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Hello all, I've been looking for an industrial zigzag passively for a while and came across a nice Singer 107W5 recently. This seems to be a less common variant of the 107 based on limited posts here and elsewhere. Canvas, straps, upholstery and marine are the majority of my fiddlings. In the manual I noted the following: "Drop feed; positive reciprocating feed slide under presser foot and above the work. Translation please? It seems to be a top side walking foot sort of thing that is sync'd with the feed dogs -- I'd guess. I'd assume better multi-layer feeding is the big advantage -- which sounds great - but are there downsides to this setup? does it help/hurt over lumpy bumpy thick seams, etc? How much clearance can I get under the foot? Is it a no brainer to setup/maintain? Parts issues or complexities? Does it restrict me in some way I'm not thinking about? Only other question might be if the stated 1/4" max zigzag width of the 107W5 is the "standard" amongst lower end industrial zigzag crowd and not worth looking for bigger? Often see 20U's out there as well. I'm not in a big rush and can keep looking but it's a good deal. Does anyone have perspective or experience with the 107W5 and its upper feed that you could share?

Vertiges, I ended up ordering this presser bar lifter and it is working just fine, although shorter than the original as I am told. https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/presser-bar-lifter-singer-202554.aspx

Thanks for the suggestions! Bruce

Good evening, I've finished up restoring my barn find Singer 211G165 and have begun practicing and experimenting with different threads and fabrics. Upholstery, canvas, and small leather items are on the docket. Can anyone suggest a good source for small size spools (i.e 2oz) of V69, V92, and V138 bonded polyester thread? I can find thread of course but at this stage I don't need 7500 yards of each thread and color -- that may not even work well for me. I will be starting with small projects and just don't need the big stuff for now. Suggestions for where to buy small?

The spring simply holds the eccentric plate in place. I have seen or heard someplace that the typical position of the collar is flush with the end of the flange's sleeve. The collar has 2 set screws that hold it in place as you can see in your picture. I would suggest using a pair of sturdy needle nosed pliers with tape on them so as not to mar the shaft. Compress the spring to the left using the pliers behind the collar. Hold the collar in place with the pliers on the shaft flush with the end of the flange sleeve -- as you use the pliers to hold it in place, tighten the set screws. Were you able to inspect that the pin is in tact?

To inspect the pin as mentioned above, you shouldn't need to disturb the shaft. The ring should slide to the right on the shaft right where it is - though it might be snug. No need to remove it unless you need to change the part. I would not touch the shaft at this point until you are certain it is necessary.

<< Is this the pin you are talking about? >> Yes that is the pin. While you have that assembly apart you might slide the eccentric ring to the right and see if the pin is properly in tact. The ring is a tight fit but hopefully will slide easily enough with a wiggle. At least that will answer that question. It should look like this....

Parfektionisto, Thanks for the clarification . The only way I can imagine that this would occur as you describe, is if the pin follower in the eccentric assembly failed or sheared off. This pin follows the channel in the eccentric ring to cause the eccentric slider to move and change the amount of eccentricity (and stitch length). When the pin reaches the end of the channel at either end it will be the end of the adjustment and it should stop. If the pin is gone I would imagine that you could keep spinning it. Uwe made this very helpful video that shows the mechanism. At the 1:30 mark you can clearly see the pin that I'm talking about and how it mates with the ring. Perhaps it has failed or sheared away. Just one thought to try to help you out. Perhaps others may know of other ways that this could happen. Good luck.

Good morning, The handwheel is turning the shaft clearly in the first video - so I don't think it's the set screws there. You can see clearly in the first video that the eccentric adjusting disk (on the right with the spring against it) is turning along with the main flange (on the left with the screws in it). When the plunger button is pressed, the tip of the button plunger rod goes into the slot on that disk -- as mentioned and shown in your second video. But....when the button is pressed that disk then should not move when the shaft turns because the plunger in the slot prevents it. In the second video it appears to go in correctly, but you did not see if it will hold the disk from moving when you turn the handwheel. Replicate that video but turn the handwheel and see that the disk does NOT move. If it turns then your plunger rod is not holding it as it should. Perhaps the tip has broken off the rod so it does not seat as far into the disk's slot and won't hold? Or as Constabulary has mentioned you aren't pressing it firmly enough down into that slot. Or, if it is firm but pops out when you turn the handwheel, perhaps they are bound together with dried oil, or the friction plate screws on the side of the flange have been adjusted a little too tightly. Post a new version of the second video with the button pressed and in the slot, but turning the handwheel. Observe if the eccentric disk (on the right side by the spring) can be held in place while turning the handwheel. That is the goal. 2nd video: This looks good -- but see if the disk does NOT turn with the handwheel when the button is pushed.

