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sandmanred

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About sandmanred

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  • Location
    Minnesota
  • Interests
    Just getting started with heavy sewing and leather

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    Sewing machines
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  1. I had a 78-1 for a while. No service manuals. I disagree with the Singer literature. These are not lightweight machines. Needle size to 25, 1/2 inch under the presser foot, large heavy handwheel, 3 stitches per inch. Simple and reliable yes, light weight no. Have fun with yours!
  2. Do other owners of the Consew 255RB-3 use the semi-automatic oiling system? I filled my reservoirs yesterday and left the little knob on top in the off position. The machine is sitting on a metal workbench. The upper reservoir pretty much emptied itself overnight. There was an oil pad in the drip pan that was saturated when I got the machine. I'm thinking I'd just go to manual oiling but wonder if others have had this problem and what they did about it? The other question is about the presser foot lift. There's lots of literature that quotes it at 9/16 of an inch. I can get close to that at the upper lever position but then my needle bar interferes with the outer foot when the presser foot is up at the low position. To avoid this interference the highest I can go for presser foot height when up is about 11 -12 mm. I just got the timing dialed in to sew well so I don't want to believe my needle bar is too low but that's all I can think of. Any merit in switch over to a 190 needle size to provide clearance. Thoughts? Thanks
  3. I had the Consew 18 for short while but I'm pretty sure it will handle T135 all day long and I think I even tried some T210 with a 24 needle but had a modified needle plate to allow the bigger needle to pass. 92 should be no problem.
  4. Here's a link to a manual. Consew keeps a good library but I also use manualslib.com I had one that I got from a musty basement. Rusted solid when I got it. Brought it back to life and it worked great. I think it runs up to a 23 needle? About 5 stitches per inch max. The needle it specified was not a easy one to find now but a needle bar adjustment let me adapt it to a readily available needle. I think it offered a differential feed, so you could over or underfeed the top layer of fabric relative to the bottom. It didn't do anything for me so I just ran the top and bottom feeds synched up. http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/18.pdf
  5. The hook was grabbing the loop as it as it should in both forward and reverse. However, in reverse it snagged the loop that's just about to knot with the bobbin thread on revolution that's it not supposed to grab anything. Most of the time after a few stitches in reverse ehe hook breaks the needle thread and keeps on sewing leaving two ragged tails on the bottom. Other times it breaks it and stops sewing. I did also find a manual for my model. The needle and hook had correct clearance. There were a couple of discrepancies between the Consew and Seiko manuals so in the end I followed the 255RB3 manual. I think my biggest problem was not using anything to estimate the needle rise and the hook to eye distance. I found a 2mm shim to help estimate the distances better. I set it up to the manual and then retarded the hook just a bit, as far as I can tell anyways. Runs good forward and backward across all stitch lengths. Thanks both Uwe and Don for your help!
  6. Thanks. That makes sense. I noticed that the needle position where the hook is supposed to catch the loop shifts a bit towards the operator a bit when you push the reverse bar. I was looking for some adjustment(s) to make the needle position front to back when the hook engages the loop exactly the same in forward and reverse but I can't figure it out. As the needle is a bit closer to me when in reverse I'll time retard the hook a bit from where it is and see how that goes.
  7. I think I have followed all the procedures to get it timed right per the manual. It sews great forward. But the hook is snagging the loop as it closes on the pass that it's not supposed to do anything when in reverse. It will stitch a bit in reverse but doesn't sound as good and usually within a few inches it snags. Suggestions on what to look at?
  8. It kind of looks like the it's a spring issue. It's been a while since the machine was used or oiled. With a little oiling the problem got better, it only bobs occasionally above a stitch length of 9 mm and even then it's sporadic. I can easily hold the lever up and it stitches fine and doesn't make any awful noises.
  9. I just picked up a the machine from a Craigslist ad. It supposedly had just been serviced with a new needle bar, hook and tension assembly. It wouldn't make a stitch when I got there but it helped me make a better deal. I've resolved most of issues that I detected and have it stitching again but there is something not right with the reverse lever. Anytime it makes a stitch anywhere between 7 and 10 mm it bobs down and back up right as the needle approaches top of stroke. I'm getting reasonable close to the correct stitch however it is a bit short. It did not go beyond 7 mm when I got it. I have it going past that now but I must have missed something in the procedure to have the reverse lever bobbing like it does. Any insight on what to check is welcome. Thanks!
  10. I've also noticed that when my Pfaff with a rotary hook was a little out of time it was much more prone to this problem. It is much less prone to it now that I re-timed it. The hook was a little more advanced that it was supposed to be and would just snag the loop from the top as it was being pulled in the revolution that it's not supposed to catch anything.
  11. sandmanred

    Thread

    I've bought bonded nylon and polyester from them. They were willing to send samples when I needed a color match.
  12. @Uwe Thanks! Where did you get the plastic banding? That looks great!
  13. The Consew was purchased rusted solid on a sketchy home built table with rusty steel legs and a rough plywood top. I scrapped the top and got a solid core door slab and remodeled the steel from simple square design to a trestle with better knee clearance. The foot pedal was a leftover from a 132K6 foot lift that I removed and replaced with a knee lift. The Pfaff is in a table I made using 2 layers of plywood and a laminate top and an aluminum base. I had 2 inch square aluminum leftover from another project and only had to buy a few more feet to make this base. I thought the full width foot pedal was a good idea at the time but now that I've had it for awhile I don't think it's any better than a normal one. The table end showing in the last picture has large wooden pads with those plastic glides attached. The makes it's fairly easy to slide it around the room if needed.
  14. My gears from ebay arrived today. All I could find was the upper gears but these are identical other than the bore on the horizontal shaft is 0.500 instead of 0.370. So I made a bushing to make up the difference. I got it running and with a little trial and error got it retimed. Everything is so quiet now. I'm running a hypoid gear oil instead of grease, it's nice and thick and clings to the gears without slinging off. What do you run on gears like this? Shown without cover in place to show the bushing on the one on the left.
  15. I have a 31-15 and I really like it. It's can handle about 1/4 inch thick work and the manual claims up to a #23 needle. Though with a simple mod (drill out the need plate) I can run up to a 25 needle though I can tell it's really pushing the machine. I've slowed mine down with pulleys and added servo motor. I never got used to the roller foot. I like to run a teflon one most of the time. I've run from T90 to T210 on both top and bottom. Though the T210 is really limited on the bobbin due to the short lengths you can wind. Parts are available and it's a really solid simple machine. I've also lengthened the stitch length a bit by opening up the adjustment slot, I can get to almost 4 stitches per inch. It should do great with the boat canvas as long as you can get by without reverse. I've done a little large canvas work and I usually lock the stitch by spinning the workpiece 180 degrees so it's a little more work when the workpiece is large but it works. There's such a wide range of thing folks want to do with leather it's hard to say if it will meet your needs there but if you stay under 1/4 thick it should work for you.
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