Chris623

Thanks, Gary. I don't presently own an airbrush. I've used them and understand their use/purpose. I think you mentioned previously your floor finish and distilled water trick. Does that result in a pretty glossy finish?

New at all of this, but at this point, I use Bag Kote as my final finish on things like knife sheaths. I've used brushes, T-shirt material wrapped around my finger and, God forbid, Wool dobbers. But I'm wondering if any of you use an artist's air brush. I'd think they would come in handy to do shading and final finish applications. I used to use one to do fade-shading on Cellos and Basses when I worked as a wooden instrument repairman. I've seen pictures of sheaths and holsters that appeared to be shaded. So what do you use to apply a finish coat on your projects?

I would appreciate that, YinTx. Out of the 20 stamps I presently have, luckily, I only have 4 "Z" tools. A friend gifted me my starter set of about 5 stamps, I think it was, and they were part of that set.

Hmmmmm. Hadn't really considered that. Certainly capable of making them.............I've made a lot of stamping tools for wood carvers. But I really don't want to take the time to do that. But it's a good idea that I might seriously consider.

Yup. Had that link saved for a long time now. Beautiful tools. Very pricey tools. Higher than Barry King's tools. Out of my range at this point.

I'm trying to gather stamps. Getting a pretty good assortment, but I only have one smooth beveling tool !! It's a Z B157 from Tandy. Any recommendations as to a 3 or 4 basic smooth beveling tool set to get started?

Thanks, Scootch. Big difference between Tandy's "bargain" leather and the better Herman Oak....................at least to my eye.

Thanks JSage. I'm sure that's good advice. I'm still spending hard-to-acquire money on tools and supplies. I've got enough of this Tandy Shoulder for several projects.........even some paying ones...........so I see better leather in my future, just not right now.

Thanks, battlemunky. I never really thought about it that way. I'll just have to keep practicing. You are correct, though, in that my smooth beveling is much cleaner. I just thought I'd cross-hatch bevel this one because I was planning on cross-hatching the background. My idea was to blend the two together. That idea didn't come to fruition. Hopefully they'll get better. And, yes, the antlers were the best part of my work on this one. Thanks for noting that.

Thanks.................at least people can identify that it's an Elk!

Thanks. Those were things I was aware of. Haven't figured out how to get rid of that choppy look with my beveling yet......but I'll get there.

One of the subjects I teach in my wood carving classes at the local Vo-Tech is Low Relief. So when I finally got around to looking at the Figure Carving forum, it was obvious I had to give it a try. So this is my first stab at trying to create a low relief in leather. Oh..........and I'm painfully aware I carved a "handicapped" Elk. He's missing his left front leg. I was so caught up in what I was doing, I left that out of the picture. Be kind, this was my first try.

Thanks for that. I've been taping................but haven't then glued it to a card stock backing. Nice suggestion.

Thanks, tsunkasapa. I just ordered this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C86H7NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ordered the 1 pound size. I think the weight is distributed a lot differently than my maul and think the pivot point will be different, making it feel less heavy. We'll see. If it's not what I need, I'll offer it up for sale.

Hmmmmm. You're the first person to suggest Belly leather.

wet Indeed it does. And I agree, and always have, that true casing produces better results than just wiping. Thanks. Watched the video and it seems I'm with Chuck much of the way, but not all. First off, I didn't know about the liquid soap or mouthwash trick. I think he said "just a spot". (that's about as ambiguous as my Grandmother's "pinch of salt" in her recipes!) Any suggestions there would help. I've been using the 10-15 second "swim" for my leather, so same there. The next step is where I've failed miserably. I've just been waiting until the surface of the leather turns back to near it's original color to start tooling. Chuck says to place it on a non porous surface and cover with smooth glass for 24 hours. One thing he didn't cover was how long to wait to start tooling after removing the glass. ??? Then he recommends using Saran Wrap to cover the areas not being tooled. I thought it interesting he mentioned by casing this way he gets about 2 hours of tooling time. I've never achieved that. Question: So as not to lose the depth of tooling, how would you come back the next day and re-wet to start tooling again? Just re-wet the area you want to work on with a sponge? Oleskiver, I "think" my cuts are deep enough, but when I asked for a critique on a small feather I tried, it was suggested I cut a tad deeper. ("tad". Now isn't that like a "pinch"?) Rahere, I've been searching on the Internet watching all these videos. Came across a fellow who was beveling with a 4 oz leather Polypropylene mallet. (or could have been Polyethylene, not sure.) He said he'd learned that he could bevel to the depth he wanted with on hefty whack from a 2 pound mallet or "machine-gun" type light taps from a 4 oz mallet and get the same results. He claimed the benefit was he could light tap for hours and not tire his arm and wrist............unlike wielding the heavier mallet. I spent some time before turning out the light last night looking for lighter mallets and mauls. Any thoughts there you might share?

No. I'm just starting. Have only purchased one shoulder so far and only made two sheaths out of it.........plus a few little test pieces out of the scraps. This shoulder was from Tandy. As soon as I can gather up some money, I'd like to order a Herman Oak Shoulder.

"Kids................" indeed. Never had any of my own. Was a school teacher...........that was enough for me. Latest little wife came with a daughter, son-in-law, 3 grandchildren and now 2 great grandchildren. Love'em all. Guess I should have had kids!

Well, like I said, I've tried everything I can think of...............and just wiping with a sponge as you suggest has been one of the methods. Yours is the exact method I've been using on an Elk carving I'm working on.................and I can't seem to get a good separation between the subject and background because I don't seem to get my bevels deep enough. Frustrating.

I've read everything I can find and watched all the videos on Youtube about casing I can stand. Sounds so danged simple. But I either start stamping before it's dry enough or wait too long. Here's my take on it. Submerge leather in a tray for 10 seconds and lay aside. If I'm not going to get to it until the next day I put it in a Ziplock bag. Anywho, when I pull it out, I wait until the top of the leather looks as close to dry leather as possible. (takes a lon-n-n-n-ng time!) Then I start stamping. I don't typically get the nice burnished look that I see on most everyone else's work I see on Youtube. Sometimes I do, sometimes not. If I get a nice deep bevel, I find later it is rising back up. (I assume that means the leather is too moist) If I wait longer to start, I don't seem to be able to get as deep a stamp. I'm using a 1 pound wooden wood sculpting maul as my hammering tool. Don't know if that has anything to do with my results. If I wait long enough for the color to be close to dry leather, I have to keep a spray bottle nearby so I can re-wet it. I know I'm doing something not quite right, but I just don't know what it is. Wish one of you more experienced guys could stop by and sit down at my bench and mentor me through the process. Anything in my description of the process that sounds out of kilter???

Now you know why the mother bird kicks the babies out of the nest.....................the chit keeps piling up until there's no room for anyone!!!!!

Well, with my income, "taking one for the team" is not something I can afford to do. That's why I'm trying to get some first hand information on it.

Anyone? Price seems like something I might be able to afford. Just don't know about the quality or lack thereof!

I just stumbled across this. Anyone have one or know anything about it? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Leather-Peeling-Machine-Skiver-Peeler-Splitter-Skiving-Paring-Machine-DIY-NEW/274540115359?hash=item3febddb59f:g:ElYAAOSwC6NfjVXv

I pulled the finger cradle off and the top of mine was flat...............but I polished and oiled it anyway. Works great.