soak the cork side with sewing machine oil for a few minutes and wipe off the excess. Be sure to just do the clutch side, there's usually a brake that engages by the return spring for the foot pedal, you want to leave that part dry. Oiling the clutch has improved low speed control for me on a number of machines and I have always been able to get full speed as well.
  7. There are some pretty good videos on youtube that show you how to time a machine. You should be able to find specifics to your machine in a manual for it. But I think the general points on a rotary hook are the same. You want the needle to lift a specific distance before the tip of the hook crosses the needle, and you want the hook to cross about in the middle of the scarf. And you want the hook to come as close to the needle as possible without touching. Here's one from @Uwe Even if you can't find the specifics for your machine it's not a big deal. I'd guess on your model you want to needle to lift about 2 mm or 3/32 at the time the hook crosses the needle. I've found the distances they spec to be a little difficult to measure and I will still sometimes deviate a bit to get it sew nicely in forward and reverse. I
  8. I'd start by increasing the top thread tension, it should help pull the knot up tighter.
  9. sandmanred

    132K6

    If there's a shortage it can't be from them wearing out :-)
  10. One suggestion for your clutch motor speed control is to actually oil the clutch. If you disassemble the clutch and generously wipe the clutch cork with sewing machine oil it will improve low speed control. Just don't oil the brake side cork! I've done this on my last few clutches and it improves low speed control significantly.
  11. sandmanred

    132K6

    Here's examples of the size of thread this machine can run. I think it is well suited to run T-90 to T-350 and maybe one size bigger. Home machine sewing thread pictured for reference.
  12. sandmanred

    132K6

    For sale $900 Saint Paul, MN Singer 132K6 heavy duty industrial straight lock stitch walking foot (kicking foot) sewing machine. Table is 20 x 48 inches. Includes 132K6, knee lift, bobbin winder with original mount, clutch motor, thread stand, original operating manual and reprinted pdf of operating manual. Stitch length adjustable from approximately 10 to 2 stitches per inch or 2 mm to 12 mm. Approximately ½ inch clearance under the presser foot. This machine has very large bobbins and is well suited to thread from T90 to T350. Speed reducer provides improved low speed control and increased torque to penetrate heavy or tough material. Speed from 0 to approximately 500 stitches per minute. This is a heavy duty machine, the head alone weighs 90 pounds! The pictures show a typical home sewing machine needle next to the size needle this machine runs. Accessories include 8 bobbins, original operating manual, many needle sizes for both leather and cloth, extra presser foot set. I have fabric and thread for demonstration or bring your own fabric and thread up to T350. It is currently in a garage where the temperature is about 50 degrees. Link to a short video in operation; https://youtu.be/ddTrJkpMfns Cash only. Delivery negotiable.
  13. After more digging around I think I have the oiler figured out, at least partially. I removed the little cylinder under the shut off valve thinking I might find a seal of some kind. There's nothing under there! The oil well has no outlet under the cylinder. It creates a pumping action by the way it vibrates when the machine runs. I think my leak was coming from the cylinder being set too close the wall of the well, I believe capillary action was drawing oil up to the wick regardless of the valve or whether the machine was running. That was adjustment number one, set the gap between the cylinder and the wall of the well. It's set so the cylinder is roughly concentric with the wall. That stopped the constant leak. Adjustment 2 was to tweak the spring to just suspend the cylinder above the well bottom by a mm or two. This lets it bounce and provide pumping up to wick when the machine runs. video of oiler in action The other problem of the needle bar hitting the presser foot I solved by going to a 190 needle, it's about 4 mm longer and provides the clearance to set the presser as high as possible.
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