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palvim

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About palvim

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  1. It's an Adler 267-373 machine.
  2. I think it is in the setting that completes the stitch. If I press the pedal once, it'll go all the way up, then all the way down and then tiny bit up (after the hook has picked up the bobbin thread). Was that what you meant?
  3. I think the bobbin screw for adjusting tension is correct. As the tension on straight stitches is correct.
  4. I've tried to stitch without lifting the presser foot and it doesn't help. Not pulling top thread at all. I have needle positioning system. So at the curve I do one stitch at a time. This system takes the needle up a tiny bit and stops. I turn the leather a bit. Next stitch. And so on.
  5. Hello All, Can anyone please point me in the right direction? I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong at the corners that the stitch gets bad. I've tried to stitch over the curve without lifting the presser foot as well as by lifting the presser foot after the stitch is slightly up from all the way down. Nothing seems to work.
  6. Forgot to mention that it'll mostly be used to sew leather wallets, bags, and thick canvas fabric products.
  7. Hi All, I really want to purchase a flat bed machine. I've narrowed it down to these two that seem to be sold by the dealers in Sweden. The price is about the same for both machines here. And I really want to purchase the machine new locally in Sweden so I can get support in case I have issues with the machine and avoid business down time. Which machine would you choose and why? Thanks. Vimal.
  8. I don't doubt that the 1541 and 1541s is a horizontal axis bobbin. I'm wondering if anyone knows anything about this version X55245 which seems like a new version of the 1541 type machine.
  9. Thanks @kgg I think in that case the 1541s would actually be more suitable.
  10. Hello, I would like to add a juki flatbed machine to my shop and I had a few questions. I wish to make leather bags, belts and wallets with vegetable tanned leather. The leather thickness and thread is generally as below. Belts: around 7 - 7.5mm (two layers of 3.5 - 4mm) with thread size 15/3 or even 10/3 if possible Bags: around 4 - 5mm ( two layers of 2 - 2.5 mm) with thread size 20/3 Wallets: around 2.2mm (two layers of 1.1mm) with thread size 30/3 or even 40 But I'd be quite ok with a sweet spot between thread size 30/3 and 20/3 with occasional one size thread up (10/3) and down (40/3) on either side of the sweet spot. I have narrowed it down to the JUKI DNU-1541S sewing machine firstly due to its price and easy access to third party accessories. Will this machine be a good fit for this purpose? I also see that there is a machine called JUKI DNU-1541/X55245. I understand that this machine is basically a 1541 with modification for thicker thread. But will it work well with the 30/3 thread or say a 40 thread? Also my thinking is that the usual 1541 will run on its max limit Vs the x55245 will be somewhere in the middle and not pushed so hard. Is that the right way to think? Which machine amongst these two will work best for my needs? I unfortunately don't have access to a JUKI dealer close to where I live in Sweden and I'll be buying it from either Hamburg, Germany or Poland. Thanks. Vimal.
  11. I found this in the 2021 catalog. It seems there is a machine called DNU-1541/X55245 which is a modified 1541 for thick thread. It can go up to thread Nm 8/3 !!
  12. Hello All, I was just browsing JUKI site and came across the Juli DNU-1541 picture with the hook part looking similar to the 1508 machine. I.e. on vertical axis. Is this really true or is it that the photographer or rendering guys went a little too creative :-)
  13. Hello All, I'm debating if I should get a second hand 8 year old JUKI original machine or go for a copy machine. Actually the Juki is about £500 cheaper than a copy machine. However the copy machine comes with a speed reducer, edge guide and some more accessories. My real concern is that 8 year old machine starts to give issues sooner than a new machine. But also I know there are 50-60 year old machines that are still working. What do you think? Is it a good idea to go with a Juki original? It's selling for lower than half of its original price if I were to buy it new.
  14. Absolutely @DonInReno!! I'll just try and experiment and see which needle works based on the stitch consistency and look. Hopefully I can continue to use 140 needle that works very well today.
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