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About sandmanred

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    Just getting started with heavy sewing and leather

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    Sewing machines
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  1. Not sure on that model but every industrial Singer I know it's a little over a half inch, my caliper says 0.545 inch. I made a larger pulley for my 31-15 of aluminum that replaced the hand wheel. It worked great to slow it down but unfortunately it threw it off balance at higher speeds because the hand wheel has a counter weight built in that I ignored when I made my oversized pulley. My solution since has been to turn an over size pulley that bolts on the the hand wheel. The add on pulley leaves the handwheel in place so it doesn't throw off the balance at higher speeds. It requires a large bore in the add on pulley that pilots on a surface where the belt normally rides. Once fitted I drill and tap into a meaty part of the handwheel to fasten the over-sized pulley with a screw or two. The pic below is a 78-1 that I added this pulley but I also have it on my 31-15 and a Consew 28. In the case of the 78-1 I was able to pilot the add on pulley on the right end, the nub that sticks through provided enough of a shoulder to center the add on pulley.
  2. I've re-furbished a few Singers and have I find there are many screws that are not readily available through other sources besides exact replacements. The pitch will be a standard pitch but the diameters are often non-standard. In many cases where a head is washed out I TIG weld a blob on top of screw and grind it round again then cut a new slot with a hacksaw. Once the blob is welded on I chuck the threaded end gently it in a drill and re-shape it on a grinder, spinning the screw slowly in the drill.
  3. Great! My needle bar might be a tad low by that 3/32 standard but there's plenty of clearance to the body on top at the top of stroke running the needles I pictured in the post above.
  4. It might have been my 31-15 or another machine but I've had a needle bar scarred up too and resist moving after the set screw is loose. I recall doing something along these lines, put a soft metal spacer between the body where the set screw goes and the casting below, then tapping on the top of the needle bar. I still didn't hit it very hard but once loose I was able to extract it out the top and file the burrs back to smooth. The spacer transfers the tapping force to a beefier part of the body and keeps any forces off the linkage connected to the needle bar but still go gently!
  5. I have a 31-15 and think it's great. There's tons of them out there and you can still get most of the parts you'd ever need. I don't think you'll get a 135x17 to run as it's probably too long. I didn't try but I did a quick length comparison I think by the time you get the eye where you need it for hook timing you'll be crashing the needle clamp into the body at the top of the needle stroke. Here's a picture of the needles I run below. They are cheap and readily available on ebay. A suffix of LR indicates for leather. I don't see a bobbin case or bobbins in your pics. I think it's a class 15. You should be able to get from ebay pretty easy. You just have to watch the little arm that comes off the case to keep from spinning, I had to trim mine shorter for it to fit. If it was heavily used you'll probably have to replace the hook and the little pin you will find inside the tension assembly. If worn the hook won't run smooth, you'll be able to tell by the sound. Also check it for any burrs or sharp edges where the thread slides on it. The new ones I got on ebay have both needed some filing on the end opposite the hook to get them to fit. There needs to be a little play between the hook and hook driver to let the top thread pass. The little pin in the center of the tension assembly pushes the outer disc out a bit when the presser foot is up. They get shorter with wear and stop working all together when worn too. If your tension stays high when you lift the presser check this first. I also agree on getting the smaller pulley on the motor, I run a 45 or 55 mm drive pulley. I also added a pulley the fits over the stock handwheel that increases the diameter to about 5.5 inches. That gets me down to as low as about 1 stitch per second.
  6. To your question about round needles in leather, maybe okay if it's soft leather but if its hard leather probably not so well. The leather needles I've seen have a wedge or chisel shape that cuts through tough leather. I just tried a round point vs a leather on some veg tan leather that is about 3/16 inch thick. The round needle took a lot more force to punch through and then actually pulled out of the needle bar on the very first up stroke. The leather needle punched right through and sewed without a problem.
  7. What's the best kind of grease to run on the miter gears that drive the rotary hook?
  8. Here's a picture of what I meant. You can see the original point the connecting rod attached on the right. And you can see the blank hole to the right of the current attachment point, I tried it but it was too short. You can see ended up about midway between the original point and the axle. My connecting rod is adjustable in length so easy to adjust to accommodate the connection point changes.
  9. I'm facing the same challenge of speed control on a clutch motor. In asking around someone suggested greasing the cork on the clutch. I was reluctant to try it because it's not easy to undo but I went ahead anyways. I polished the metal face of the clutch and put a light coat of grease on cork and it does help get a bit more control. The other thing that help is to modify the linkage from the foot pedal to the clutch motor. Either extend the lever on the clutch motor or shorten the foot lever throw. Looking at your pics a new hook on the foot pedal about half way between the axle and the existing rod that connects to the clutch lever would be a good start. This shortens the throw at the clutch to give a bit better control as well.
  10. I just picked up these machines and both have only 1/4 inch welting feet. Any body know where I can get set of regular feet?
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