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palvim

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  1. Yes. It seems there is another spring that is adjustable for the center foot (see image. The screw is pointed with red arrow). I'll make that as loose as possible too. I have also been using the D point needle which probably makes bigger marks. I'll use the LR needles which should cut more smoothly. I'll try these two things and let you all know how it goes. Thanks for the help so far.
  2. Hi Wizcraft, Correct me if I'm wrong. The top part looks ok. That's where I've made the springs loose for the presser feet as well as the center foot. The bad part is happening I guess due to the feed dog (under the leather being stitched). Did you mean there is some spring also for the feed dog or some way I can make it loose?
  3. Hello All, I've purchased a LS-1341 type machine and trying to get it dialed in perfectly. I am not sure however why this happens on the underside. Please see the images attached. I've loosened the presser foot tension to its highest position. Any more turns and it'll pop out entirely. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Vimal. And here is the problematic underside.
  4. Thanks Uwe! Is the red arrow on your diagram pointing to the exact place in my diagram?
  5. Hi All, I have purchased a LS-1341 type sewing machine. Everything works really well. The only thing that is annoying me is that the forward and reverse stitch lengths are not the same. I looked in the engineering manual and they have a picture and steps but I don't really understand where this part is on the machine. Could you please take a look at the pics from the engineering manual and steps i have attached here and guide me where this is to be found? Would be even better if someone could take a picture on their actual machine to show which part. Thanks a lot, Vimal.
  6. With my very little knowledge of sewing machines, is it correct to assume that Juki LS-1341 a cylinder arm version of Juki DNU-1541S ? Reason I ask is that I wish to do lighter weight projects like wallets and bags. And wonder is these machines are essentially the same in terms of capabilities, I could go with 1341 and build a good flat bed attachment to essentially have only one machine. Please advise. Thank you.
  7. Just wondering if there is any video or resource to do a complete overhaul of such type of machines. Would help a lot.
  8. I don't think the motor is working. I tested it. I've purchased a small 90w replacement motor for one of them. It's the one which comes in a box without the table. If it works fine for sewing small thin leather items like wallets with 3-4oz X 2 then I'll probably get a bigger motor for the table version machine to sew canvas bags. In the manual it says it can take needle size 140. That means thread size 92 could be just fine.
  9. I totally agree with RockyAussie. I have a CB3200 and I would like to do the same and do bags. If you use 6oz leather and skive them, with the smallest thread (138) possible you really need to get the tension right otherwise it's easy to get the loop showing on front or back. I would much prefer to work with thread 92 or even 69 for bags and purses. Thread 92 is a good size for bags. Unfortunately, neither the cb3200 or cb4500 will take it unless you "dumb" it down. Don't know about you but I don't dare to make any changes to the machine. Especially since I run a company and would hate down time.
  10. Thanks guys! I actually bought 3 of these machines. Two were manual with tables and one was in a box with an electric motor. All looked very good. I'll probably try and service them all. Keep two and sell one ahead. I reckon with the age it's better to have some spare parts. I'm wondering if anyone has some idea or some pointers on how to service them on your own. Also, is it possible to change the motor to a slow speed home sewing motor that could be suitable for light leather work. Which motor would that be? Thanks.
  11. Hello All, I'm wondering if anyone knows anything about this machine? I found it in a second hand shop near me for sale for only $25. They have 2 of these. Can it do light projects like leather wallets? Thanks Vimal.
  12. Hello, I wish to be able to sew leather wallets, leather and canvas bags, and leather belts. In the future, I'll also want to do binding to the bags and make leather gloves. I currently own a Cowboy CB3200 which I want to set up for thread 138 which I guess should be possible without "dumbing" down the machine. This should take care of my belt needs. I'm torn between a flatbed or a lightweight cylinder arm machine that'll do threads 69-138 comfortably. I've narrowed it down to the following machines. All clones. 1. Pfaff 335 clone (https://www.olimasz.pl/en_GB/p/Cylindrical-binder-lockstitch-machine-OLISEW-OL-335A-with-compound-transport/649) It'll do light weight leather, canvas and comes with binder. I was told converting from binder to normal compound feed is easier on this machine. I'll buy the parts to convert to normal machine without binder. This is the cheapest option which I like. Question 1: will it be possible to sew wallets with 3 layers of 4 Oz leather with the machine set for binding? Or it will be needed to be set up as a normal machine without binder? Question 2: will it be possible to sew canvas bags with machine set for binding? Or will it be needed to be set up as a normal machine without binder? 2. Juki 1541s (https://www.olimasz.pl/en_GB/p/Lockstitch-machine-OLISEW-OL-1541-with-compound-transport/648) More comfortable to sew wallets and canvas bags (Flatbed). Can do threads 69 to 138. I've seen cheaper binders for this machine too. 3. Juki 1508 (https://www.olimasz.pl/en_GB/p/Lockstitch-machine-OLISEW-OL-1510N-with-single-needle-and-compound-transport/632) I see most professional small leather businesses that I follow use this flat bed machine. May be a better machine than the 1541 and not a huge price difference to the 1541 clone. 4. Juki 1342 (https://www.olimasz.pl/en_GB/p/Cylindrical-lockstitch-machine-OLISEW-OL-1342-with-compound-transport/676? Question: Is this machine a cylinder arm equivalent of the Juki 1508 flat bed in terms of sewing capabilities and engineering? A bit more expensive but I can manage. Is it a best option to get this and make a flat bed attachment for it? This could be a do it all machine and I could sell my cowboy cb3200. Only thing it'll not be able to do binding. But I can live without it and make design changes to my products. Am I thinking right? Is it best to go with Pfaff 335, get a flat bed attachment and then I get all I need in combination with my CB3200. Or go with a dedicated flatbed. Or get the 1342, build a flatbed and sell the CB3200. Thanks in advance for your opinions.
  13. Frank mentioned the jerky motion of leather is because the needle is too small for the thread. It is true I'm running one size smaller as I don't like the big holes :-). So the lockstitch is getting stuck in the tiny hole until the thread is pulled again. Hope that helps.
  14. All right guys I managed to fix it. Had to speak with Frank Brunnet from whom I had purchased the machine. Please see the video on what to do. And in the end I say you need to move. Basically you loosen the screws. Keep your Allen key in one screw, turn the hand wheel 2 minutes (super tiny angle like 2 minutes on a clock) then tighten and check if the front and back stitch goes in the same hole. If not, keep adjusting it in both directions. I didn't have to do much. Thank you Wizcrafts for the alignment of the needle, feed dog and presser foot instruction. That's what Frank was getting to as well.
  15. The inside foot touches slightly before the needle touches the feed dog level. Is that correct or does the inside foot and needle has to touch the feed dog level at the same time? And then the feed dog goes back. Sorry for asking so many questions. As I don't know what is reference point of perfect movements. Could anyone be so kind and record their feed dog, inside foot and needle movement in relation to each other on the CB3200? Thanks a lot! It has always jerked a little. Don't know if it is right but it is definitely not new.
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