Tonight I was finally able to resolve my issue with the stuck presser eccentric and wanted to complete this post for anyone in the future with a similar issue. Thanks to Uwe for his generous effort to make that awesome video snip so I could better understand what SHOULD be versus what I was facing. To address this I had to remove the presser eccentric assembly from the machine and then the arm shaft it sits on. See another long saga post nearby on that. I simply could not get he dial off of the flange while in the machine despite banging, prying, soaking with my entire chemicals cabinet, and of course flame torching it. I discovered that the primary issue with the stuck eccentric dial was not really dried oil - at least in the end. The flange's split collar that rides along the shaft-- that the dial also sits on -- seems to have expanded and the fit was so tight it flat out would not move - dried oil or not. You can see the very tight tolerance even in Uwe's video above. In the end - once out of the machine, I spent no less than an hour firmly and persistently tapping a fine bladed small flat screw driver into the crack to attempt to wedge them apart. It finally moved a very small amount and I continued this with one then two then multiple screwdrivers all around the perimeter for a full 60 minutes making miniscule progress along the way. Note that it must stay square along the shaft to move. Finally it's off. I will need to clean up and dress this area and get it back in form before reassembly, but the metal was strong and stood up to some pretty hard beating both inside the machine and out. Wanted to share to hopefully help others in the future. Thanks again Uwe, Gregg, and Constabulary!! Parts diagram showing the split collar portion of the eccentric flange that rides the shaft, and that the dial slips over and on to. Items on the arm shaft removed - showing flange and dial still stuck together. And finally separated.

Well thank you to all who have provided great input and knowledge today. Coming off a total success for the issues I was facing. I went with Constabulary's recommendation to go ahead and cut the upper presser bushing and I have broken through the bottleneck and am back on track. Today's steps: - I was able to cut down the length the stuck upper presser bushing successfully and create room for the crank to pass and finally pull out the upper arm shaft so I could move on - checked for fit/free movement for my presser rod - still OK!! No damage after the "haircut" and all that banging and blow torching - finally got the arm shaft out and its attached components off including the stuck presser eccentric dial and flange - and FINALLY to the root issue behind all of this - get the presser eccentric dial separated from the flange to free up the eccentric mechanism. SUCCESS! In the process I have discovered that the needle crank friction/thrust washer cracked and needs to be replaced. Hard to find apparently - wondering of there is a suitable substitute with a modern material like a sturdy oil resistant nylon washer or something like that. Input is welcome and needed !!. Also I discovered that the primary issue with the stuck eccentric dial was not really dried oil - at least in the end. The flange's split collar that the dial sits on seems to have expanded and the fit was so tight it flat out would not move. I will update my previous post requesting help with this with those observations. Thanks again to all who are helping me out . I took pics t give back - hopefully they can help another person in the future. Ready to cut the bushing - trying to keep metal shavings rom getting into the machine. After the cut - filed the burrs down later. Crank and shaft coming out and just squeaks by the freshly cut upper presser bushing Here's a look with the crank and shaft removed. Shaft out showing the components The eccentric dial is still stuck hard to that flange... Checked the fit and free movement of the presser bar -- Looks great. An FINALLY got that %$^#!!*& eccentric dial freed and separated after another hour of effort. More work here before reassembly.

Love the screw refurb video thanks DonInReno! So far getting them out -- to be refurbed -- is the toughest challenge I've faced. Thanks MK10 or letting me know that the bushing is not upside down. This was driving me nuts The parts diagram shows it inverted for some reason. I did try a full map gas torch on it to see if that would help and it did not unfortunately. At this point I'll likely proceed to cutting it per earlier input from Constabulary. All of the tinkering with it may have knocked it out of true. As a backup I may drill or cut & chisel it out of the mounting hole and mount a new 111W bushing -- secured with a set screw this time!

Wow I could try that. Thanks for the detailed suggestion! I'm surprised that it's pressed in. There's no set screw there...so... I agree on the heat but unfortunately I've had no luck with it on the eccentric disk or the main crank set screws. I've been using a small butane pencil torch to keep the flame focused and localized. There's a ton of oil and PB blaster I'm afraid will catch on fire. -- but I guess I can take it outside and bring out the big dog and use a map gas torch. Constabulary I am also measuring just under 13mm (12.58mm) on the upper presser bushing - .495" (1/2 inch -- I'd hope that would be a nice standard value to use). The presser rod measures .340 in or 7/32" (8.63mm).

OK that's where I'm leaning. I'll keep the group posted. If it fails, I'll get it out the brute force way, and replace it with a 111W upper presser bushing. I have seen them online (but not the 211G bushing for whatever reason). Anyone know a good source for the 211G bushing? I'd rather stay original if possible. Also, here is the procedure from the 211G165 service manual that I've been using that led me to the frozen presser eccentric disk. Let me know if I'm missing something. Thanks again for your response and input!

Thanks Constabulary -- I'm working to get the upper shaft out to remove the presser eccentric to free the ring from its flange -- which is also flat out stuck (covered in another post a couple days back) -- which is making it impossible to adjust the outer presser foot lift. I agree with you and I'm being as careful as I can and this is what's behind my questions to the forum. So far PB Blaster soaks, acetone, mineral spirits, tapping, and torch heat have had limited effect for me on this machine for some reason. If I can find a suitable upper presser bushing replacement I will consider something more aggressive - cut it or sacrifice it and get it out. But no -- I certainly prefer not to take this path. Do these upper bushings typically slide out more easily once the set screw is removed? I suspect this one was put back in (upside down?) and press fit somehow. Does anyone know if the needle bar is the same diameter in the 111/211 family (or clones) which might give me some options for an upper bushing replacement? I am challenged but enjoying the journey! Thanks all and please help with your perspective and knowledge!