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  1. Forgot to mention that it'll mostly be used to sew leather wallets, bags, and thick canvas fabric products.
  2. Hi All, I really want to purchase a flat bed machine. I've narrowed it down to these two that seem to be sold by the dealers in Sweden. The price is about the same for both machines here. And I really want to purchase the machine new locally in Sweden so I can get support in case I have issues with the machine and avoid business down time. Which machine would you choose and why? Thanks. Vimal.
  3. I don't doubt that the 1541 and 1541s is a horizontal axis bobbin. I'm wondering if anyone knows anything about this version X55245 which seems like a new version of the 1541 type machine.
  4. Thanks @kgg I think in that case the 1541s would actually be more suitable.
  5. Hello, I would like to add a juki flatbed machine to my shop and I had a few questions. I wish to make leather bags, belts and wallets with vegetable tanned leather. The leather thickness and thread is generally as below. Belts: around 7 - 7.5mm (two layers of 3.5 - 4mm) with thread size 15/3 or even 10/3 if possible Bags: around 4 - 5mm ( two layers of 2 - 2.5 mm) with thread size 20/3 Wallets: around 2.2mm (two layers of 1.1mm) with thread size 30/3 or even 40 But I'd be quite ok with a sweet spot between thread size 30/3 and 20/3 with occasional one size thread up (10/3) and down (40/3) on either side of the sweet spot. I have narrowed it down to the JUKI DNU-1541S sewing machine firstly due to its price and easy access to third party accessories. Will this machine be a good fit for this purpose? I also see that there is a machine called JUKI DNU-1541/X55245. I understand that this machine is basically a 1541 with modification for thicker thread. But will it work well with the 30/3 thread or say a 40 thread? Also my thinking is that the usual 1541 will run on its max limit Vs the x55245 will be somewhere in the middle and not pushed so hard. Is that the right way to think? Which machine amongst these two will work best for my needs? I unfortunately don't have access to a JUKI dealer close to where I live in Sweden and I'll be buying it from either Hamburg, Germany or Poland. Thanks. Vimal.
  6. I found this in the 2021 catalog. It seems there is a machine called DNU-1541/X55245 which is a modified 1541 for thick thread. It can go up to thread Nm 8/3 !!
  7. Hello All, I was just browsing JUKI site and came across the Juli DNU-1541 picture with the hook part looking similar to the 1508 machine. I.e. on vertical axis. Is this really true or is it that the photographer or rendering guys went a little too creative :-)
  8. Hello All, I'm debating if I should get a second hand 8 year old JUKI original machine or go for a copy machine. Actually the Juki is about £500 cheaper than a copy machine. However the copy machine comes with a speed reducer, edge guide and some more accessories. My real concern is that 8 year old machine starts to give issues sooner than a new machine. But also I know there are 50-60 year old machines that are still working. What do you think? Is it a good idea to go with a Juki original? It's selling for lower than half of its original price if I were to buy it new.
  9. Absolutely @DonInReno!! I'll just try and experiment and see which needle works based on the stitch consistency and look. Hopefully I can continue to use 140 needle that works very well today.
  10. So I was at the technician today and the machine seems to be working quite fine so far. Touch wood :-) The first thing he noticed that the hook was too far away from the needle. So he had to push the hook to the left so the hook was almost touching the needle to pick up the thread loop. I think that was the one that actually fixed the issue with uneven stitches. He also thought my bobbin tension was a tad bit loose so he tightened it. He also adjusted the presser foot which was not on level with the center foot when the needle should just enter the leather. His suggestion was also when I use 2 layers of 10oz leather to use 160 needle for the 92 thread. And 140 was fine for thinner leather. Before leaving he also taught me on the process of setting tension. His suggestion was that I set tension such that I see the bottom thread popping up on the top and then loosen it until it disappears enough into the leather. All this is probably basics but for a self taught person I thought it made a lot of sense. And this structured way of setting tensions was very good tip to follow. I came home and did very fine adjustments to make sure that the thread was leaving the throat plate smoothly. This made turning the flywheel a little easier. Moral of the story for me was N E V E R apply force on the machine when the thread and material is jammed. But I guess I learnt a lot from all you guys about adjusting the timing, needle to hook relationship, thread path on the throat plate etc in the process. In the end it was about $150 worth of lesson :-) Thanks a lot @Uwe for patiently helping me on this issue and replying to my queries so many times.
  11. I had one question about the machine set up that I have now. The guys I purchased the machine from say that the machine can definitely sew 135 thread. So I read through the manual again and I noticed something strange. The bobbin case latch on both the ls-1340 as well as ls-1341 are pointing down. On my machine it's pointing up. Is that strange?
  12. Hi Uwe, I will not do an upgrade of the hook system. I guess in that case I'll have to sell the machine. However, I have advanced the hook timing and it definitely is stitching better. When I stitch straight I'm getting a very consistent stitch. On curves where I turn the flywheel by hand, the stitch gets all wonky. I am guessing this time it's the man behind the machine that is the problem. Is there a specific technique to do turns and sharp corners without missing the tensions?
  13. I guess that's the right thing to do now. It seems we've tried enough. Now let the repair shop try. I'll be going the week after next. I'll update here. But I really hope this machine can handle 135 thread easily otherwise, I'll ask them to order the parts for the 1341 machine and install that. I counted from the parts manual and it's about 13 parts. I can say enough how grateful I am for all the help I've received so far. Thank you.
  14. I've more or less got the machine to be where it was before. Hook timing seems to be ok Bobbin case opener a little better. But the same problem persists. I'm really curious if all parts that are listed in the parts manual need to be for 1341 to use the 1341 hook? Could it be that the machine actually is a 1341 but just has the wrong hook? The company specifications says the following. Cylindrical lockstitch machine with compound transport and high walking foot. The model is destined for medium and heavy sewing. Compound transport, large stroke of needle bar and foot lifting to 16 mm facilitate technical sewing. The hook is larger about 30% and it is especially useful in case of technical sewing with thick threads. The diameter of cylinder is 72 mm. There is energy-saving motor which saves even 70% of energy. For this model of machine JUKI parts are suitable. We offer assembled, ready to work set including: head, motor, top table and stand, a drawer, additional accessories, operating manual Technical parameters Type of stitch Flat lockstitch Type of transport compound Direct drive no Maximum length of stitch 9 mm Maximum speed 2000 spm Maximum foot lifting 16 mm Stroke of needle 36 mm Size of hook enlarged Lubrication open System of lubrication manual Automatic needle positioning no Automatic thread cutting no Automatic foot lifting no Automatic bartacking no Automatic walking foot no Automatic wiper no Automatic nipper no Control panel no System of needle DPx17 Thickness of thread #10 Clearance under arm 260 mm Built-in LED lamp no Controlled by smartphone no
  15. I also notice that when the bobbin case opener is put in the right place more or less the machine jams somewhere and I can't rotate the flywheel further. Is the bobbin case installed wrongly?
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